What additions are you making to your 2020 firewooding arsenal?

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So this rectangular block with all the hoses going into it is an addition to your tractor? What are the pieces with wires attached? Solenoids?

That is the distribution block I would say. The ports on the left side are the in/ out from the tractor. The middle ones run up to the quick connects at the front of the bucket. The ports covered by the orange plugs are the extras I can use for another implement. Those are solenoids, controlled by the buttons on the handle.

Ask away, I'm figuring it out.

Shea
 
So where is the diverter valve?

What he pictured is the diverter valve. An existing circuit on the tractor, either lift or curl if you're using the joystick, gets interrupted by this valve. On my tractor I used the lift circuit. When the solenoids aren't powered, the flow goes through the valve like it isn't there. When you energize them with a momentary switch, it diverts the flow to the auxiliary ports.
 
So a switch diverts the fluid pressure from tilt or lift, to the thumb. Then you can work the thumb clamp/unclamp lever. Then you have to switch it off again to be able to use the original function. I’m catching on.

My tractor mechanic friend hadn’t mentioned this option, he was talking about where to take fluid off of the control valve, and run it to another valve. He wasn’t sure if the fluid would still be under pressure where the return line attaches to the control valve. I suppose we could get it where the supply line attaches.

6C05DBDE-8DD4-47AD-A0F1-42DB92832323.jpegA555442E-2B37-4214-9489-1BF16A46F620.jpeg
 
What he pictured is the diverter valve. An existing circuit on the tractor, either lift or curl if you're using the joystick, gets interrupted by this valve. On my tractor I used the lift circuit. When the solenoids aren't powered, the flow goes through the valve like it isn't there. When you energize them with a momentary switch, it diverts the flow to the auxiliary ports.

He is much better than I am at explaining it than I am. Mine is plumbed into the bucket tilt circuit. On my controls the yellow button is the momentary switch for that circuit. Hold it in and left/right opens/closes the grapple. Using it to grip then let go and curl it to get in a better position to grip tighter. Just jog between the two to get it the way you want it. For me bringing it down from above allows me to get a better grip on logs. As I grip from that position I keep curling under as I try to grip tighter. Hopefully I haven't grabbed too much at that point.

Shea
 
So a switch diverts the fluid pressure from tilt or lift, to the thumb. Then you can work the thumb clamp/unclamp lever. Then you have to switch it off again to be able to use the original function. I’m catching on.

My tractor mechanic friend hadn’t mentioned this option, he was talking about where to take fluid off of the control valve, and run it to another valve. He wasn’t sure if the fluid would still be under pressure where the return line attaches to the control valve. I suppose we could get it where the supply line attaches.

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I think what you're talking about is using a "power beyond" port on your valve if there is one. That's what you'd do if you were plumbing in a true third function instead of a diverter. I have only super basic hydraulic knowledge, so I couldn't look at your valve or machine and know what I'm looking at. That's part of the reason I went with a diverter. Basically you can put a the physical diverter anywhere you can reach it with hoses and wiring. I actually just zip tied mine to the loader arms.

And yes, the valve will hold pressure in either circuit when it's not in use. So, you can use the grapple to grip something, then release the momentary switch, and the grapple will stay gripped while you use the regular loader functions. It will release only when you push the switch again and use the joystick to retract the cylinders.
 
I picked up a MS460 that was straight gassed. Looks like it was worked hard but taken care of. I was able to save the cylinder. New piston, clutch cover, clutch springs, all new rubber parts, new 24" bar and chain and a tune up. I'll post pics when I have it done. I'll have a MS180C, 026 and MS460. I guess I've been bitten by the chainsaw bug!
 
I built a couple bunks for my equipment trailer. Beats fighting logs between the fenders.

4a5eaf38d20746574a54ac261db4dbd2.jpg
 
This is something I've been needing to do for a couple years now.

I picked up 6 20' sections of 6" x 4" wide ibeam for $75 some time back. Originally I was going to build a dedicated log trailer. This was cheaper and only used 2 pieces of ibeam.
 
I built a couple bunks for my equipment trailer. Beats fighting logs between the fenders.

4a5eaf38d20746574a54ac261db4dbd2.jpg
I like that alot, but alas, that wouldn't solve the second part of the equation for me. I wouldn't have a way to unload them once i got them off the mountain. My plan B so to speak has been to relieve my friend of his hydraulics box on his dump trailer to repair the spider web wiring disaster that someone did on it. That will solve my unloading issue. I just fixed my jeep trailer too, I should load a pic of that.

Shea
 
I like that alot, but alas, that wouldn't solve the second part of the equation for me. I wouldn't have a way to unload them once i got them off the mountain. My plan B so to speak has been to relieve my friend of his hydraulics box on his dump trailer to repair the spider web wiring disaster that someone did on it. That will solve my unloading issue. I just fixed my jeep trailer too, I should load a pic of that.

Shea

I built them to be able to roll logs off directly onto my staging table or onto the ground. The beams extend over the tires.

I got rid of the dump trailer because I always ended up picking them up to stack anyway. Might as well save the step and unload them directly.
 
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