What's the most common MISTAKE newbies make while sharpening a chainsaw chain?

[northmanlogging]

The back drag thought had been shot down numerous times and yet here we are debating it again and again


Don't get to machine much aluminum on heavy duty diesels. Files were a tool that wore out, when it was junk it was junk. None of the machinists would back drag files but none of them had files that lasted for years either.

hastalloy, Inconel, 316, 304, 440 stainless, lots of various chrome molly steels, not just aluminum.

 

[Brushpile]

Is it ok to pull instead of push through? I'm only filing one direction, on the pull (however beit poorly) first sharpening on a new chain after 30min run time this morning

 

[Philbert]

Is it ok to pull instead of push through? I'm only filing one direction, on the pull (however beit poorly) first sharpening on a new chain after 30min run time this morning

Yes.

I use 2 hands to control the file.

With some file guides, it can help to pull, if that works for you.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Yes.

I use 2 hands to control the file.

With some file guides, it can help to pull, if that works for you.

Philbert

UPDATE: your video did not load the first time I viewed this post!

It looks like you are pulling the file backwards?

However you file, your goal should be to move it on a consistent path. Like a pool cue. Not to rock it through the cut.

One hand. Two hands. Whatever.

And move it in the direction that the file was meant to cut.

Philbert

 

[Brushpile]

It looks like you are pulling the file backwards?

Damn, you're right

 

[Wood Doctor]

Most common mistake is when one side of the chain is sharpened more than the other. So, the "sharpened" chain pulls left or tight and does not cut straight down. Sometimes this will happen on a brand new chain, and even the bar can cause it.

 

[Philbert]

“You FILED the chain,
but, did you SHARPEN the chain?”


Philbert

 

[Brushpile]

“You FILED the chain,
but, did you SHARPEN the chain?”
View attachment 1249892

Philbert

No sir, I did not. I'm doing it the correct way now.

 

[Tomyp89]

Do you clean the teeth before filing?
I have the oil always on max, and sometimes the chain is oily after use.
Small wire brush and a drop of break cleaner or wd40. Big difference.

Another thing, i got good at grinding the depth limiters with a worn flap disc.
Fast and close to spec.

How many chains can you sharpen with one file? I mean until the teeth are at limit. I could do little over 2 15"64 dl ,325" with some machine sharpening.
Now i know what a PITA it is to run a dull file, i have a stash now.

 

[JR Hill]

One thing I must do is have the saw in a comfortable position so I can maintain consistent angles. If the saw sliding around, rocking, etc as you move through the stroke there no doubt the teeth will vary. Another is one side to the other. I am relatively ambidextrous so I can switch which hand is pushing the file but understandably a lot of people are not comfortable using the 'off' hand.

So get comfy and make sure the saw is not moving around.

 

[Husky77]

Is it ok to pull instead of push through? I'm only filing one direction, on the pull (however beit poorly) first sharpening on a new chain after 30min run time this morning

sorry to say but you need a serious talking to. these days there are so many "experts" showing some good tutorial video's (also some bad) there is no excuses. If you use a saw you really should know how to maintain it for your own safety at least. your pulling that file backwards with no regard to a cutting edge and wondering if you were pushing how long would it be before the tang is into your wrist and your off to er. Sorry for the negative post, maybe its an early april fool post.

 

[Brushpile]

sorry to say but you need a serious talking to.

Sorry for the negative post, maybe its an early april fool post.

I shoulda just watched this video. I'm right at 55 . I know better. I've forgotten more than I remember., but I do forget a lot of these days. I can sharpen any knife, and a chain. I've set and watched the half moon form under the glint of the sunshine on my old Echo with the different bars and chains I had for it.. Honestly I had just gotten home from had a asthma attack while cutting up a fallen live oak 24" with a brand new MS250. (Recently switched over from the CS400 I did a muff mod on from what I learned here 10 yrs ago.) I dizzily made my way home and did this on the tailgate. I can't see neither. Lol. You're right, there's no excuse. I worked it the right direction and watched videos last night. Funny thing I couldn't for the life of me figure out what this groove is. Til I looked at it on a photo Shrug"

 

[Husky77]

We all been there man, these days I spend more time looking for something i put "safe" even gone and bought another only to find out I then have two. Its definitely an age thing so dont worry, every day we learn a little more. Have a look on YouTube for bucking billy ray he has some good sharpening advice.
Stay safe

 

[president]

The best thing is to know what you want to achieve, Use a brand new cutter to gauge things. I bought one of these to show guys what to aim for.
View attachment 1063843View attachment 1063844View attachment 1063845

The best thing is to know what you want to achieve, Use a brand new cutter to gauge things. I bought one of these to show guys what to aim for.
View attachment 1063843View attachment 1063844View attachment 1063845

where did you buy that from?

 

[Philbert]

where did you buy that from?

Here’s one. STIHL and Oregon also used to sell them.

Philbert

 

[Ralf1e]

You can easily imagine the whole "edge support" thing ,just by looking the image of the file teeth on my post.

Heat treatment ( usually to a hardness above 65-70 HRC ) is the major reason that file teeth CHIP .File heat treatment makes
it's teeth unable to even slightly bend ( elastic or plastic deformation ) and actually they are extremely prone to chipping.

You also seem to neglect that chain cutters are also heat treated and Chromium plated .They are softer than a file ,but still able to dull it .( A lot of machinists use files that are 20, 30 or even more years old and are still functional .Sharpening a single chain is enough to wear out a chainsaw file .Cutters are hard enough . )
Let alone to chip it's teeth when pressure is applied during a backstroke .My previous job was a lathe machinist for more than 20 years .FWIW ,you can believe whatever you like .
After all it's your files you treat this way ,not mine.

As for the proof you 're asking for ,it's relatively easy to obtain .
Just take two brand new files of the same brand and type and use one with only forward strokes when filling and the other like a hand saw :back and forth .See with your own eyes which file
of the two will service you longer and more efficiently.
Or you can search for info from all the major file manufacturers .
If you find any of them stating that it's ok to use a file like a hand saw,I will put a piercing through my @@ .

Furthermore ,one does not need to have an exceptionally high iq to realize that with a forward stroke of the file you sharpen a chain cutter ,while with a following back stroke of the file you are dulling it again.Cutters are supposed to be sharpened one way only .
From the inside side of the cutter to the outside side .
Right ?

So what your saying is that having taken away material to leave a sharp edge when you file back the other direction you put material back on leaving it blunt again. Are you sure you were a lathe operator for 20 years? Or is it April 1st already

 

[Ralf1e]

Well what can I say? Now you have been informed. I routinely file front to back, inside to outside... Whichever is most convenient for where I am at and which saw & chain I am filing.

Now since this method has never come to your attention, here is the difference, and I will use your terminology. When you file from inside to outside, the file does not cut off the last tiny portions of the cutter, and it leaves a burr. ALWAYS. This tiny burr really isn't of much importance, and quickly comes off moments after you begin cutting the wood. The formation of a burr is more prominent when grinding with a wheel "from inside to outside". This will be the left side cutters if using an Oregon chain grinder with a one directional motor.

Now file "outside to inside" and you will find that the stroke is a bit more aggressive in removing the metal, it leaves no burr, and it also has a tendency to chatter if you don't hold the cutter better. Being a bit more aggressive while filing in that direction, you can work faster with less pressure, although you will still work harder with your off hand holding the chain better. It also leaves a sharper edge with no burrs.

Now you'll find thousands of folks to argue with me, but that that doesn't make 'em right. Perhaps this thread will introduce you to plenty of other folks that are "doing it backwards". Myself, I can't tell you what % of the entire world of chain filers adhere to your standard. Most, probably.

You quoted material from a sharpening website. Go back to how your razors, microtomes, or even pocket knives are sharpened: the sharpe edge is created by pushing into the stone with a slicing action. Doing it backwards still leaves a burr.

And if that isn't a convincing argument, just watch the rest of this video. Notice the filing direction.

Like I said: now you aware of at least a single person that does it that way.

BTW: I believe the reason all the chainsaw companies are telling you to stroke your file to the front of the bar is so that you are less likely to slip off the tooth, fly into the cutting edge and cut your hand to ribbons on the exposed cutting edges. It's a safety consideration more than it is a "how to get it sharp" issue.

As you said, any tool always a burr if you don't sharpen from the cutting edge to the trailing edge. Knives, razors, chisels, scissors, machine tools, drill bits, router bits, axes, swords. So glad we agree or I would feel I had been betrayed by all the cleverest engineers who taught me over 55 years ago.lol

 

[Dacha]

Once i figured how to fasten the saw right for sharpening, all was good.

Prior to that too many things were moving, and sharpening was very poor.

Other things - not sharpening soon enough and dull file.

Had many poorly sharpened chains when i paid for sharpening, until i found shops that have regular staff and do a decent or vey good job.

 

[NSEric]

As you said, any tool always a burr if you don't sharpen from the cutting edge to the trailing edge. Knives, razors, chisels, scissors, machine tools, drill bits, router bits, axes, swords. So glad we agree or I would feel I had been betrayed by all the cleverest engineers who taught me over 55 years ago.lol

If you file from the outside/edge in on a chainsaw chain the file grabs and bounces because only the outside is hardened, it works better really but is harder to do.
We run the file the opposite way compared to sharpening knifes and stuff simply because it's easier.
I find with chainsaw stuff a lot of people claim the way they've been doing it for years is the only way to do something.