What is the last brand or model you would work on?

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I am wondering what brand or particular models people give up on and just move on. I have a personal fondness for some that people hate
Myself is just about any Jobu but maybe someday I'll take another look.
 
Poulan 2551?



The pos was given to me in a box and just needed to be assembled, Carb,pullstart, throttle hooked up etc. (doing a favor for a family member)



I only got it back together due to not wanting to be beaten by such a total bastardation of basic engineering principles!


A throttle hookup is simple, right?


From the trigger to the carb, Correct? Not on this pig.


The throttle cable was anchored inside the handle and the trigger was like a cam that pressed in the center of the cable. Not so bad untill you get to the part where the cable loops around the carb :help: to the other side via lil plastic slideways, And guess what, you have to put the friggin cable end on the carb BEFORE you install the carb.:dizzy:


Huge POS
 
I never like the little Homelite Super 2's and variants. Pressurizing the oil tank with crankcase gasses to oil the chain caused more problems than it solved. and totally dismantling a saw to overhaul a carb is for the birds.
 
The Homelite Timberman and Ranger models....What a steaming pile of fecal matter.:censored:

Then the McCulloch 3200 series..you know, the smaller plastic models they made before they tanked. Not the larger 4600 series, those were nice, the 3200's were junk.

Fuel lines running every which way, screws all over the place, and if the handle comes apart, you might as well toss it, because it probably wont work right again.

Lastly, the Poulaen 3400,3700 etc etc. I got the Wizard equivalant, and I hate working on that thing. Great saw, lots of power, and not terribly heavy with a 16" bar/chain.

Id say the EASIEST saw to work on was the old Homelite XL.

Take the 7/16 bar nut off. Slide off the bar plate, bar, and remove the chain.

Remove the 5 screws off the recoil cover and Loop.

Remove the screw that holds the muffler on, and remove the plug.

Remvoe the 2 screws on the top, and the 2 on the bottom that hold the block in.

Unhook the kill wire off the coil, and slide the motor out, while popping off the throttle wire. The Oil and Fule tanks will come out with the motor.

Thats it, engine is sitting in yoru hands. I can do it in under 5 minutes now. Heck, Ive probably done it 125+ times.

Remove the carb, clean it, and the reed. Clean the whole motor up, and put it back together and get back to cuttin firewood.

Id bet that I can take the carb off this motor faster than soemone can take the carb off a New poulan..or heck, maybe even a newer stihl?

Very good design, very solid and simple.
 
Poulan (pull-on) need I say more!

Poulan (pull-on) need I say more! The green things with pull cords. I think they just built these to have fun with the people that buy them. the Hoosier
 
Some kind of little Mac in the 36-39cc range was a Grrrrrrrrrrr. and the homelite super 240 was a design I didnt like to work with when i was learning.
 
RED-85-Z51 said:
The Homelite Timberman and Ranger models....What a steaming pile of fecal matter.:censored:

Then the McCulloch 3200 series..you know, the smaller plastic models they made before they tanked. Not the larger 4600 series, those were nice, the 3200's were junk.

Fuel lines running every which way, screws all over the place, and if the handle comes apart, you might as well toss it, because it probably wont work right again.

Lastly, the Poulaen 3400,3700 etc etc. I got the Wizard equivalant, and I hate working on that thing. Great saw, lots of power, and not terribly heavy with a 16" bar/chain.

Id say the EASIEST saw to work on was the old Homelite XL.

Take the 7/16 bar nut off. Slide off the bar plate, bar, and remove the chain.

Remove the 5 screws off the recoil cover and Loop.

Remove the screw that holds the muffler on, and remove the plug.

Remvoe the 2 screws on the top, and the 2 on the bottom that hold the block in.

Unhook the kill wire off the coil, and slide the motor out, while popping off the throttle wire. The Oil and Fule tanks will come out with the motor.

Thats it, engine is sitting in yoru hands. I can do it in under 5 minutes now. Heck, Ive probably done it 125+ times.

Remove the carb, clean it, and the reed. Clean the whole motor up, and put it back together and get back to cuttin firewood.

Id bet that I can take the carb off this motor faster than soemone can take the carb off a New poulan..or heck, maybe even a newer stihl?

Very good design, very solid and simple.


I'll send you every one that comes my way, I think they're junk, to each his own.
 
klickitatsacket said:
any of the homelite knock offs made in china right now. Where in the H3LL do you get parts for them? :bang:

From the dumpster! plently of them in it...:biggrinbounce2:
 
I bought a Homelite Timberman at a yard sale for like 25 bucks..and it never ran right.

Seals leaked, case was flimsy, no torque up top, no torque...well...anywhere.

IT started hard, and wouldnt idle.

I blew it up and slammed it with a front end loader...a fitting end:clap:
 
I still have one Stihl 009 in my line-up, I can't explain why. The saw is loud, heavy and slow for its displacement and a b!tch to work on. But it's small enough to keep in the van for firewood scrounging. I'll work on these but I understand why someone wouldn't want to.
 
pain in the .....

Little macs. Cmon, any saw you have to remove the case to change the fuel filter was not meant to be repaired.

009s, well, the old orange ones can drive ya nuts. I know, I have one.
 
smalls

non stihl top handle saws! macs and echo and pulons are top on my list of hated saws to work on.. to many hard to get to little tiny as he@@ parts and skrews. takes time and 4 hands to them back to together. pulon kcrapsmans saws:chainsaw:
 
HAhahaaa. All of the afore mentioned "hated" saws sound just like the pile behind my shop. People give me these d@mb things all of the time. There a good source for nuts and bolts, except the 3200 series Macs that have those half torx / half flathead screws.
 

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