RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lakeside53 said:I was thinking sap, but pest is way to smart for that, but...
No not sappish, I think this one has value, just needs to be teased to the surface.opcorn:
Lakeside53 said:I was thinking sap, but pest is way to smart for that, but...
RaisedByWolves said:No not sappish, I think this one has value, just needs to be teased to the surface.opcorn:
RaisedByWolves said:.....
Most everything you can find pertains to bikes and as I understand it not much of it works for our saws.
I can understand how a piston port could run higher rpm's than a given reed motor and how a reed motor with stiffer petals could achieve the same HP/RPM's but at a loss of low end torque.
What I would like to find out is fi there is anyone out there that has good "Woods" numbers for a reed engine saw jiven the stock reed stiffness.:help:
PEST said:PEST stands for
Power Equipment Service and Technology
I shall re-register to avoid further confusion
PEST said:I started the thread to make people think and that makes me a jackass
I know nothing it's OK
I now know better
TreeCo said:If there are members you would rather not hear from just go to their personal profile and click on 'Add username to Your Ignore List'.
It is a great feature.
Tzed250 said:Reed valve induction is geared toward an engine that must operate over a wide RPM range, and at different throttle positions. Yamaha figured out many years ago that the piston port roadrace engines made higher peak HP numbers, but suffered with poor rideability. Since chainsaws operate in a narrow RPM rage, and at WOT, the advantages of reed induction are somewhat lost. A reed valve in the intake track is actually an impedence to flow, therefore costing peak HP.
TreeCo said:If there are members you would rather not hear from just go to their personal profile and click on 'Add username to Your Ignore List'.
It is a great feature.
RaisedByWolves said:Some of these posts got me to thinkin, I may try to find a source of thin pre made sheets of carbon fiber and make some limp torque reeds for some of my torquier saws.
I recently got a 6 shoe clutch for my 925 and the clutch is no longer the weak link, the clutch now has enough grip to drag the rpms down to around
2500 (guesstimate) and more torque would be nice right around 3-4K.
Juts have to come up with a repeatable way to test torque.
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