What's the advantage of a full wrap?

[homelitejim]

None, unless you fell on steep slopes.

Yes or rough terrain or tree access.

I like them on mine because my saws are only used for felling. I don't want or need one on my limbing or firewood saws.
They suck for flushing stumps too.

The firewood cutting I do around here requires felling standing dead as most trees already on the ground are either infested with ants or rotten. I like to leave my stumps so the next guy can see how it is done properly, you would be surprised how many farmer back cuts I see in the woods.

What's wrong with "back barring" - I have done a lot of it, and it never was an issue?

It becomes an issue when the tree is thicker than the bar is long and you need to maneuver the saw around the diameter of the tree to make the cut, unless of course you have arms like Hulk Hogan. I personally will flip the saw over, just seems easier to me to push the saw into the tree then pull it into the tree.

 

[SawTroll]

Simple answer, NO.

Like I said, out here, it is a requirement to have a full wrap if you are a faller, that's the rules, they wont let you out unless you have one.

I can imagine that, but way too many that are not in that area (or the PNW) seem to want it, for less than obvious reasons - I believe there are some "cool factor" involved in many cases, but no add-ons really are cool, if they aren't really needed.....

 

[SawTroll]

It becomes an issue when the tree is thicker than the bar is long and you need to maneuver the saw around the diameter of the tree to make the cut, unless of course you have arms like Hulk Hogan. I personally will flip the saw over, just seems easier to me to push the saw into the tree then pull it into the tree.

I don't really see that issue, and I am definately not Hulk Hogan - but conditions vary!

 

[Stihlman441]

Other reasons exit ST...

Funny, I contemplated a 3/4 wrap on my 441CM, but decided against it as I only cut firewood... Well first tree(s) I fell with it was a set of standing dead wood. One broke off and leaning on the other. I had to back-bar the back cut on the standing tree, or stand under the leaner. Yea it pushed back a bit, no it wasn't an issue, but w/ the wrap I would have had another option.

Still the limited use I would actually need it, the extra cash, and the extra storage space (it wouldn't even fit in my trucks lock-box at that time) pushed me to the standard half-wrap.

They do "look" mean though :chainsawguy:

dw

With the 441C R (wrap) ya get

Stiffer AV springs (a good thing)
Twin bumper spikes (good thing)
Roller chain catcher (good thing)
High out put olier (28'' bars +)
Large clutch cover

So whats the problem,just change the handle to a standard one.:msp_thumbup:

 

[Tzed250]

IIRC, back bar cuts are not an authorized technique in BC, and maybe some other areas. 3/4 wraps can help in other situations also. When bucking on steep ground sometimes the safest place to stand may not allow left hand on the front handlebar. Happened to me the other day and I was glad to have the 3/4 wrap on my 660.

 

[slowp]

Right on. For bucking blowdown, you need to stand in safe places and you can do so with a full wrap or 3/4 wrap. My neighbor told me to get one because it was a safety issue. He's a well respected, learned in the old growth days, former production faller.

 

[sachsmo]

My part of Indiana is very flat, but we like full wraps for clearing ditch banks.

I can see why they would be mandatory in BC.

Them guys in Europe sure like to cut low eh?

 

[arborealbuffoon]

I know that I always select tools based on the Big Two Criteria:

1. It has to look cool

2. What's his name (insert alleged God-like deity here) uses one


Adhering strictly to the Big Two paradigm relieves me of the inconvenience of actually thinking for my self. Handy in modern America today!! Heck, everybody's doin' it...........

 

[sachsmo]

Stuff that is not needed is not cool??????????

I don't need 7 6 cube saws, but they are quite cool. And the ones with full wraps are indeed better looking, and handle better.

When toting 30+ pounds with a lever disadvantage, every bit helps.

 

[user 64030]

With the 441C R (wrap) ya get

Stiffer AV springs (a good thing)
Twin bumper spikes (good thing)
Roller chain catcher (good thing)
High out put olier (28'' bars +)
Large clutch cover

So whats the problem,just change the handle to a standard one.:msp_thumbup:

Well in these parts it is speacial order, my dealer's distributor doesn't even stock them, and I have the 660 for any long bar work, besides, knowing my luck, I'd turn the oiler up to high and run the tank dry. The stiffer AV and large cover would be nice... just didn't want to wait for the order process. He said the last time he orders a wrap model it took over a month to come in from a distributor out west.

I can add the springs and cover if I really want, and got him to throw in the dawgs and roller catcher. :msp_rolleyes:


dw

 

[tolman_paul]

Back to the op, I'd say I haven't found a disadvantage to a full wrap bar. I'm not a professional feller, just cut firewood and help clear trails and clean up blowdown. It just happened when I went looking for a saw many years back I got a great deal on a full wrap husky 181. The vast majority of cutting I do is bucking, followed by limbing and dropping the occasional tree. I just have never found the full wrap to get in the way. There have been occasions where I find myself in positions where I'm glad to have the full wrap. I'd say if you get the opportunity to run a full wrap saw, you just might like it.

I don't see the advantage of cutting a stump off flush because you're running the chain into the dirt. If you need to get rid of the stump, use a stump grinder.

 

[Tempestv]

I'm a carpenter/log builder. I frequently use my chainsaws over my head, upside down, and all sorts of weird angles. If I had my way, all chainsaws, from a MS-180 or MS200 rear handle carving saw on up to the largest saws would be available with a full wrap that allows for purchase all 360 degrees around the saw- top, both sides, and bottom.

My old Husky 380cd has a handlebar off a 380k cutoff saw, which is a lot more generous than the standard handlebar, and offers a good handle on the bottom of the saw (it's meant to keep the 14" diameter blade on the cutoff saw from hitting the dirt). The ability to grab the bottom of the saw has come in handy more than once, not to mention that when I set the saw down, the bar sticks up in the air, keeping it far away from dirt and rocks. Eventually I'm going to add a wrap bar that covers the clutch side, and I'll have my perfect chainsaw handlebar.

View attachment 253332

The only disadvantage to a full wrap is when clearance is critical, which for me is more often than just trying to cut off stumps flush, so I'll keep a couple saws with half wraps for this reason.

 

[mdavlee]

Sawtroll buddy the full wrap is nice when you're cutting at shoulder level on a creek bank with only one spot to stand with out being in the creek and under the tree. You get to back barring with a hot 90 cc saw and a 28" or 32" bar buried it's all I can do to keep it in the wood on a 40" tree. I don't do it a lot but the times I have cut large trees on steep banks a full wrap made them way easier. The 2 times the saw I was using didn't worked me 3x harder to get the same thing done.

 

[Trx250r180]

stihls dont balance out unless have 3/4 wrap bars ,al my big saws have them ,i like them for the extra handle position when trimming or falling

 

[user 64030]

Dang this thread... has me contemplating picking up a 3/4 wrap for my 441

dw

 

[GASoline71]

Sure are a lot of "fellers" around here...

I have always prefered the 3/4 wrap instead of the full wrap handles on my fallin' saws.

Gary

 

[Cedarkerf]

This is where I find em handy, 45" tree 32" bar steep, the up hill side of stump is about a foot tall

 

[R/C Pilot]

A lot of extra nice items on a R (wrap) model for not much extra money. I think it's money well spent.

 

[parrisw]

Sawtroll buddy the full wrap is nice when you're cutting at shoulder level on a creek bank with only one spot to stand with out being in the creek and under the tree. You get to back barring with a hot 90 cc saw and a 28" or 32" bar buried it's all I can do to keep it in the wood on a 40" tree. I don't do it a lot but the times I have cut large trees on steep banks a full wrap made them way easier. The 2 times the saw I was using didn't worked me 3x harder to get the same thing done.

Back baring just simply sucks on anything over 20"

 

[RandyMac]

Sure are a lot of "fellers" around here...

I have always prefered the 3/4 wrap instead of the full wrap handles on my fallin' saws.

Gary

that 'cause you a wiener.:hmm3grin2orange: