KG441c
Keith
I see the cuts on thoso files are different? Ones straight and ones on an angle?
It is. They work well but I'm still practicing my angles.The ones on the right if they're double bevel profile are great.
seems like the strait across work good for final grooming ,the angled are more agressiveI like the straight across
I get longer life on the straight across. The others I chip the corner on the side to file left hand cutters.seems like the strait across work good for final grooming ,the angled are more agressive
The angled file did seem to sharpen my Stihl square chisel faster. My Oregon square chisel chains seem easier to sharpen compared to the Stihl chains. I'm currently using full skip square chisel on my 660 but wanting to try some semi-chisel. Most of the oak wood I cut is green not dry. It's a lot easier to split with my maul too.seems like the strait across work good for final grooming ,the angled are more agressive
oregon is much easier to sharpen than stihl ,i am glad i have a grinder ,lolThe angled file did seem to sharpen my Stihl square chisel faster. My Oregon square chisel chains seem easier to sharpen compared to the Stihl chains. I'm currently using full skip square chisel on my 660 but wanting to try some semi-chisel. Most of the oak wood I cut is green not dry. It's a lot easier to split with my maul too.
Two cycle oil typically doesn't have very many additives. Usually a detergent and that's about it in most cases. The anti seizure properties are determined by how much bright or PIB is added or by the molecular weight of the base oil in the case of most ester oils.I don't want to hear I told you so, because no one here has posted this in 335 pages.
Anyway...
One reason to run more oil (in many cases), would be to get more additives into the engine.
hypothetical bottle of "xyz" oil (the make up/formulation)
80% oil
10% solvents
10% additives - corrosion inhibitors, anti wear, anti seize, friction reducer, detergents, anti smoke...stuff like that.
----
100%
Say you dump in a typical 4oz of xyz in...
so 3.2oz = oil, .4oz = solvents, .4oz = additives.
4oz - 32:1= 1.00 gal
4oz - 40:1 = 1.25 gal so @ 40:1 you've diluted/stretched your .40z of additives by 25% over 32:1
4oz - 50:1 = 1.56 gal and @ 50:1 you've diluted/stretched your .4oz of additives by 56%. over 32:1
I did say in most cases. Additive packages are all over the map...ie. how much of which and quality of which that make up that typical 10%.
Stihl ultra additives are specific to saws. (saws only?) They say you can run 50:1. So their additive package probably good enough at 50:1.
However, many of these other oils aren't geared towards saws. So running extra oil and thus extra additives (vs stihl ultra) = probably a good thing. Unless you know the make up of the oil and that the additive package is super strong and thus could be run at 50:1. oils that come to mind for that would be ultra, 800, h1r, and maybe amsoil since they shout 100:1 all the time.
I'm not suggesting anything here. I do think I am presenting something that hasn't been presented here before. Personally I'll error on the side of caution as additives are very important.
How did it smell ?I burned a 1.25 gallons of K2 at 40:1 this morning between a OE 365 with a 372 jug and a 201 T c-m.
It changed my life.
I got 64oz for free.
how do you like the 201tc-m?I burned a 1.25 gallons of K2 at 40:1 this morning between a OE 365 with a 372 jug and a 201 T c-m.
It changed my life.
I got 64oz for free.
How did it smell ?
how do you like the 201tc-m?
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