What are you making with your milled wood?

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So what thickness is good for cookies? The ones I cut ranged from 36" x 22" to 28" x 25" and I cut them 12/4. Could I go thinner?
I wouldn’t go thinner- 3-5” is good. Timbor is borate powder which is different than boric acid. Wanted to test another carb on my 045 Super because the last one was low speed clogged, impossible to tune, so made a bunch of 15-20” cookies 2” thick out of my last ash stump. Not sure for what, Asian style thick round cutting boards maybe. Carb I put on seems to work fine, though seems to be one of the odd Tillotsons for that saw that is only set up to work w high speed jet screwed in closed. The other one was best at 1.25 turns out. This one is way too rich if you open it up at all. But idled great and is fine otherwise, so it was just the carb.
 

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I wouldn’t go thinner- 3-5” is good. Timbor is borate powder which is different than boric acid. Wanted to test another carb on my 045 Super because the last one was low speed clogged, so made a bunch of 15-20” cookies 2” thick out of my last ash stump. Not sure for what, Asian style thick round cutting boards maybe. Carb I put on seems to work fine, though seems to be one of the odd Tillotsons for that saw that is only set up to work w high speed jet screwed in closed. The other one was best at 1.25 turns out. This one is way too rich if you open it up at all. But idled great and is fine otherwise, so it was just the carb.
How does that 045 Super do? They were made in the 80's right? I see you have a few 80cc class saws to go along with the big daddy 880, nice!
 
How does that 045 Super do? They were made in the 80's right? I see you have a few 80cc class saws to go along with the big daddy 880, nice!
Yeah am kind of a saw millionaire right now lol. Don't have time to use them all nearly enough, and am not a collector really, they just keep adding up as things do. 045 Super was late 70’s, 056 Super was early 80’s. They’re largely the same saw but some bearings and a couple other bits were different. The two are Frankensaw hybrids of each other by now I’ve mixed parts so often. They’re great saws when you have them fixed up right. Has taken me years to get there, though. Don’t lose a whole lot to an 066/660. But even a clone 660 is probably a preferable milling saw because of the ease of getting OEM or clone 660 parts. The quirky ignition design is the famous problem it took me years to conquer for good. Only just now starting to use the 045 more regularly for milling, needed to get a proper working carb on it which took me a long time to get to because I have so many other saws to work on plus repairs brought to me, and my woodworking to do. Tons of power, more than I need for running any lo pro chain. Would like to run a 42" bar on the 056 Super with regular 3/8" in some form of skip and see how it mills.
 
Start of maybe a glass top table from a big ash root ball. Neighbor gave it to me a year or two ago and didn’t seem I could do a lot w it and was on verge of finally chopping it up for firewood when I decided to cookie it to 8” then take the Kutzall shaping disc to it to clean it up. I might also do something w resin, we’ll see. Has to dry for another good long while.
 

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Start of maybe a glass top table from a big ash root ball. Neighbor gave it to me a year or two ago and didn’t seem I could do a lot w it and was on verge of finally chopping it up for firewood when I decided to cookie it to 8” then take the Kutzall shaping disc to it to clean it up. I might also do something w resin, we’ll see. Has to dry for another good long while.
You have to resin fill that, it would look awesome! Won't it take an 8" thick piece like that a while to dry? We have little no no ash here in east NC, it's very rare. I live right in the middle of a 3 county area that is basically a giant pine tree farm lol. Ever considered making a small indoor kiln in your garage/shop to speed up the process for a few pieces?
 
You have to resin fill that, it would look awesome! Won't it take an 8" thick piece like that a while to dry? We have little no no ash here in east NC, it's very rare. I live right in the middle of a 3 county area that is basically a giant pine tree farm lol. Ever considered making a small indoor kiln in your garage/shop to speed up the process for a few pieces?
It’s been drying for a couple of years as a root ball but out in the weather so taking up rain too. So many cracks and holes in it, should dry faster than a solid cookie. I remember eastern NC as basically being all pine woods. Thought about a solar kiln for a long time, never gotten round to it. One day…
 
Start of maybe a glass top table from a big ash root ball. Neighbor gave it to me a year or two ago and didn’t seem I could do a lot w it and was on verge of finally chopping it up for firewood when I decided to cookie it to 8” then take the Kutzall shaping disc to it to clean it up. I might also do something w resin, we’ll see. Has to dry for another good long while.
I ran across this Red Elm stump cutoff out at the log yard. I'm considering making it into a end table. I'll have to level off the top first in place, then slab off a generous cookie. Only have a 24" bar. It's a section where 3 trunks came together. May fall apart.
IMG_2649.JPG
 
I ran across this Red Elm stump cutoff out at the log yard. I'm considering making it into a end table. I'll have to level off the top first in place, then slab off a generous cookie. Only have a 24" bar. It's a section where 3 trunks came together. May fall apart.
View attachment 1163275
Cookies are where you need the bigger bars. My 36” bar at 30” cut just squeaked around the narrowest part of the ash root ball. Only by rotating it a lot in one direction first then back in the other. That red elm stump looks fine. Has relieved tension from hole in center and cracking from there. Much more likely to break up if cracking was from outside in.
 
It’s been drying for a couple of years as a root ball but out in the weather so taking up rain too. So many cracks and holes in it, should dry faster than a solid cookie. I remember eastern NC as basically being all pine woods. Thought about a solar kiln for a long time, never gotten round to it. One day…
Look at what I just found. White oak! Look at that end grain. Gonna take home and cookie it. 35x22IMG_20240320_104418817_HDR.jpg
 
Look at what I just found. White oak! Look at that end grain. Gonna take home and cookie it. 35x22
Nice! Btw, for cookie sealing and end sealing in general, Klingspor's version of Anchor Seal seems like great stuff at half the price. Normally only $23 a gallon, it's on sale now for $20 or so. You have Klingspor stores in NC you can pick it up at so you don't have to pay the $9.99 flat rate shipping, but they're all a long way from you. They only let you buy 2 gallons at a time online, I guess cause the shipping costs them too much otherwise. I get all my sanding belts and discs from them and bandsaw blades and other things, and just learned they market Whiteside router bits (pretty much the gold standard) with their name on them since Whiteside is also an NC company. It's a good state to be in for woodworking. We only have a Woodcraft near me, which is generally overpriced stuff for the hobbyist brought to you with bored "I'm an expert" attitude from the staff, so I order everything online. A Rockler store apparently opened just down the street from me last year, I had no idea. They may be a bit better, but like Woodcraft their house brand stuff is generally mediocre Chinese quality and they don't bother house branding quality stuff like Klingspor does.

An old woodworker/fabricator here with a ton of knowledge I bought a cheap welder and some woodworking tools from turned me on to Klingspor. Bought this neat old device called a Mill-Route from him for $50, he didn't even really know what it was but had it laying around. Used it for a bit but it can only handle small projects and a small hassle taking the router on and off it, so haven't done anything with it for awhile. I just used it for flattening small pieces like a router sled, but it's meant for engraving. Would have been useful on the first name sign I did, but I just freehand traced that from a printout of the lettering taped to the wood. Want to set the Mill-Route up so I can do name sign engraving a little more cleanly though.
 
Nice! Btw, for cookie sealing and end sealing in general, Klingspor's version of Anchor Seal seems like great stuff at half the price. Normally only $23 a gallon, it's on sale now for $20 or so. You have Klingspor stores in NC you can pick it up at so you don't have to pay the $9.99 flat rate shipping, but they're all a long way from you. They only let you buy 2 gallons at a time online, I guess cause the shipping costs them too much otherwise. I get all my sanding belts and discs from them and bandsaw blades and other things, and just learned they market Whiteside router bits (pretty much the gold standard) with their name on them since Whiteside is also an NC company. It's a good state to be in for woodworking. We only have a Woodcraft near me, which is generally overpriced stuff for the hobbyist brought to you with bored "I'm an expert" attitude from the staff, so I order everything online. A Rockler store apparently opened just down the street from me last year, I had no idea. They may be a bit better, but like Woodcraft their house brand stuff is generally mediocre Chinese quality and they don't bother house branding quality stuff like Klingspor does.

An old woodworker/fabricator here with a ton of knowledge I bought a cheap welder and some woodworking tools from turned me on to Klingspor. Bought this neat old device called a Mill-Route from him for $50, he didn't even really know what it was but had it laying around. Used it for a bit but it can only handle small projects and a small hassle taking the router on and off it, so haven't done anything with it for awhile. I just used it for flattening small pieces like a router sled, but it's meant for engraving. Would have been useful on the first name sign I did, but I just freehand traced that from a printout of the lettering taped to the wood. Want to set the Mill-Route up so I can do name sign engraving a little more cleanly though.

He told me I could get as much as I wanted. So I'm gonna get a few pieces of thisIMG_20240320_114453858_HDR.jpg
 
Dang, some nice cookies to be had there. But always the greater tragedy the stuff was sawed into rounds before it could be milled as proper slabs. But it's a firewood operation, I get it.
Guess who the moron was that cut it into rounds??? Most of it was too big for me. But once I started chainsawing I saw that pretty grain and decided I was getting SOMETHING lolIMG_20240320_140851817_HDR.jpg
 
I ran across this Red Elm stump cutoff out at the log yard. I'm considering making it into a end table. I'll have to level off the top first in place, then slab off a generous cookie. Only have a 24" bar. It's a section where 3 trunks came together. May fall apart.
View attachment 1163275
Nice. Where the trunk separates always seems to make for some neat cookies. Even if it does fall apart, you just epoxy it back together lol. Some of this oak I picked up today had some splitting in the middle.
IMG_20240320_155425234_HDR.jpg
Nice! Btw, for cookie sealing and end sealing in general, Klingspor's version of Anchor Seal seems like great stuff at half the price.
Have you ever soaked them with that pentacryl (however its spelled) stuff? These 3 pieces filled my truck bed. IMG_20240320_155434029_HDR.jpg

If you were around here I'd tell you to come cookie up this massive piece of pecan!

IMG_20240320_151853102_HDR.jpg
 
Wow that monster pecan base is something. Bit of middle splitting is standard and actually gives you an excuse to drill out the pith some. Can always shape the center hole into the cracks before epoxy filling so it looks natural and not like a drilled hole. The pith causes most of the problem in any drying, slab or cookie. You always want that widest slab that has the pith in them thinking it's the highest value, but some people who know better don't even try to dry the widest center slab whole. The pith usually causes all sort of problems.

Never used Pentacryl, makes Anchor Seal look cheap. About $20 a gallon is all I want to spend, it takes so much coverage to seal pieces it goes quick. Realized my mineral oil and beeswax combo costs at least $30 a gallon to make up, so will leave that just for my fine finished work, not for sealing for drying.l
 
Wow that monster pecan base is something. Bit of middle splitting is standard and actually gives you an excuse to drill out the pith some. Can always shape the center hole into the cracks before epoxy filling so it looks natural and not like a drilled hole. The pith causes most of the problem in any drying, slab or cookie. You always want that widest slab that has the pith in them thinking it's the highest value, but some people who know better don't even try to dry the widest center slab whole. The pith usually causes all sort of problems.

Never used Pentacryl, makes Anchor Seal look cheap. About $20 a gallon is all I want to spend, it takes so much coverage to seal pieces it goes quick. Realized my mineral oil and beeswax combo costs at least $30 a gallon to make up, so will leave that just for my fine finished work, not for sealing for drying.l
So you're sealing up all your cookies after cutting them? I'd like to do at least some of this oak right. Probably be the last I mill for a while, firewood season is almost over, gotta go find a real job now lol. With shipping and tax 2 gallons of the Klingspor stuff is only $54, cheaper than anything else I've seen! Might order some to do this oak with, idk if it will be too late to do the pecan I milled last weekend? Doesn't sealing up the entire cookie like that take it much longer to dry though?

I've read about people soaking cookies in denatured alcohol, and it supposedly displaces the water, and then they dry really fast once you take them out. But I think that's only for thinner pieces, and requires a lot of alcohol! Another method involves cutting the cookies at a 30-45 degree angle, which increases the length of the grain in the cookie.

As of now I haven't made a point to saw around piths in my slabs, I have heard the pith slabs are aggravating though. Should I separate them from the stacks perhaps?
 
I’m waiting on mine to arrive to do any sealing on my cookies. I’m mostly concerned just w sealing really green wet ones. The ones I did from partially dry logs I’m not so worried about, though I want to do all the thin 2” ash ones ASAP. With cookies you do want to dry them as slow as possible, makes for less cracking. So sealing helps w that. Alcohol speeding up drying seems like a bad idea. You can also just let them crack as they may, and epoxy fill the cracks. I’m expecting cracks still, just want to keep them narrow as possible so the epoxy fills look more natural.

Some people think cookies are a waste of time, grain doesn't look as good, trouble drying, etc. I stayed away from them for awhile but am having fun with making more cookie tables lately. Slower growing and denser the hardwood, the cooler they look. Mesquite cookies are pretty awesome. Pecan, white oak, mesquite, live oak, all make pretty cool ones.

I've had a bit of bulging around the pith on some slabs but nothing too bad so I don't cut it out and hasn't ended up affecting the surroundings slabs too much. Thing to do might just be to cut a bit thicker a slab when doing the center pith one to account for it probably needing more leveling when dry
 
I'd like to know if your successful with the Ash cookies. In January, I dropped a very large, 30" plus diameter ash that EAB killed. Cut several cookies, at different times. 1st cracked within a week and continues to do so. The next several, through some very helpful members here suggested coating both sides. I used a water based ceramic roof coating. Cracked, but not as severe or as soon. Cut a 2 1/2 center hole in one, coated, so far so good. Last one I cut into a pie shape; 4 slices coated. As I cross cutting, it started to split, mildly, but hasn't advanced. Checks about 14% moisture content. Keeping fingers crossed. The above mentioned pieces are for a 9-year-old to paint, so appearance if reglued isn't an issue.
I did try cutting a slab. without a mill. Beautiful grain, but not very even.
Good luck!
 

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