Crank Seals on a 026.

cedarshark · Jan 22, 2010

The Stihl repair manual says you can pull/replace the crank seals on an 026 without splitting the case, but requires proprietary tools(puller) to do so. Can someone tell me if the seals can be replaced with conventional tools without splitting the case ?? Many Thanks !!

PS: I have no reason believe my seals are bad but plan to have a vac/pressure test done(Stihl dealer) after I get the new piston installed and would like to know what to tell him if the saw fails the test. I already have the seals in a gasket kit from Baileys.

firebenrt · Jan 22, 2010

From what I'm thinking- if you're going to have a stihl dealer do the vac/pressure test then you may have them do the seal(s) as well (if needed). They should have the tools to replace them without marring anything up. I do my own vac/press testing and replacing seals- but on occassion I'll mess up a seal when trying to put it in with a socket.

I find that trying to install aftermarket seals on an 026 is about as hard as it gets. The clutch side needs to be walked up and over the lip of the shaft, and the flywheel side is just tiny.

I've gotten to where I can pry out an old seal with a modified screwdriver (notched on the tip to make it hook shaped) and not mar anything up. I use a second screw driver to get a prying leverage point and just baby it out.

I know it's always satisfying to do something yourself- but having the dealer install an OEM seal while he's at it probably won't cost much, and it "should" be done correctly. I'd think OEM seals would last longer anyway. If you want, you can probably take the clutch and flywheel off for him to save some labor cost.

blsnelling · Jan 22, 2010

026 seals are not easy to pull, especially the flywheel side. That also seems to be the one that fails most often.
The problem is that they're so small that you can't get to them. I'd recommend having the dealer at least pull the old ones.

volks-man · Jan 22, 2010

i had asked about this recently in my own thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=117673&highlight=026+flywheel+seal+puller

this was my first time pulling any crank seals.
i was basically told theat the lisle puller i read about here on AS (look below) would not work. the lisle puller works fine. the only real hitch to it is that you need to gind the little hook end that gets under the seal narrower and to a slightly shorter protrusion.
after the mods, you tap the seal in tiny bit to break it free, and work your way around with the puller untill it is out.

the puller:
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/h8A0tenCLGw&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/h8A0tenCLGw&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

blsnelling · Jan 22, 2010

Check this out. LINK

cedarshark · Jan 22, 2010

volks-man said:
i had asked about this recently in my own thread.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=117673&highlight=026+flywheel+seal+puller

this was my first time pulling any crank seals.
i was basically told theat the lisle puller i read about here on AS (look below) would not work. the lisle puller works fine. the only real hitch to it is that you need to gind the little hook end that gets under the seal narrower and to a slightly shorter protrusion.
after the mods, you tap the seal in tiny bit to break it free, and work your way around with the puller untill it is out.

the puller:
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/h8A0tenCLGw&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/h8A0tenCLGw&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Volksman...Thanks for the link to your thread and nice job modifying the Lisle puller. Does modifying the puller to fit the 026 make it useless for a bigger saw with bigger seals ?

volks-man · Jan 22, 2010

cedarshark said:
Volksman...Thanks for the link to your thread and nice job modifying the Lisle puller. Does modifying the puller to fit the 026 make it useless for a bigger saw with bigger seals ?

i don't think so.
mine came with two replaceable jaw/arm/puller thingamajigs (the part that hooks the seal). i think they were the same size to start with, so after modding you have one for little'uns and one for big'uns.

btw: that isn't me and my modded puller in the video. thats just some vid from youtube.

rob066 · Jan 22, 2010

I have removed seals by installing small screws in them. Then pulling with needle nose visegrips.

cedarshark · Jan 22, 2010

blsnelling said:
Check this out. LINK

Brad.....excellent link to the seal pulling video and tuning video. I certainly appreciate your knowledge, hard work and sharing with others.

cedarshark · Jan 22, 2010

cedarshark said:
The Stihl repair manual says you can pull/replace the crank seals on an 026 without splitting the case, but requires proprietary tools(puller) to do so. Can someone tell me if the seals can be replaced with conventional tools without splitting the case ?? Many Thanks !!

PS: I have no reason believe my seals are bad but plan to have a vac/pressure test done(Stihl dealer) after I get the new piston installed and would like to know what to tell him if the saw fails the test. I already have the seals in a gasket kit from Baileys.

When I started this thread...I figured I did not have the tools or knowlege to do the vac/pressure test myself. Thanks to Brads video on seal pulling/pressure/vac test, I will get a vac pump and do this myself. Thanks again Brad !!

bigbadbob · Jan 22, 2010

My local dealer charged $50 to remove the flywheel and replace both seals.
Not so sure he will see my face again.

PogoInTheWoods · Jan 22, 2010

bigbadbob said:
My local dealer charged $50 to remove the flywheel and replace both seals.
Not so sure he will see my face again.

A bargain if he had to tear the saw down to the case on both sides -- and
actually did a good job with no leaks after the fact.

I just trashed a perfectly decent case last night going the homegrown route
'drilling a coupla holes and usin' sheet metal screws to pop it right out' like
I've seen explained here on several posts and I won't try it again.

Mebbe it works for lucky guys, or mebbe it's BS. All I know is there's gonna be
case damage to some degree that you'll either sneak past by driving the new seal deeper than normal to avoid it, or hillbilly rigging around the damage with even worse bandaids like lock-tite, RTV, or whatever else ya may have on the
shelf next to that drill and those screws ya thought were such a good idea to
begin with.

If you don't have the puller, TEAR THE SAW DOWN TO THE CRANK SEALS ON
BOTH SIDES AND HAVE A COMPETANT PRO DO THE JOB -- or have a spare
case and crank layin' around to give it another shot with a better drill and a
coupla smaller screws -- then try the other extra case and crank ya have....

Listen to the pro's, folks -- especially when it comes to the 026 flywheel side
crank seal. It's the biggest problem and biggest PITA that saw has exhibited all throughout its history.

Lessons ya learn the hard way are always the most expensive -- and the ones ya aren't likely to forget.

So...

Anyone have a spare 026 case (or two) layin' around for cheap? :cry:

Poge

pioneerguy600 · Jan 22, 2010

PogoInTheWoods said:
A bargain if he had to tear the saw down to the case on both sides -- and
actually did a good job with no leaks after the fact.

I just trashed a perfectly decent case last night going the homegrown route
'drilling a coupla holes and usin' sheet metal screws to pop it right out' like
I've seen explained here on several posts and I won't try it again.

Mebbe it works for lucky guys, or mebbe it's BS. All I know is there's gonna be
case damage to some degree that you'll either sneak past by driving the new seal deeper than normal to avoid it, or hillbilly rigging around the damage with even worse bandaids like lock-tite, RTV, or whatever else ya may have on the
shelf next to that drill and those screws ya thought were such a good idea to
begin with.

If you don't have the puller, TEAR THE SAW DOWN TO THE CRANK SEALS ON
BOTH SIDES AND HAVE A COMPETANT PRO DO THE JOB -- or have a spare
case and crank layin' around to give it another shot with a better drill and a
coupla smaller screws -- then try the other extra case and crank ya have....

Listen to the pro's, folks -- especially when it comes to the 026 flywheel side
crank seal. It's the biggest problem and biggest PITA that saw has exhibited all throughout its history.

Lessons ya learn the hard way are always the most expensive -- and the ones ya aren't likely to forget.

So...

Anyone have a spare 026 case (or two) layin' around for cheap?

Poge

Wowser, I must be one lucky fellow, couple dozen seal changes on the 026 and 260`s and no damaged seal bores yet, what am I doing wrong? LOL
Pioneerguy600

PogoInTheWoods · Jan 22, 2010

pioneerguy600 said:
Wowser, I must be one lucky fellow, couple dozen seal changes on the 026 and 260`s and no damaged seal bores yet, what am I doing wrong? LOL
Pioneerguy600

Not doing mine for me or posting video of your technique!

Funny how there don't seem to be any videos of the roll yer own versions for
popping these seals like everyone proclaims to be doing.

Hmmm. Gives me an idea.

pioneerguy600 · Jan 22, 2010

Just did one today but never thought of taking picts of such a benign
procedure. I prefer the hook method, leave the drill bits and screws for others.
Pioneerguy600

andrethegiant70 · Jan 22, 2010

PogoInTheWoods said:
Not doing mine for me or posting video of your technique!

Funny how there don't seem to be any videos of the roll yer own versions for
popping these seals like everyone proclaims to be doing.

Hmmm. Gives me an idea.

I feel your pain, brother. I have managed to yank a few with homespun methods, but they weren't near as daunting as the 026. Fortunately, most of the saws I rebuild are so completely trashed they need bearings also!

volks-man · Jan 22, 2010

i don't understand all this gloom and doom preached about the 026.
was i lucky?
prior to the 026, i had never pulled a seal on a saw, and have not since.
mine turned out just fine.

i am getting ready to try the same method on a 038. will the difficulties appear on that saw?

Steve K · Jan 23, 2010

I use the Lisle puller with the pulling lip narrowed all the time on 026's or 260's, takes less then a minute to pull both seals. The little seals on a 026 just pop right out with little effort. About a 10 minute job to pull them and install new ones.

Paul001 · Jan 23, 2010

cedarshark said:
When I started this thread...I figured I did not have the tools or knowlege to do the vac/pressure test myself. Thanks to Brads video on seal pulling/pressure/vac test, I will get a vac pump and do this myself. Thanks again Brad !!

Check the links in my sig for building pressure/vac testers.

Paul001 · Jan 23, 2010

volks-man said:
i don't understand all this gloom and doom preached about the 026.
was i lucky?
prior to the 026, i had never pulled a seal on a saw, and have not since.
mine turned out just fine.

i am getting ready to try the same method on a 038. will the difficulties appear on that saw?

Most saws I don't bother to pull my fancy $250 Stihl seal puller out of the box. Just use a modified screw driver. For the clutch side seal on an 026...even with they can be a SOB.

If you had luck with the Lisle, I might grab one to try out.

Crank Seals on a 026.

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