why is a Poulan a pullin'?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
What I've found with the cheaper homeowner saws across the board is that upgrading the fuel filter and line, cleaning the carb and making sure the gaskets and intake boots fit right, running it quite a bit richer than factory, removing the anti-spark screen, changing to a new plug with proper gap and generally "finishing" the saw help a lot. In my area, with our local fuels, anything with ethanol in it is going to be a problem when used as saw mix, so I use 93 octane non-ethanol fuels. Some times you get what appears to be a lemon, no doubt. But that isn't limited to Poulan.

And you are right, the older Poulans were much better saws.
 
i agree buying name brand is giving your money away but only if your buying lesser models. even some of the lesser models are significantly better then the poulans however, there are no stihl clamshells in that list lol
To me it's about looking at the design, not the name. The new Ryobi RY3716 blow away the cheapest Poulans in spite of having cat mufflers, and at a good price too. They are Chinese clones based on the G3800 and GZ4000 chassis, have A/V, plated cylinders, etc. But then those Poulans were designed to a rock bottom price point and for a customer who will likely hardly use it and probably ruin it anyway. There are other models, like the 5020.

I rather like the clamshell engine design - it is a compact, sturdy and self contained engine that has less case seams to fail and is much easier to change bearings on. There is no inherent performance disadvantage either, as exactly the same ports and cylinder shapes can be cast. All saws are made of the same few metal alloys and plastic types, it's just where they are used. For my use I don't mind a plastic chassis at all, as I find they are sturdy and long lasting, but your use is radically different and it might not work - although no one has tried to make a pro class saw that way as it would not be accepted. Still, you could make a 90cc high performance clamshell engine and put it in a strong mag chassis, or perhaps a plastic one.
 
I'm a novice here. I'm not trolling to start a fight.

I've used cheap stuff like Poulan's for years. I had a significant cedar clearing to do so I treated myself to a Stihl MS250 and I am astounded at the difference. It starts reliably, while using it you can set it down and idles doesn't die etc. Restarts when hot, no problem.

I've taken the Poulan Pro apart several times and honestly it actually looks more heavy duty than the Stihl. More metal less plastic etc. But starting it and keeping it running was always a pain. I looked for reviews on the web and sure enough there were like hundreds of complaints and then mysteriously they all disappeared. In fairness to Poulans I think the old stuff was ok.

I was thinking maybe the Stihl had their own better carb but its got Zamas too. So I just can't figure out what makes the Stihl so much better. Is it the metallurgy of cylinder, piston, crankcase better, tighter tolerances?

I've had a similar experience upgrading to an Echo trimmer.

I guess there's a reason that all you see on these landscaping crew trailers is Stihls and Echos I just wish I could figure out what makes them so much better.
The ms 250 is a homeowner saw but works great for the guys who run them into the dirt all the time and they are light. I just sold my old poulan pro 46cc piped and in great shape. Pulled the 20 bc just fine and use to mill with it. Only reason it got sold was for my rc hobby
 
I believe they both have small ZAMA carbs. ZAMA has been owned by Stihl for a few years now. Maybe Poulan should use some higher quality suppliers!

Joking aside, Poulan tends to buy crap fuel line, so check that first.
I don't know if it is always buying cheep line. My guess is they test run them with cheep vachina ethanol fuel the box it up and who knows how long it sits after that before a consumer gets it. Just my opinion
 
I don't know if it is always buying cheep line. My guess is they test run them with cheep vachina ethanol fuel the box it up and who knows how long it sits after that before a consumer gets it. Just my opinion
All mine ever get is E10 and I rarely if ever drain them. Most fuel lines are several years old and work fine.
 
With the 5020, top up the fuel tank and pump the purge bulb (you cannot flood it with the purge bulb). Look to see if it is pulling air bubbles in the lines or the bulb. If it is, it may be a leak in the lines, or if the lines are OK it's possibly a leaky check valve in the carb. I find the ZAMA C1 series carb check valves leak quite often, which makes it hard to start and L tuning inconsistent. I just dealt with this today and had to swap on another carb.
 
I know lots of people say they never have any issues with ethanol fuels, but my experience is that our local ethanol mixes in Northern NY are a problem with 2 strokes. The older the saw, the worse it gets.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top