What Do I Need? Bucking my first log load.

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Charity cuts coming up:
- Missouri - Mansfield April 4th & 5th, May 2nd & 3rd POC - Workshop - To keep up to date:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oklahoma-ar-mo-ks-tx-gtg.158438/page-1225#post-4752691
- Iowa - Waukee May 17th POC - Mr & Mrs Sam-Tip - To keep up to date:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/charity-cut-waukee-iowa.252536/page-2#post-4753347
- Wisconsin - In planning stage, watch this site for information:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...otas-gtgs-thread.231778/page-152#post-4753803

GTG up coming:
- Iowa - 3507 V Ave, Chelsea, IA 52215 April 25th (trip to McCulloch chainsaw museum in afternoon) & 26th - To keep up to date:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/midwest-sawfest-ia-mo-spring-gtg.249173/page-39
 
take a course, read everything you can, learn from someone who knows...only you know which works best for you, but do one of those three. and for heaven's sake, don't be in a hurry...or get frustrated...just roll with it. like has been said, those logs ain't going anywhere, so try to be smart about this.

at the end of the day though, you'll have to just get started and learn from your mistakes...so make small mistakes and be patient. good idea to maybe buy a cheap under-powered saw, and leave your ego in the house.

to answer your question though...you need a chainsaw and a splitting maul/axe. safety gear makes sense. start small, be safe, have fun, good luck.

ps-in my opinion, no one should be able to rent or use a power splitter until they have bleeding hands from operating a 10lb maul all day. cheers!

Noooooo. Sorry, but no matter your experience level with a maul, my bet is that you'll find 5-6 lb. to be most productive.

And as mentioned earlier, knit gloves with latex palm, like "atlas" are the way to go. No internal seams. Grabby palm lets you hold tools firmly without a death-grip. Extremely durable, and a couple $/pair. "Bleeding hands" not likely.

With the saw:
No "monkey grip"- keep your left thumb opposite the fingers to grab around the front grip
Left elbow locked straight as possible- keep the saw away from you
No body parts in the "plane of the chain"- kickbacks will happen, stay out of the path
Keep your feet well apart, for stability when the unexpected happens.
Regularly inspect the saw for anything coming loose, or out of order. Fix immediately. Keep chain properly tensioned.
Be ready at all times to pull the saw straight back rapidly when the kerf closes. Leave room there.
 
Thoughts from the pile

I generally cut 40 to 50 cord a year off piles of tree length. I'll offer my advice, you're most welcome to follow all, some or completely disregard as the rambling of some old guy that's full of crap like most.

First PPE. You should have and use the following. Ear, eye, and leg protection. I wear earmuffs, safety glasses, and Labonville full wrap chaps. Using a helmet is up to you, I find them cumbersome and uncomfortable for use on a pile but they are certainly a very good option. One of those YMMV situations. I've also found when the sun hits the mesh face shield at certain angles the glare will blind you, again up to you. As previously mentioned, a cell phone, on your person and accessible is a must. Always send a text to someone letting them know where you are and what you're doing before you start if working alone.

Boots should be heavy leather 8 to 9 inches high. The extra height over a hiker will keep your ankle from rolling under. You'll find when cutting or working around a pile of cut rounds they'll encounter situations where they want to bend in ways they're not supposed to.

You'll need 2 saws, or at the minimum an extra bar and chain for the one saw to get yourself out of a pinch. (This is a situation where having an outboard clutch becomes a major PITA), Stay with a short bar, 16 to 20 inch should be fine. I actually run a 17 and 13 quite a bit. Wedges 5-1/2 to 8 inches are handy too as long as you remember to bring something to drive them with.

As to being off the ground, if the driver / boom operator has any clue as to what he's doing he should have placed 3 runners minimum perpendicular to the direction of the pile to keep the wood up off the ground when he stacked it with the grapple. If he didn't look for a new guy next year, or be sure to be there when you take delivery so you be certain it's done properly. The runners don't just keep the wood from ground contact, they provide clearance as you cut through the bottom sticks. This method only puts 3 lengths in contact with the ground as opposed to the entire 12 to 15 that make up the bottom tier.

Now let's start cutting. Depending on the stack you may go down the length or cut on the end of the pile and work your way towards the center. You'll figure out what is working best as you go along. Watch the kerf as your cutting. If it starts to close get out immediately and come in from underneath. this is where knowing how to bore cut comes in real handy. As you're cutting be sure to watch for any signs of the pile shifting above. Sometimes it's just a real subtle rocking. See any signs get out fast and assess the situation prior to continuing.

Don't get ahead of yourself. Cut a tank, no more than 2, and then either move the rounds out of the way or I split them. When taking rounds off the pile if they don't come freely,don't force them. That one round may be acting as a keystone keeping the pile from rolling. Keeping the area around the pile cleaned up will greatly reduce your chances of slipping, tripping etc.

Always be balanced when cutting on the pile. I can not emphasis this enough. If things start to roll you need to be able to move, and you can't do this when you're practicing your log rolling skills. Don't reach with the saw. It's tempting but if you're reaching you're not balanced. The pile will get cut much quicker if you take that bit of time to be safe rather than spend 3 months on crutches.

Never try to take the pile down with a peavey or hookaroon. If it rolls, which in essence is what you're trying to do, you're way to close. Log piles do not roll in a straight line nor does just the one log roll, they like to bring unexpected company when they come down. Even if your off to the side you're in harm's way. Go to Harbor Freight and get a 20 ft. minimum tow strap. Wrap one end around the log where convenient and use a truck, tractor, SUV to pull from a safe distance. If that log won't come, pick another and try again. No vehicle access, a come along or 2000 lb winch anchored to a tree with a battery works wonders. You just need to break the log free, gravity will take over and be you're helper. If you need to roll the log to cut once it's free of the pile then the peavey or cant hook is fine.

That's my 2 cents, hopefully some of this is useful. Best advice is to go slow, and think first before doing anything.

Here's my summer project for sale during the 2015/2016 heating season.

Take Care
P3110235.JPG P3110239.JPG P3110238.JPG
 
I'm afraid this is getting out of hand! You don't need steel toed boots. Pay attention to where your bar is! Pay attention to where your feet are. Don't use your foot to hold short chunks in place, and you'll be fine. Gloves? Wear what is comfy. One of the saw gurus/testers here doesn't insist that people wear gloves. Grab the handle bar with your left hand and just make sure your thumb is wrapped UNDER the bar--not on top. That keeps your hand from sliding forward if the saw kicks back. When you are walking with the saw, use the chain brake. In fact, the safe way to start a saw is with the chain brake on. Read that on line manual for safe procedures.

For sharpening the chain? Sure, you can get guides and vises and all sorts of gadgets. When I learned, I was given--a file. No handle on it, just a round file with the uncomfy handle. That'll get you going. It takes a while to get the hang of filing, so don't get discouraged. When your saw starts throwing chips that hurt your face, that means you've got it. Don't forget about the rakers, and hit them a couple of times with a flat file after 3 or so sharpenings of the teeth.

You might want to check if the trucker is going to deck the logs--pile them up, or spread them out in one layer over the ground. Depending on their size, you might want a plastic wedge, which is a good thing to have around. They come in various sizes and colors, get the cheapest because you'll most likely nick it with the saw. Chaps, yes, eye protection of some kind, yes, and ear protection. Foam earplugs are fine. I can't wear safety glasses. They fog up. I wear mesh Bugz goggles.

You can blow the budget getting all the gadgets, or you can start with the basics. Don't wear anything with cords or strings dangling, either. Keep the kids and dogs away.
Just pay attention to what you are doing. Don't try to imitate the youtubers.

I've never heard of a bar unsticking bar. I finally got a peavey last year. Same with the hookaroon. Those are all options. You could go broke buying everything suggested in this thread. That stuff is expensive.

If money is no object, buy all that stuff. Get a suit of armor too. If money is limited, you'll do fine with ONE saw. You might want to buy an extra bar. When I've been stuck, with ONE saw, I've taken the bar off and put the spare on, and cut the chain out just fine. I only take ONE saw to the woods.
 
"pinch bar is a steel bar about 5 feet long that is round at top than about three quarters down it tapers to about 11/2 x11/2 inch square and then to a wedge"

That's also known in parts of the world as a "shale bar"...

As for the safety stuff, I wear glasses, gloves, hearing protection, and steel-toed boots...that's about it. I find that too much safety gear can be almost as dangerous as too little.

As for the equipment:

I have two wedges: a four inch and a six inch. I like the fact I can drop the four inch in my hip pocket.

I have a homemade log stand, but rarely use it.

I have an eight pound Truper maul that works well for me. http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/sto...-with-36-in-double-injected-fiberglass-handle I tend to be hard on wood handles...

I cut a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe as a cheap ruler, and use my daughter's sidewalk chalk to mark my lengths. The main thing about the PVC is that its cheap, it won't get wet, and its easy to see on the ground. As a side note, since I happen on to firewood that's been cut to length, I have another piece of PVC pipe cut as a go/no-go measuring tool...so that I can quickly identify whether that piece will fit the stove or that piece won't fit the stove...nothing worse than stuffing a piece of wood that's 1/2" too long into a hot stove in the middle of your living room!

For a pile of logs, I'll cut from the ends until I start getting logs too close together. Then I'll pull the pile apart, saw some more, pull the pile apart, saw some more. The main thing is to watch the pile and make sure its stable...mine has become unstable, and I'm going to need to basically pull it completely apart; maybe tonight. If you're not comfortable managing piles of logs, have the guy delivering the logs spread them out so they are a layer thick and up on a couple logs. I've gotten two grapple loads delivered so far, one was logs that were no less than 16" in diameter and the other has been mostly 8" diameter...it depends on the day and where they are pulling from.
 
I was, just going for the chuckle effect.....

Unfortunately I and others might not have known. I responded because most newbies are ignorant and therefore do not appreciate the risks. Nor do they know how true chainsaw PPE works. I cut with one that insists chaps aren't necessary because he wears "briar-proof" pants.

For most of us, PPE is a personal choice. For many of us, self included, the choice to use PPE was made only after a minor injury; a few don't get to make that choice.

Now back to the regular programming.

Ron
 
Noooooo. Sorry, but no matter your experience level with a maul, my bet is that you'll find 5-6 lb. to be most productive.

not according to my dad when I was 12 yrs old... ;)

the point was about commitment. you'll be far more successful committing to something than having the bestest thingy to be the mostest efficient right from the start. that, and I hate power splitters...unless they're armstrong splitters.
 
Unfortunately I and others might not have known. I responded because most newbies are ignorant and therefore do not appreciate the risks. Nor do they know how true chainsaw PPE works. I cut with one that insists chaps aren't necessary because he wears "briar-proof" pants.

For most of us, PPE is a personal choice. For many of us, self included, the choice to use PPE was made only after a minor injury; a few don't get to make that choice.

Now back to the regular programming.

Ron

Briar proof pants??? Is he just slap nuts? Does he have a spouse and kids? Ask him to run that junk science gem past his insurance guy, see what he says.

Or better, as he most likely won't do it, pick his brand saw, have him go their website, see if they say briar proof pants work as good as chaps, so chaps aren't needed.

Heck, here's another, easy money! Bet him one thousand clams. Buy some chaps and briar proof pants, then nick them with a saw. See which one stops the chain. Should clear around $800 profit.

More junk science from the bubbahood! Sport!

Save money on expensive truck and car wheels and tires, just go to the junkyard and buy 4 donut spares, run them. Heck, they are tires, right, just have to work as good!

Hoop snakes can bite their tail, form a hoop, and roll down the street and chase you!

And whip snakes leap into the air and whip ya!

And darning needle dragon flies can sew your ears shut!

You can catch more snipe at night with a gunny sack over a bucket!

You really don't need to change your vehicle oil, just gonna go get dirty again, and the oil companies just want your money anyway. Save big bucks!

You can overcome a dull chain, just push lots harder and swear at the saw, won't hurt a thing! And once that doesn't work, well, easey peasey, just flip the chain over, and cut on the other side!
 
Some bright orange paint to mark the logs with in the lengths you want to cut. I use a 16" cut piece of firewood for this.

Extra chains

Beer
 
I am kinda of surprised we are buying everything and I do mean everything wow. Many are good intended suggestions and should at least be looked at boots, chaps, PPE in general etc. the only thing I have not seen mentioned is this-.

When you get tired 1 min,5 min, 5 hrs , 5 days later stop it will be there tomorrow you have all year to process the wood, one small slip and its all over, think, move, think, work, think, plan etc. cuz it only takes a blink of an eye for it to change in an instant. if your lucky you get to watch the logs rot, if not the logs and you will decay at the same rate most likely.
 
Am I the only one who finds this all difficult to believe? A guy who has zero experience or equipment has purchased 7 cords of logs and comes onto an Internet forum to ask what he needs. I know everyone has to start somewhere but you need to crawl before you walk. I just see too many things that can go wrong here. To the OP, I'm not trying to tear you down but you need to find someone with experience to show you firsthand how to safely run a saw and to have that person cut the ones on top of the pile for you.
 
Am I the only one who finds this all difficult to believe? A guy who has zero experience or equipment has purchased 7 cords of logs and comes onto an Internet forum to ask what he needs. I know everyone has to start somewhere but you need to crawl before you walk. I just see too many things that can go wrong here. To the OP, I'm not trying to tear you down but you need to find someone with experience to show you firsthand how to safely run a saw and to have that person cut the ones on top of the pile for you.
That's how I started, with minimal chainsaw experience, after living in my new home for one year and getting $600-800 a month oil bills I went out and got a wood stove, then went over to my local box store and got a husky 455 and a 27 ton Troybilt, I then found a logger and bought a load of logs and went to work, I have since spent the money I saved on chainsaws.
 
Unfortunately I and others might not have known. I responded because most newbies are ignorant and therefore do not appreciate the risks. Nor do they know how true chainsaw PPE works. I cut with one that insists chaps aren't necessary because he wears "briar-proof" pants.

For most of us, PPE is a personal choice. For many of us, self included, the choice to use PPE was made only after a minor injury; a few don't get to make that choice.

Now back to the regular programming.

Ron
Thats a point but another argument is like mentioned you cannot put a comment like mine up on a website like this and have it fly without getting called out as an extremely dangerous practise that in no way would pass as safe. Heck it even kicked up the emphases on the safety end of the OP's questions a few notches...

Now if the outer pair of jeans were much bigger than the inner pair and you stuffed them full of straw I thing that would help greatly......

And no one so far (unless Im mistaken) has mentioned the danger of pulling logs down from the pile and having them fall on you, an idea there might be to use a rope or chain and tow them down with a truck or bicycle or even a come along....
 
And no one so far (unless Im mistaken) has mentioned the danger of pulling logs down from the pile and having them fall on you, an idea there might be to use a rope or chain and tow them down with a truck or bicycle or even a come along....

Check post # 43

Last full paragraph

Take Care
 
Thats a point but another argument is like mentioned you cannot put a comment like mine up on a website like this and have it fly without getting called out as an extremely dangerous practise that in no way would pass as safe. Heck it even kicked up the emphases on the safety end of the OP's questions a few notches...

Now if the outer pair of jeans were much bigger than the inner pair and you stuffed them full of straw I thing that would help greatly......

And no one so far (unless Im mistaken) has mentioned the danger of pulling logs down from the pile and having them fall on you, an idea there might be to use a rope or chain and tow them down with a truck or bicycle or even a come along....

Your comment added no real value to the conversation on how to keep the OP safe, thats why everone ripped it apart, and rightfully so. I guess if your intention was to spurr more talk about safety then it worked but its a dumb way of doing it, and by that I mean it makes you look dumb. Instead you could have provided what you considered useful information; i.e. about the pile shifting. Check posts #24 and #43.
 

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