Pro Mac 850 project

promac850 · Feb 13, 2011

First off, here is the link to the original thread, where I started the project. (for those who have not read it yet) http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=163638

Second off, I think I need a PBR for finially finishing a three day job of replacing a speedometer cable on my brother's CRX. :bang: Major PITA. I never swore that much working on a car before. It was about 4:1, 4 times the average amount of swears used for each one thing pissing me off, lol. No more squeaky (which later broke) cable now.

Now, we're going to talk about the McCulloch Pro Mac 850. I should have time to work on it over this week, and hopefully can get it close to done.

As for using the Indian Head gasket shellac, do I need to make a paper gasket, or can I just apply the Indian Head right onto the aluminum? Anyone know?

Also, does anyone use blue threadlocker on the cylinder bolts?

Thanks in advance to those who give some input. :cheers:

I recieved the handle from Heimann about a week ago, and it is in excellent shape. Thanks again Mark! :cheers:

RandyMac · Feb 13, 2011

I'm not much help, but I will monitor your progress.

brokenbudget · Feb 13, 2011

yes on the loc-tite. also make sure you use a good sealent OR even better, the proper washers if you can get them. otherwise you'll end up with a crankcase full of bar oil.

promac850 · Feb 13, 2011

brokenbudget said:
yes on the loc-tite. also make sure you use a good sealent OR even better, the proper washers if you can get them. otherwise you'll end up with a crankcase full of bar oil.

So, I'm guessing you're saying the Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound won't work.

I could pick up some Permatex gas resistant rtv at Autozone tomorrow if neccessary.

brokenbudget · Feb 13, 2011

never had any luck with any permatex products in this area for some reason.
some of these saws came with soft alloy washers and some came with a type made out of a fiberous material, never had luck with the fiber ones either.
i have used 3 bond with good results, seems to stick alot better than anything permatex makes. yamabond,3bond, same stuff.

heimannm · Feb 13, 2011

I have used Indian head with good results, others have suggested NOT to use an RTV silicone for the crank case. I have taken apart a number of saws that had been assembled with RTV, I think the biggest problem is the amount that squeezes out and where does it go? Obviously some must end up inside the crank case.

If there are some good bike shops (as in motor cycles) or snowmobile shops just stop by and see what they use.

Mark

Madsaw · Feb 13, 2011

Yeah you can Yamabond or the sealer from stihl too. But, why pay the inflated prices. I have been using permatex Ultra Grey. Only one in the permatex line that is gas safe. I am going to be watching this as too the fact I got to swap the bottom end on my 8200. The 850 long block I tore down for teh bottom was sealed up with a grey soft compund.
Bob

promac850 · Feb 13, 2011

Thanks for the tips heimann and Madsaw. :cheers:

I do know of a cycle shop nearby, I'll ask them tomorrow what they recommend. Otherwise, I'll probably use the Indian Head.

Madsaw · Feb 13, 2011

promac610 said:
Thanks for the tips heimann and Madsaw. I do know of a cycle shop nearby, I'll ask them tomorrow what they recommend. Otherwise, I'll probably use the Indian Head.

Just stop and get a tube of permatex Ultra grey. It just like Yamabond from Yamaha and what ever honda calls theirs. Also its very simialar to teh stihl sealer. The shellac I would not trust in this app. I normally use it when doing gaskets on tractors.
Bob

promac850 · Feb 13, 2011

Madsaw said:
Just stop and get a tube of permatex Ultra grey. It just like Yamabond from Yamaha and what ever honda calls theirs. Also its very simialar to teh stihl sealer. The shellac I would not trust in this app. I normally use it when doing gaskets on tractors.
Bob

I probably will need the Ultra Grey for other projects anyway, so I'll pick a tube up tomorrow. Now for preventing the stuff from oozing into the crankcase, do you put a thin bead shifted slightly towards the outside of the flange, and around the bolt holes?

For example...

________ <---outside of case
---------- <---sealant
________ <---flange
inside of case

Does that sound like a good idea, or would I just run into problems? I do want to keep rtv from getting into the crankcase, as best as I can.

thomas72 · Feb 13, 2011

I use Hondabond or the similar from the other imports. Good stuff! You might spend an extra $4.00 for the good stuff. Just me but I am not going to take the risk in messing up a saw on a few dollars.

promac850 · Feb 14, 2011

I bought a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey, and Ultra Blue. Also bought a roll of Fel-Pro cork/rubber gasket just for the heck of it. The purchase total was over $20, so another point on the Autozone rewards card.

As for what I'm going to use to seal the crankcase, the Ultra Grey will be hired.

Thanks again for the recommendations guys! :cheers:

Anyone have a suggestion for cleaning carbon deposits out of the top of the cylinder? (boiling won't work, as I don't have an old saucepan to use)

Thanks in advance.

promac850 · Feb 14, 2011

Anyone? Wow. This thread seems to be dead.

thomas72 · Feb 14, 2011

Once you wrote down Permatex everyone left. JK! Need to post some pictures of the restore. I just picked up a 8200 and will be coming in a couple of days.

promac850 · Feb 14, 2011

Well, I got up off of my slightly overweight ass and went out to the barn to work on the 850. Did quite a bit over the past whatever hours. Replaced the handlebar on the skid plate, if I may call it that. Here's a couple of pics...

Before:

After:

Thanks again Mark! :cheers:

Here's the fuel filter... do I need a new one? I don't think it's possible to remove the felt.

Here's the fuel tank. How do I get this crud out?

So far, I think I'm now about 44% done now, lol.

Lots of anal retentive parts cleaning.

I figure this saw deserves to be as clean as possible before she gets dirty all over again, especially since she had a life of cutting trees down in Washington a long time ago in the hands of a professional logger.

:cheers:

Madsaw · Feb 14, 2011

Looking good so far. Once I get the 8200 back up and going. I am going to look for a full wrap for it too. The handle that is on it is damaged so it does warrant to be replaced. I am just going to have fun getting a close grey paint to match the rest of the saw once I replace the oil tank unit.
Bob

8433jeff · Feb 14, 2011

The felt in the fuel filter is replaceable. Put a modern filter on and go.

promac850 · Feb 14, 2011

Madsaw said:
Looking good so far. Once I get the 8200 back up and going. I am going to look for a full wrap for it too. The handle that is on it is damaged so it does warrant to be replaced. I am just going to have fun getting a close grey paint to match the rest of the saw once I replace the oil tank unit.
Bob

Is it the same handle as mine? If so, I may be able to help you out. I am going to take the broken one with me to classes tomorrow and see if one the welding instructors can weld it. I know it's aluminum, just not sure which alloy. If you want, what we can do if it gets welded up and fixed, I can ship it to you.

promac850 · Feb 14, 2011

8433jeff said:
The felt in the fuel filter is replaceable. Put a modern filter on and go.

Now as for the modern filter, I'd have to cut the fuel line, I would rather not if I didn't have to. If a modern filter is significantly better than the felt filter, then I might do the swap. What modern filter would I need?

Madsaw · Feb 14, 2011

Yeah the 8200 is just the last version of this series of saws. I also have a SP81E too. It needs the carb redone and a majior cleaning. I got a 32" muccloch bar to put on it when its done. Kind of gotten the Pioneer/Pro Poulan bug the last few weeks though.
Thanks for the offer of the handle. I can put it on there. I have yet to weld aluminum. May set up the wire feed sometiem to do so. Or make a poor mans tig and use it.
Thanks
Bob

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