What bar do you like?

[cookies]

Its the high output oil pump that came on the ms460r aka rescue. My original oil pump's case was worn out and lightly leaking causing oil build up on the case so it was time for replacement. It made a noticeable increase to oil volume output and noticeably deceased the bar/chains operating temps to the touch after heavy use.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

Its the high output oil pump that came on the ms460r aka rescue

Where can I buy that and is it a good idea to do so?

 

[wildwes]

What do you mean with the oil pump, is that an aftermarket oil pump?

He is probably talking about the high flow pump, I don't know the part number.
A 28" bar will likely have oiling issues with the stock 460 oil pump. Heck, even my 660 had issues with the stock oiler and a 28"
I swapped in an aftermarket (cheap) high flow oiler and now it oils like a champ, even with a 36"

 

[wildwes]

Where can I buy that and is it a good idea to do so?

Probably on ebay or many other places, and absolutely if you want whatever bar you buy to live a long and productive life.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

Probably on ebay or many other places, and absolutely if you want whatever bar you buy to live a long and productive life.

Damnit, even more costs lol

 

[cookies]

Where can I buy that and is it a good idea to do so?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3851104779...V+UKdJKnOhrg3Vxyvu/vifFkmy|tkp:Bk9SR_THhoj4Yw

1128-640-3250
I never disclose my saw building costs with my wife But once completed they are reliable and built to be the best.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/385110477940?itmmeta=01HZ081MFMK44C0FEY97P05QW6&hash=item59aa5f8c74:g:GGUAAOSwKjhjHb~m&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4FZ9qC4DEV0X4tTvnJhF7VRQznlGhtQjTHzj6Jxcue2MTcZIiiS84TmKFSb9rmWtECzaLqrHURpNWYpvf1Gqkicam83iFgZkR7MhQshDBq5VFcg2PyU68YKmpzzA6vI/6aonDFuf/PMc57mswX3UwGPj/wHZ613r7ZlRWisYkpA+sw7/wks21jvqemG/sN+TWz+dJVJRZw8u58ti/tn3SdOhNQ9oNaxYfyzuM0ZIdSLu0mYAT+4Z3hmtbziPUFfZsvONkOfs3zQB3Ub0W0V+UKdJKnOhrg3Vxyvu/vifFkmy|tkp:Bk9SR_THhoj4Yw

1128-640-3250
I never disclose my saw building costs with my wife But once completed they are reliable and built to be the best.

120 bucks, I understand why you don’t tell your wife .
I don’t have a wife but I do have my mom who finds it ridiculous how much I wanna spend on saws sometimes

 

[Stihlproincky]

120 bucks, I understand why you don’t tell your wife .
I don’t have a wife but I do have my mom who finds it ridiculous how much I wanna spend on saws sometimes

Yep, me too!

 

[wildwes]

Apparently the HO oilers aren't so easy to find aftermarket, unlike the 660. Sorry if I was misleading, I just assumed the 460 oiler was similar to the 660 oiler, which can be picked up for $25-$30 aftermarket all day long.

If you want to save money you could just replace the control bolt and piston, or modify the one you have.
Also, you might be OK on a shorter bar, like a 20" or 24/25" with the stock oiler turned all the way up.

Just food for thought, if you're on a budget.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Personally I like the Stihl ES light bars and I do think they’re worth the money, especially if you have a bad back. Having said that the ES bars are good, Tsumura, Sugihara, Oregon bars are very good as well. Stay away from the Chinese made bars.

 

[FXJenkins]

I like bars that give long pours.

 

[Sidecarflip]

I'm not particular so long as I can apply grease to the roller nose. Never had a Chinese bar though I do like Chinese beaneries.

 

[thompsoncustom]

Stihl, Tsumura, Sugihara all make great bars.

My brother has a Forster platinum bar which seems well made, says the rockwell hardness is 58 but he only has maybe a year of use on it so no idea on longevity. Would be my pick for a Cheaper bar think the 24in runs about 65 bucks.

I put Oregon Bars and China bars in the same category both seem soft and don't hold up well with heavy use.

 

[muddy42]

How nicely does that bar balance on your chainsaw?

Having run 18 to 28 (lightweight) the 20" rollomatic bar feels bang on ideal in terms of balance for my 460.

I agree with what other have said that the standard oiler can struggle with longer bars. I have had to clean all of the lines, replace the vent, pump, worm gear and its still at the lower end of what id call acceptable oiling.

 

[Sloughfoot]

I like tsmura and sugi-harra bars. Have several tsmura light bars in service. Nothing wrong with the normal stihl bars and the lights bars are very good too. Oregon bars are ok. No, point in busying 22 and 24/25" bars. 20 and 24 or 18 and 24 would be a better spread.

Yeh, Tsumara and Sugiharra are outstanding for the money
The Stihl ES Lights are significantly lighter but way more money and doubtful they last as long.
It appears Tsumara or Sugi are making a lot of companies bars for them.

 

[James Sawyer]

I am now planning to buy a 22” or 24” bar that’ll fit a Stihl ms462 or ms460 I know stihl makes bars but I also know stihl has a lot of different bars and there are a lot of other brands making good bars for stihl.

Any suggestions (please don’t suggest very expensive bars, I try to keep budget in mind a bit, unless you’d say it’s an actual very very fcking good bar)

Standard Stihl bar lengths for MS460 in a 3/8 drive are 20, 25,28,32, 36 inches. I mainly run Oregon or Stihl bars on my saws. The Oregon bars are good bars and are cheaper more available in my area then Stihl bars. If money is limited, I'd buy the Oregon bar. But... for the money the Stihl bars I think are worth it... especially the lightweight bars in the longer lengths! The saw balance is better and at the end of the day it's worth the extra cost for the lighter bars in 25" and longer bars. The lightweight bar life is the same as the steel bar in my opinion. The draw back on the lightweight bars is heavy handily popping the face out with your bar or if you hang you saw way out on your back cut while you wedge. The light bars can't take abuse like the steel bars. Personally, I've never seen issues with lightweight bars, I'm sold on them. I have a MS460 and run 32" .063-gauge bar never seen issues with that length on power if you keep your chain sharp. I bought my MS460 with a 28" .050 originally and change to the 32"...maybe saw a slight different maybe! Assuming your east coast running .058 gauge and a 25" bar that saw won't have any issues. Personally, I can't see why you would want a 20" on MS460. If it was me, I'd spend the extra $80 and buy the Stihl lightweight. But you should be able to pick up an Oregon bar for around $100 around here. You can save some cash by buying Oregon chain for that bar over the Stihl chain... Stihl chain has just priced me out for the performance different between the two brands. When cash is tight, I use to buy Oregon bars. Now, if I need to replace a bar... I buy lightweight Stihl bars ... it just worth the extra cash to me for extra work and energy saving at the end of the day. I sure there are cheaper bars, but I wouldn't know... I buy Oregon or Stihl bars both brands are good in my opinion. I do run Husqvarna, with OEM bars as well but haven't had to replace a bar on those saws yet, but when I do, I'll put a Stihl bar on... at least my Xp372 anyway. Keep your chain sharp, adjust your oiler tank for tank, flip your bar ever other sharpening, change your drive sprocket as needed (very important), and dress your bar rails you'll get a lot of life out your bars.

 

[sean donato]

Standard Stihl bar lengths for MS460 in a 3/8 drive are 20, 25,28,32, 36 inches. I mainly run Oregon or Stihl bars on my saws. The Oregon bars are good bars and are cheaper more available in my area then Stihl bars. If money is limited, I'd buy the Oregon bar. But... for the money the Stihl bars I think are worth it... especially the lightweight bars in the longer lengths! The saw balance is better and at the end of the day it's worth the extra cost for the lighter bars in 25" and longer bars. The lightweight bar life is the same as the steel bar in my opinion. The draw back on the lightweight bars is heavy handily popping the face out with your bar or if you hang you saw way out on your back cut while you wedge. The light bars can't take abuse like the steel bars. Personally, I've never seen issues with lightweight bars, I'm sold on them. I have a MS460 and run 32" .063-gauge bar never seen issues with that length on power if you keep your chain sharp. I bought my MS460 with a 28" .050 originally and change to the 32"...maybe saw a slight different maybe! Assuming your east coast running .058 gauge and a 25" bar that saw won't have any issues. Personally, I can't see why you would want a 20" on MS460. If it was me, I'd spend the extra $80 and buy the Stihl lightweight. But you should be able to pick up an Oregon bar for around $100 around here. You can save some cash by buying Oregon chain for that bar over the Stihl chain... Stihl chain has just priced me out for the performance different between the two brands. When cash is tight, I use to buy Oregon bars. Now, if I need to replace a bar... I buy lightweight Stihl bars ... it just worth the extra cash to me for extra work and energy saving at the end of the day. I sure there are cheaper bars, but I wouldn't know... I buy Oregon or Stihl bars both brands are good in my opinion. I do run Husqvarna, with OEM bars as well but haven't had to replace a bar on those saws yet, but when I do, I'll put a Stihl bar on... at least my Xp372 anyway. Keep your chain sharp, adjust your oiler tank for tank, flip your bar ever other sharpening, change your drive sprocket as needed (very important), and dress your bar rails you'll get a lot of life out your bars.

20" is pretty standard on a 70 ish cc saw in east coast hardwoods. I quite assure you it will fall flat on its face with a 28" buried in white oak, hickory, locust etc. It's definitely an area/species dependant thing for how long of a bar is too long.

 

[thompsoncustom]

I sold a 660 the other day to a logger that said he was only going to run a 20in bar on it not that we have anything hard enough to warrant that but hey different strokes for different folks I guess.

 

[donmakesallthefuelbegone]

I sold a 660 the other day to a logger that said he was only going to run a 20in bar on it not that we have anything hard enough to warrant that but hey different strokes for different folks I guess.

I don’t get why you’d buy a 660 and just put a 20” bar on. Sounds like a waist.

But hey, not my saw, not my money so not my business

 

[wildwes]

I don’t get why you’d buy a 660 and just put a 20” bar on. Sounds like a waist.

But hey, not my saw, not my money so not my business

In the hardwoods we have here, a stock 660 is about right with a 25"-28" bar. It'll do a 32" or even 36", but you aren't going to be winning any speed contests