How do you like those premium light bars? Been interested in them myself.Some of my favorite,View attachment 1205901
What's on your bench
- Thread starter chainsaw _ crazy
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There nice, but over 28” , they tend to get a little flexy in the 32-36 “ if ur bore cutting much, The older model is stiffer.
My bench is currently loaded with almost 1000 223 cases I'm reloading. Never have enough... Then it's on to 338 Lapua's, 460 S&W's, 44Mags and 308's.
and no, I don't own a black gun either....
and no, I don't own a black gun either....
They on par with Stihl light bars? Weight wise I mean.
I hear ya. I lost all my pew pew’s in a boating accident…
There very close, but I think ES edges them,Tsumura makes a good quality bar ,
decided to replace the lead wire on the 010AV. some interesting things. to remove the flywheel, there are no screw holes or internal threads to anchor a puller. I looked at the service manual and they have a special puller that is basically a long nut that threads onto the end of the crank shaft. it says to thread it on, back it off 1 turn, hold the flywheel with 1 hand and hit the end of the tool. basically, they're saying to hammer on the crankshaft. something I've never wanted to do LOL. the tool is long because the flywheel has a deep well where the crankshaft is. at least the threads are taking the blow and not the end of the crank. made my own tool and it worked, came right off.
the other thing though, is the flywheel keyway. have never seen anything this bad. wonder if someone was trying to change the timing? that or they just F'd it up. the flywheel was actually rubbing against the coil or whatever it's called where you set the air gap. not sure how it was even running.
046 oiler
on the 010AV I posted above. got it running great, but every time I put the top cover back on, it would start crapping out and die. it has a thick wool looking air filter, which I had cleaned, but finally realized that it must be clogged. the funky choke was working perfectly. received this in the mail today, can't wait to try it out but been doing hurricane prep yesterday and all day today. live on the upper florida gulf coast. hopefully in a couple of days. gotta be the filter, nothing else I can think of.
very surprised that the new air filter did not fix the problem. starts easily, revs clean and idles steady until the top cover goes on. WTF? can the funky top cover choke be blocking the carb inlet? it pops up and locks in place when the switch is pushed to the no choke position. aargh.
Some late year bench action. Same customer that has the two TS420 saws I serviced last summer but this one is newer and not beat to death.
General maintenance and a hard start complaint with plug fouling. Plug is wrong heat range and fuel filter acting half restricted. Finish it off with some carb adjustments and a new belt.
Easy Peasy!
General maintenance and a hard start complaint with plug fouling. Plug is wrong heat range and fuel filter acting half restricted. Finish it off with some carb adjustments and a new belt.
Easy Peasy!
There are 2 choke flaps used on these saws. A flat one and one with and edge on it. The filter you have may be too high in the choke area. Also make sure the flap pulls up all the way from the filter plastic around the carburetor inlet. Remember, the air has to come up and the down the carb throat. The is no other place for it to enter. Have an 81 009 as you can see. Many upgrades in parts over the years. Early carbs were terrible. Early tank vents sucked until they were routed from under the cover to the recess in the case by the sprocket.
thanks for the response. the choke seems to snap up pretty high and it locks in the up position, not flopping around when up. I've tried 2 different filters, the old one that looks OEM and an aftermarket one. It runs great with either of the filters installed and the top cover off but dies when the top cover is installed so I guess now that it has to be the choke flap. will look at it again tomorrow. been doing hurricane clean up so haven't had time yet.
What's on my bench?
Way, way too much stuff.
A Crown DSI 4000 Amp, that is beyond my electronic knowledge to repair.
180 Litres of sugar wash, waiting for me to run through the still.
Free Husky Rancher 455 that was straight gassed. Rebuild kit showed up last week. Now to clear the bench, and git 'er done.
Echo 800 P, also straight gassed. I had the parts to fix it, but managed to lose the piston when I moved. Ebay got me another one, and tracking swears that it should be in my mail box on Monday afternoon..
Shaping up to be a fairly busy week.
Way, way too much stuff.
A Crown DSI 4000 Amp, that is beyond my electronic knowledge to repair.
180 Litres of sugar wash, waiting for me to run through the still.
Free Husky Rancher 455 that was straight gassed. Rebuild kit showed up last week. Now to clear the bench, and git 'er done.
Echo 800 P, also straight gassed. I had the parts to fix it, but managed to lose the piston when I moved. Ebay got me another one, and tracking swears that it should be in my mail box on Monday afternoon..
Shaping up to be a fairly busy week.
I haven't read anything good about Stihl Ultra but no scientific data that it sucks, so whatever. I run both Husky 2 stroke oil and Mobil One MX2T, but I run all my 2 strokes at 40:1 with no downside. chainsaws, trimmers, blower, Lawnboy, 2 direct injected Tohatsu outboards and my dirt bikes. a little more oil can't hurt right? what's the upside to 50:1?
One upside to 50 to 1 is that you only need to have one jug mixed at a time.. No 32 to 1 for the LawnBoy, and another jug at 40 to 1 for the saw, and another jug at 50 to 1 for the line trimmer. One jug, one mix. Personally, I think some of the "old" mix ratios were so that it didn't matter if you were in a Country where there was no Premium Synthetic available. Fresher mix with fresher fuel, quicker turnover, etc.
Other than that, I guess you just run the mix that makes it happy
