Woohoo! I've Got 12" Wood!!!

[U&A]

Only posting this here because I mentioned it a little while ago and wanted your guys thoughts.

So now im doing 3 LARGE splits on the bottom and 3 average splits in top. This will get me a solid 5 hours of nice hot air out of the blower. About another hour of “reasonable” heat. And then another 2 hours of “OK” heat. The last 2 hours the air is definitely warm but not hot and the “auto” setting on the blower makes it kick on and off.

The stove will hold hot red cols for a good 12 hours that you can use to to start a fire when you get home.

How do they (manufacturer) determine 8 hours? Is it 8 hours that the blower stays on when it is on “auto mode”? If that is the case i see 8 hours easy. But i see a true 5 hours of really hot air. I find that reasonable.

Thoughts?



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[bfrazier]

U&A,

Evidently there is no industry standard measure on burn time.

I notice how much longer I'll have coals good enough to reignite kindling IF I have plenty of ashes for them to burry themelves down to. Also, I'm in the west burning softwood from my own timber stand, how could my numbers possibly compare to those in the east with hardwood. Lastly, the size of the wood matters. Bigger chunks obviously burn way longer.

I got this from http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hobtutest.htm

We don't put much stock in manufacturers' heat output claims, for two reasons: first, heat output testing is not regulated by any government agency. Second, the hearth product industry has never established a uniform testing procedure. There are actually many test protocols available, the two most prevalent being “calorimeter room” and “stack loss” testing, but a manufacturer may choose to test to either of these protocols, a combination of both, or another protocol altogether. This testing may be performed in an independent lab, or in the manufacturer’s own lab. The only assurance that actual test results of any kind exist to back up a manufacturer’s published numbers is provided by the truth in advertising laws.
The lack of a uniform testing procedure can result in some seemingly wacky manufacturer's claims. For example, Travis Industries lists the heat output for their smallest model, the Avalon Pendleton, which has a shoebox-size (1.3 cu.ft.) firebox, at 64,200 btu/hr. How Travis managed to squeeze 64,200 btu/hr out of one cubic foor of wood is beyond us, but nonetheless, we're betting they can produce verifying test results if prodded.
Travis Industries is not alone. Whatever test protocol is used, woodstove manufacturers tend to publish the highest output achieved in their best test burn, usually qualified with the phrase “maximum output” or “up to.” While not reflective of real-world performance, this number can provide a simple basis of comparison from one model to another, particularly within a given manufacturer’s product line, where all other factors are often equal (same basic design and materials, different size firebox).
The problem is, all other factors are often not equal. Soapstone stoves, for example, don’t get nearly as hot as plate steel or cast iron stoves, so they don’t tend to score as high in maximum output testing. However, a soapstone stove will continue to radiate meaningful heat hours after a plate steel or cast iron stove has gone cold, so the net heat output to the room over time might be equal or even greater.

 

[user 122190]

Consistency in size and especially shape dictates a lot of what I do with my wood in the stove. The shorter stuff does make for easier splitting in making kindling. And for putting in such that it creates a gap for a better burn. I get a longer burn placing the wood in lengthwise vs. the OP newfound method. As always, go with what works for you.

 

[bfrazier]

Consistency in size and especially shape dictates a lot of what I do with my wood in the stove. The shorter stuff does make for easier splitting in making kindling. And for putting in such that it creates a gap for a better burn. I get a longer burn placing the wood in lengthwise vs. the OP newfound method. As always, go with what works for you.

I (OP) also split my wood to skinny, too thin. Dummy learning my lesson(s)! You're dead on about size and shape dictating what to do. And proper air control.

 

[greenskeeper]

26" is the width of my stove, so I try to cut all rounds to that length. I also marked on my splitter 26" so anything longer gets resized before going into the pile.

 

[md1486]

When you guys say that the burn last 6-7-8hrs etc, do you mean that you still have coal to put a big piece of hardwood ? Or you have to start with kindling/smaller piece ? For my insert, after 5-6 hours of overnight slow burn, I cant put big chunk of hardwood, if I do that, stove gonna smoke for 20+ min before the fire “restart”. But my insert is quite small (2 sqf)

 

[bfrazier]

Consistency in size and especially shape dictates a lot of what I do with my wood in the stove. The shorter stuff does make for easier splitting in making kindling. And for putting in such that it creates a gap for a better burn. I get a longer burn placing the wood in lengthwise vs. the OP newfound method. As always, go with what works for you.

Bill, do you set some wood aside (for overnight fires) that are as large as will fit the stove or have some other advice on getting a longer burn?

 

[buzz sawyer]

Well. I tried this and found I could put up to a 16" log in north and south. The incoming air can be cut way down or shut off so the only air comes in at top vents. This way, the log burns very slowly as it sits IN the pile of coals instead of over the coals so not much air gets under it. Going to try it this way for awhile.

 

[bfrazier]

Well. I tried this and found I could put up to a 16" log in north and south. The incoming air can be cut way down or shut off so the only air comes in at top vents. This way, the log burns very slowly as it sits IN the pile of coals instead of over the coals so not much air gets under it. Going to try it this way for awhile.

Hey Buzz, that's great! Not sure I understand the how you do "in the coals" as opposed to "over the coals"? I think 15" would be my longest possible but I'd be too close to the front glass. I'm trying some other possibilities too: 1. Pushing all the coals to one side then laying in my wood, so that it sort of chains along as the night goes on without my having to damp off 95% of the air. Limited results thus far, and 2. putting pieces in with various air gaps between the logs.

I'll follow up with a diagram.

 

[bfrazier]

Have a look and give us your thoughts?

 

[Sandhill Crane]

C/C

 

[U&A]

C longest

C hottest


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[U&A]

There is a smiley face in “B” though.... [emoji848]


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[buzz sawyer]

Hey Buzz, that's great! Not sure I understand the how you do "in the coals" as opposed to "over the coals"? I think 15" would be my make but I'd be too close to the front glass. I'm trying some other possibilities too: 1. Pushing all the coals to one side then laying in my wood, so that it sort of chains along as the night goes on without my having to damp off 95% of the air. Limited results thus far, and 2. putting pieces in with various air gaps between the logs.

I'll follow up with a diagram.

When I put them East/West, they set on two metal ledges that hold them up just enough so air passes under them. North/South, they set in between the ledges and in the coals. The far end of the logs get little or no air so it is the last area to burn.

 

[bfrazier]

C longest

C hottest

I'm surprised U&A, as I was thinking it was an either or situation - as in you can rick your wood to either bur hotter OR longer, but not both. (??)

The one for sure thing for me is that going East West I have much less control on this but in the North South it's easier to lay in and fit in two layers, so it is working for me in that way. In figure D above the large center log, if not put up on coals is more or less forced to burn from the top down so burns slower... I think. (I'm certainly not saying that I think there is a right or wrong answer, only what a person might try for themselves.

 

[bfrazier]

Ok, maybe this is a better question? Everybody should have at least an opinion. Opinions welcome!

 

[sb47]

I found that loading it differently defiantly makes it burn differently. It all depends on how long I want the wood to last. Front to back burns faster then side to side.

 

[Trapper_Pete]

I am in the it depends on what I am trying to accomplish

my stove a Quadrafire 3100 step top it has air bars across the top , and air in the front under the glass in the center marked in the diagram it also has start up air in the back 2 holes about half way up and just right and left of center

I haven't cleaned my glass in about a month so it is a little hard to see but this is 3 medium splits in a day burn config but dampered down it's about 80 in the living room right now.

stove temp really needs a measure to better understand the air controls and what they are doing for you .

my long burn is probably really only in my prime heating range 275 to 200 degrees stove top for 3-4 hours then between 200 and 150 for another hour or so ,but I can easily start up another fire 6-7 hours later from the embers and the stove top temp is still at 100 degrees so putting off heat just not enough to keep the house up so the temp falls and the furnace might kick in for a little while in the morning before I get up but if I get up once in the night and the dogs usually need out around 2-3am or I need to pee and I add wood then the house stays warm and the furnace never kicks in all night



with the start up I leave the primary and start up air wide open for about 15 minutes till everything is really going then turn off the start up air and leave the primary air open.

in day burn about 2-3 hours I need to add more wood

running like this for about 11 years now I have needed very minimal chimney cleaning in all metal chimney that is double wall form stove to ceiling and I don't recall if double or tripple from the thimble to the cap 22 feet up one set of back to back 45s right before the thimble through the ceiling.

I work from home most days so feeding the fire every 2-3 hours isn't an issue , I would much rather burn a little more wood than clean my chimney more often.

 

[bfrazier]

I am in the it depends on what I am trying to accomplish
I would much rather burn a little more wood than clean my chimney more often.

Thanks Pete,

Your first and last sentences say a ton. Good sound advice. I learned a thing or two from your diagrams too.

Bests,
Bob

 

[TimberWolf530]

When you guys say that the burn last 6-7-8hrs etc, do you mean that you still have coal to put a big piece of hardwood ? Or you have to start with kindling/smaller piece ? For my insert, after 5-6 hours of overnight slow burn, I cant put big chunk of hardwood, if I do that, stove gonna smoke for 20+ min before the fire “restart”. But my insert is quite small (2 sqf)

I pretty much do it just like Pete describes in his diagram, except I use fatwood instead of paper & kindling. Actually, once the season kicks into gear, I don't need anything. I always have enough coals to get it going without any help. Here is how to minimize smoke in the morning, or after any slow burn. If you have a good coal bed, rake it and leave your door cracked open to allow extra air in. Less than 10 min will really get the coals hot. Then add your wood. If it is well seasoned, it will ignite in seconds with minimal smoking. Just add the bottom layer of wood, and let it get going good, then add the balance. You will have a roaring full stove in no time.

I am in the it depends on what I am trying to accomplish

my stove a Quadrafire 3100 step top it has air bars across the top , and air in the front under the glass in the center marked in the diagram it also has start up air in the back 2 holes about half way up and just right and left of center

I haven't cleaned my glass in about a month so it is a little hard to see but this is 3 medium splits in a day burn config but dampered down it's about 80 in the living room right now.

stove temp really needs a measure to better understand the air controls and what they are doing for you .

my long burn is probably really only in my prime heating range 275 to 200 degrees stove top for 3-4 hours then between 200 and 150 for another hour or so ,but I can easily start up another fire 6-7 hours later from the embers and the stove top temp is still at 100 degrees so putting off heat just not enough to keep the house up so the temp falls and the furnace might kick in for a little while in the morning before I get up but if I get up once in the night and the dogs usually need out around 2-3am or I need to pee and I add wood then the house stays warm and the furnace never kicks in all night

View attachment 689717 View attachment 689718

with the start up I leave the primary and start up air wide open for about 15 minutes till everything is really going then turn off the start up air and leave the primary air open.

in day burn about 2-3 hours I need to add more wood

running like this for about 11 years now I have needed very minimal chimney cleaning in all metal chimney that is double wall form stove to ceiling and I don't recall if double or tripple from the thimble to the cap 22 feet up one set of back to back 45s right before the thimble through the ceiling.

I work from home most days so feeding the fire every 2-3 hours isn't an issue , I would much rather burn a little more wood than clean my chimney more often.