044 rebuild inspection

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pretty good guess I'd say trigger

Can you get any up and down play out of the crank at the fly wheel side
or clutch side of crank, with clutch drum removed.

I don't know why the scoring is on the clutch side.....best guess
that it is a crank beaning...........just a rookie guess.

Probably had something to do with it,,, from a recent experience,,, and what I found the clutch side generally takes the biggest beating,,,, and on one of my 066's I just tore down because the seal was gone out on the clutch side,,,, the bearing was much worse than the flywheel side,,,,,:blob2: :blob2: :blob2:
 
There is a tiny amount of transfer to the jug, nothing to get panties in a bunch over. I'll scotch it out. The skirt on the piston is galled so I'll prolly end up replacing it just because I'm already there for another problem.

The nikasil on the jug is intact, the jug is definitely reusable. I'll dunk this in some purple power and head off to the shop to machine up a flywheel puller.

heck ill take that piston if you dont want it,,,,,, LOL,,,,,,,
 
And the results are in

And the results are in...here is the clutch side crank bearing. Hmmm, fretting corrosion....

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Bad news is that I haven't heard back from the seller, I don't know if he is away or dogging me. Does AS do some kind of moderation for stuff bought through the trading post?
 
Where is the bearing cage?
Did it have one?

Have any trouble getting case apart?
 
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I removed the cage to get a better view inside the bearing. When I first pulled it out it was much worse...that photo is after a 5min run in a megasonic. Splitting the case went smooth. I cleaned the jug as well, all the nikasil is intact so jug is reusable.
 
I used the biggest bolt that would fit through the bearning
and over sized washers to press new fly wheel side bearning back in.
 
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Update

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Just an update...those are pics of my flywheel bearing. Much smoother running than the clutch, but check out all the crap.

I spoke to the seller and he's a stand up guy, sent me out a set of replacement bearings the same day. Going to get cracking on the reassembly tonight. Have to wait for the rest of my parts to get delivered to the dealer's before I can fully finish it. Can you believe that they don't stock many parts for 044 saws. Lame.

I just have a one question maybe Lake or someone can shed some light on. The bearings that I pulled out of my saw were shielded on one side. The replacements are not, they are open on both ends. I can see the thought behind the shielded bearings, in terms of protection for the roller elements in case foreign matter is ingested. On the other hand, open bearings would get more lubrication. So whats the story, did Stihl originally use shielded bearings and then switch?
 
I think then bearings that was in the saw are after market.

From what I have read here (AS) I'm 99.9% sure of it. :)

Also, good pictures.
 
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Have to wait for the rest of my parts to get delivered to the dealer's before I can fully finish it. Can you believe that they don't stock many parts for 044 saws. Lame.
It only takes 2 days for me to get parts to my dealer unless the parts are backordered(happened with a gasket once). He doesn't stock many parts except for hoses and normal maintenance stuff. Most of the stuff he says that he will he order along with a p/c kit since it will usually be a major rebuild. I'm happy since parts don't take very long.

Evan
 
actually Trigger there were some shields put on from the factory,,,

I think then bearings that was in the saw are after market.

From what I have read here (AS) I'm 99.9% sure of it. :)

Also, good pictures.

In the early 044 saws the bearings they used had the shields already but they discontinued them from about the time just before or a little after the 10MM- 12MM wrist pin change and none of the later models have shields,,,,,,

But Im sure Lakeside53 will straighten us all out!!!!!!
 
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If it's not one thing it's another

Well the bearings & seals are in and the case is back together. Note to self, do not crack the beers open until the case is bolted together and the bearings turn freely.

I'm missing the o-ring that sits inside the big diameter end of the pump spacer bushing. IPL doesn't list the o-ring, pisser. I matched up a -013 and it fits in nicely, but I want to confirm. Anyone know the metric size (prolly DIN 3771 std)?
 

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