Crank Seals on a 026.

[bigbadbob]

I use the Lisle puller with the pulling lip narrowed all the time on 026's or 260's, takes less then a minute to pull both seals. The little seals on a 026 just pop right out with little effort. About a 10 minute job to pull them and install new ones.

Do you or someone have the part number for that Lisle puller.
Or a picture so I purchase one to do my own.
TIA
Bob

 

[Paul001]

Do you or someone have the part number for that Lisle puller.
Or a picture so I purchase one to do my own.
TIA
Bob

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Mangled Seal Removal Job

First shot at adding some pics, so here goes...

View attachment 122685

Stubborn rascal!

View attachment 122686

Tough to get a good shot with any real detail/dimension.

View attachment 122687

Not *quite* as bad as it looks and not as far down in the seat as it may seem.
Might be able to sneak the new seal down a smidge further than 1mm to actually hit relatively un-marred surface.

What say ye experts, cobblers, and wise old sages? Is it time for beer yet?

Poge

 

[cedarshark]

Do you or someone have the part number for that Lisle puller.
Or a picture so I purchase one to do my own.
TIA
Bob

Lisle 58430. Currently about $14 on Flea-Bay. I ordered one this morning.

 

[Paul001]

Lisle 58430. Currently about $14 on Flea-Bay. I ordered one this morning.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-3189-lisle-58430.aspx

Another place to check out.

 

[andrethegiant70]

First shot at adding some pics, so here goes...

View attachment 122685

Stubborn rascal!

View attachment 122686

Tough to get a good shot with any real detail/dimension.

View attachment 122687

Not *quite* as bad as it looks and not as far down in the seat as it may seem.
Might be able to sneak the new seal down a smidge further than 1mm to actually hit relatively un-marred surface.

What say ye experts, cobblers, and wise old sages? Is it time for beer yet?

Poge

We should probably go over this..... jackhammers are NOT approved for removing seals from chainsaws!! I think you're gonna need a new case there. I wouldn't sweat it too much, though, there seem to be oodles of them on Fleabay, used. Chalk it up to experience, and move on, no big deal.

 

[volks-man]

i don't understand all this gloom and doom preached about the 026.
was i lucky?
prior to the 026, i had never pulled a seal on a saw, and have not since.
mine turned out just fine.

i am getting ready to try the same method on a 038. will the difficulties appear on that saw?

update:

i tried the lisle puller on the clutch side of my 038 today.
the lisle puller will not work on this seal!
the metal of the seal is too close to the crankshaft to get the puller hook in and under.

i wound up using a big ole wood screw threaded in to a hole i drilled in the seal. i laid a block of wood over the crank end and grabbed the screw with pliers, levered down over a fulcrum placed on the wood block and it popped right out.

 

[Steve K]

update:

i tried the lisle puller on the clutch side of my 038 today.
the lisle puller will not work on this seal!
the metal of the seal is too close to the crankshaft to get the puller hook in and under.

i wound up using a big ole wood screw threaded in to a hole i drilled in the seal. i laid a block of wood over the crank end and grabbed the screw with pliers, levered down over a fulcrum placed on the wood block and it popped right out.

If you narrow up the tip with a file and roll it under the seal you can pull 038 seals, I have done it many times.

 

[volks-man]

If you narrow up the tip with a file and roll it under the seal you can pull 038 seals, I have done it many times.

it isn't that i don't believe you,
but i saw it not work.

i used the already narrowed tip i had modded for the 026 i replaced seals on.
the hook end would not slip/roll between the seal's metal and the crankshaft. i tried to grind the tip thinner and it wound up breaking off when i turned it vertical.

i decided not to risk that again in case i need the other puller tip for a 026 again and went to the screw method.

 

[bigbadbob]

Thanks for the info guys, will get one of the Lisle ones.

 

[walexa07]

What say ye experts, cobblers, and wise old sages? Is it time for beer yet?

Poge

I'm definitely no expert......but if it were me, I'd install the new seal to the proper depth, then clean the outer bore good and smear some 3bond all around the edges where the seal presses against the seal bore and let it set up. Then pressure/vac test it and I bet it would be good.

Just my opinion. I have used that 3bond to seal up engines and tranny cases on atv's and it seals up real well.

Waylan

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm definitely no expert......but if it were me, I'd install the new seal to the proper depth, then clean the outer bore good and smear some 3bond all around the edges where the seal presses against the seal bore and let it set up. Then pressure/vac test it and I bet it would be good.

Just my opinion. I have used that 3bond to seal up engines and tranny cases on atv's and it seals up real well.

Waylan

From what I've seen (read?), 'proper depth' seems like a relative term when it comes to pressing these seals home with a deep-well socket and a final tap with a hammer.

I used a small amount of Permatex hi-temp RTV around the outside edge of the seat (bore?) and then lightly tapped the seal into place. Didn't go in too straight for starters but trued up as it went further in -- way too easily and what appears to be way too deep into the seat.

So what are the implications of having the seal 'too deep' - provided it even passes the pressure/vac test when I get to that?

Poge

 

[pioneerguy600]

Flush to the seal bore is considered a good depth to leave the seal, a little further in if there is a visible groove mark starting on the crank. If the seal casing is not touching the ball bearings it should be ok.
Pioneerguy600

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

We should probably go over this..... jackhammers are NOT approved for removing seals from chainsaws!! I think you're gonna need a new case there.

You're right about the jackhammer. All it takes is a few simple tools and some patience and they "just pop right out".

Any questions?

 

[pioneerguy600]

I like the splitting wedge, just about the right weight. LOL
Pioneerguy600

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Outstanding result to a rookie seal replacement gone bad...

Ok. It did end up costing me 90 bux when it was all said and done, but shoulda probably cost me a whole lot more plus a case if my local guy wasn't as good as he is. Pretty amazing work considering how badly I butchered the initial job and case.

Poge

 

[AdamL]

I just replaced a set of seals in an 026 tonight at work... customer came the counter with his saw and I had it back in his hands within 20 min, did a leak down test and replaced both seals for $15 plus the seals.... Always helps to have the right tools to do the job, makes it so much easier.

 

[cedarshark]

I have just replaced the seals on an 026 and 041 with the modified Lisle puller that Volk-Man used. Worked well on both saws but I do not own an 038 so cannot comment. I would like to have the OEM puller, but refuse to pay that much for an infrequently used tool. I do know that the money saved by DIY paid for the $16 puller several times over.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

026 seals are not easy to pull, especially the flywheel side. That also seems to be the one that fails most often.
The problem is that they're so small that you can't get to them. I'd recommend having the dealer at least pull the old ones.

I have one right now that is about to drive me nuts! It is almost as if it is welded in. I can't get it to break free. Any suggestions???

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I have one right now that is about to drive me nuts! It is almost as if it is welded in. I can't get it to break free. Any suggestions???

Have you tried tapping one side in slightly with a small screwdriver to pop it loose?

If all else fails, check post #34.

Good luck with it.

Poge