044 rebuild inspection

[Goat]

I tore into my 044 yesterday and I don't like what I'm finding...

Saw didn't feel very smooth when turning over. Found the starter pulley to be worn out and cracked. Still not smooth, cogging feeling as you turn it over. Though it might be piston or rings as there I saw some galling on the piston from the exhaust port. Popped the jug off and rings are intact and the piston has some galling but I think it's ok, I'll post a pic this evening. Still coggs when you turn it. So me thinks it's the crank bearings, waiting on flywheel puller to confirm.

While I had the jug off, the movement on the big end rod bearing doesn't seem right. What is the fit supposed to be like side to side? I have play and it doesn't feel normal but I have no reference to go by...

On a side note, does anyone have a digital service manual and/or IPL...this project just got much bigger than I thought it was going to be...

 

[Tzed250]

The side to side play is correct...needed so the rod can float. If there is any sort of roughness or binding when turning it over then the main bearings are probably shot, but check all possibilities. Pull the clutch and oiler so you can check both sides...

 

[RiverRat2]

also!!!!

The side to side play is correct...needed so the rod can float. If there is any sort of roughness or binding when turning it over then the main bearings are probably shot, but check all possibilities. Pull the clutch and oiler so you can check both sides...

The rod should not have any vertical end play, if it does you may as well look for another crank when getting your stuff together for your build,,,,

 

[chainsawjunky]

I don't know about the side to side. I assume none but I wouldn't know since I'm waitin on case to put mine back together. I have the IPL if you want to PM me your email address. I only have a print service manual though. Maybe I'll send it to you if I finish mine soon(should be done mid to late next week depending on when parts arrive). Evan

Edit: Go with the other guys on the crank I wouldn't know.

 

[Goat]

The rod should not have any vertical end play, if it does you may as well look for another crank when getting your stuff together for your build,,,,

Ya I know, I'm going to re-inspect tonight to make sure I didn't miss it the first time.

 

[Trigger-Time]

Goat, if their is a dealer around, take it to them (clean) and ask
what they think about the crank and bearings..........I went through
what you ar going through a few months back on a 066. It can
take some time and money if it needs a new crank or bearings.
With out the pullers and pushers, you just don't pop out the
old bearings and pop the new ones back in.

 

[chainsawjunky]

There are ways to do it without pushers and pullers. Evan

 

[Trigger-Time]

There are ways to do it without pushers and pullers. Evan

Yes their is ...........but you have to take time to make the stuff,
to do it......See link......Lakesides post #20

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40590&highlight=066

 

[Goat]

Goat, if their is a dealer around, take it to them (clean) and ask
what they think about the crank and bearings..........I went through
what you ar going through a few months back on a 066. It can
take some time and money if it needs a new crank or bearings.
With out the pullers and pushers, you just don't pop out the
old bearings and pop the new ones back in.

I appreciate the suggestion but I'm going to tackle it myself for the time being. If the crank needs to be replaced, then I'm going to bring this up to the AS member that sold me this saw.

 

[Trigger-Time]

I appreciate the suggestion but I'm going to tackle it myself for the time being.

Yes do it yourself ..........I meant for you to get their (dealer) opinion on the bearings.......you don't want to replace bearings if you don't have to.

 

[chainsawjunky]

Yes their is ...........but you have to take time to make the stuff,
to do it......See link......Lakesides post #20

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40590&highlight=066

The seals are hard to do. Otherwise you can do most of the bearings and crankshaft with an arbor press. I just hit the crankshaft on the clutch side with a hammer(I knew the crankshaft was junk already) that split the case and then I used arbor press to get it out other side. Haven't tried reassembly yet on the arbor press though. Evan

 

[Goat]

Thanks for the IPL...now I need the maint. manual.

 

[Lakeside53]

Don't hit anything with a hammer... or pry.. either use the correct tools or make something that simulates the correct methods.


Be careful what you feel when you rotate. Often the flywheel magnets acting on the coil can make the feel of a "gall" or "rough spot". Take off the coil and try it again.

Side to side play on the crank rod is usual. It's hard to say when it's "unreasonable" but you have a lot of leeway; they are either "o.k." or completely shot. In addition to the sideways movement, there is the "sideways rotational component" - i.e. hold it in one lateral position and check for play side to side with no sliding.

 

[Goat]

Be careful what you feel when you rotate. Often the flywheel magnets acting on the coil can make the feel of a "gall" or "rough spot". Take off the coil and try it again.

At first I thought that was it, but it cogs even when the magnets are 180 away from the coil. I will do as you suggest, sir, and report back.

 

[Goat]

Just an update, I checked out the big end bearing further and there is no vertical play. I looked at the end of the bearing cage on one side and then the other of cracks and the like while I was poking around. So, the bearing is good, IMHO. I pulled the coil, like lake suggested and it cogs, so it's definitely a crank bearing...

Here are some shots of the piston, what do you guys think.

Intake Side:

Exhaust Side:

 

[Trigger-Time]

Can you get any up and down play out of the crank at the fly wheel side
or clutch side of crank, with clutch drum removed.

I don't know why the scoring is on the clutch side.....best guess
that it is a crank beaning...........just a rookie guess.

 

[RiverRat2]

Carbon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just an update, I checked out the big end bearing further and there is no vertical play. I looked at the end of the bearing cage on one side and then the other of cracks and the like while I was poking around. So, the bearing is good, IMHO. I pulled the coil, like lake suggested and it cogs, so it's definitely a crank bearing...

Here are some shots of the piston, what do you guys think.

for one) who ever had it before ran a poor choice of premix and cheap low octane fuel,,, Way too much carbon,,,, but you may be lucky and it may just clean up,,, need to see more pix of the cyl....

 

[Goat]

for one who ever had it before ran a poor choice of premix and cheap low octane fuel,,, Way too much carbon,,,, but you may be lucky and it may just clean up,,, need to see more pix of the cyl....

I hope these are good enough, if they suck I'll beat on the digi cam until it takes a good one. Rat I know I found motor oil in the oil tank, not my #1 choice.

 

[RiverRat2]

Man that carbon buildup is nasty

I hope these are good enough, if they suck I'll beat on the digi cam until it takes a good one. Rat I know I found motor oil in the oil tank, not my #1 choice.

Is the scoring through the nikasil??? it doesnt look as though it is??? and I dont see any sign of aluminum transfer on the piston,,,, If you have some purple cleaner and can clean the carbon it will help to see but it appears from what I see if the Nikasil is still intact you may have dodged a bullet,,,, Some good cleaner solvent and an ultrasonic cleaning tank and a few hours and post more pix,,,,, the way its wiped on one side at intake and exhaust port edges almost looks like a big chunk of carbon got sandwiched at that side of the transfers....

R2'ed

 

[Goat]

There is a tiny amount of transfer to the jug, nothing to get panties in a bunch over. I'll scotch it out. The skirt on the piston is galled so I'll prolly end up replacing it just because I'm already there for another problem.

The nikasil on the jug is intact, the jug is definitely reusable. I'll dunk this in some purple power and head off to the shop to machine up a flywheel puller.