050 051 075 076 Info Thread

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I'm not sure I understand. First this is sn 076 right? So there should be 4 long studs that go though the jug. Are you saying that a helicoil is missing? If the jug bolts on its an 051 , 52 mm piston, 076 58 mm piston? I have to go back and look at your parts.
 
So I just went back like 5 pages and it looks like when you split the cases on your 076 that there were only 3 studs. 2 in one case and 1 in the other. So is that what you need? I actually have a miss matched set where one got destroyed. The best saw builder on eBay actually paid me more for a used set than he could buy new because they had already been torqued and heated. He said new ones he would have to run the saw, then dismantle the rear handle and re torque the head nuts. Anyway I have an extra I can gladly drop in the mail if that's what your looking for. Also make sure the threads are good, if not a keensert or timesert will be needed, I would not trust a helicoil in that application, B
 

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actually I need the female threaded piece that goes in the hole in the crankcase for the end of the cylinder bolt to thread into
I will snap a pic in the morning
there were only three cylinder bolts in this head and I didn't realize that the fourth hole didn't have threads in it
Dave
yes it is an 075/076, with long studs
 
Sounds like there was a timesert in it that came out. Another Option is the keensert which works very well. There is a thread in the chainsaw forum within the first four pages on keenserts. The studs must have stripped out at one point. I have put immense torque on a 5mm keensert and it holds great. Do not helicoil. Some say timesert is better but if it was better it would still be in the case.
 
I've heard the timeserts are far superior to the helicoil approach. Guess I need to read up on the keenserts! Been fortunate enough so far to not need to use em and only have one saw (old Lombard) with a helicoil in it for the sparkplug threads. Seems sorta shaky, but serves the particular purpose. I wouldn't use one for your application, tho.
 
The thing I like about the keensert is that no special tools are required. They are affordable. they hold better. They may not not as pretty but are you going to take the saw apart to show your friends the threads that hold it together. The timesert works on pressure. screw the screw in far enough, it puts pressure at the end and that locks it in place. whos to say when the two dissimaler metals corrode togther that the timesert will not back out when stud is removed, which it may have. The keensert has metal keys which are hammered through the threads on the outside of the insert locking it in place like a woodruff key. It will not rotate!!!!! Simple yet flawless, imho :)
 
Darrel is that lower handle still holding you up? If it is, I can send you one to get you going, just replace it when you can. I have a couple good ones ( and a few messed up ones :) ), just need a good sanding and paint.
 
saw him live a few times, most recently on the sam and dave tour with Sammy hagar :)

Well...., I sure as hell hope you missed him on Jimmy Kimmel last night. Unfortunately..., I didn't. Yikes.

Looked like Eddie and Alex dragged his ass out of a refrigerator box from under a bridge somewhere. I was shocked, actually.

But I digress..., where's that carb you're gonna send me for the USC treatment and rebuild? And what app did your wife use to convert the scans of those manuals into the handful of .pdf documents you originally sent me? I'm still working on getting the .jpgs converted to individual .pdf files to be merged into collective .pdf documents of each manual. Just finding the freebie apps I'm using a bit short on formatting flexibility. Haven't tried the free online services yet , but know they're another option also.
Would simply like to finally make all these manuals available to everyone in a practical/usable format. My end result is still just a little klunky doing it the way I doing it now.
 
Your a good man pogo, we are all going to benefit from this. I appreciate it! Pdf's obviously are the best, easiest ways to open and search info (I think) so its going to be great!

I did a bad thing today. I coughed up the 80$ for a case splitter. I'm just tired of rigging up my snap on puller with metric threaded rods,washers, wood blocks to keep it straight, heating, praying I dont strip or break anything, just an overall pita. I got one from Dave thats going to take some effort to split and when I watched Brads video popping both cases in 60 secs I was sold lock, stock and barrel. I used my 10% off certificated for powermowersales (TY15 code at checkout) and got it shipped for 81. I know, next you guys are going to talk me into buying the clutch wrenches,.....
 
5/32's for an 066 and it was still snug to the point of needing to be tapped down around the crank to actually sneak into the case.

These splitters are tough and well made, but ya need to be careful spreading the fingers and consider where you're applying the stress and leverage to forcibly spread the fork relative to the welds. And it takes some serious leverage to spread the fingers....trust me. (I didn't use any heat which may have helped.)

Clamp it in a vise just above the welds to allow the most flex in the fingers and the least stress on the welds. Best scenario would be to also use a snug spacer between the fingers just above the welds to minimize opposing inward flex at the bottom of the fingers as leverage is applied at the top, but hey, ya roll with what ya got and take you're chances otherwise. Let's just say in the absence of such a spacer, I was impressed by the strength of the welds considering the amount of force required between the fingers just to gain an 1/8th inch or so of extra spread.

Go slowly spreading em with a long-ass spud bar....and you will have to put your ass into it. Otherwise if ya have a short enough steel splitting wedge, carefully drive it down between the fingers for the desired spread.

Also, they're meant to be used in a vise, not in the ham fisted manner Snelling demonstrated it in his video (if it's the video I'm thinking of). Regardless, I don't think you'll regret the purchase.

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Thank you so much for the pics and taking the time to post the advice. Im guessing the press is cold rolled steel and not aluminum (I hope)??? I do like the advice of using it in a vice. The cases im dealing with i cannot afford to drop on the concrete floor and break a tab or crack something. I'll take my time, just want to do it in less than an hour,lol

Heres a case splitter I made 7 years ago. Works well on the 045's. I figure if I cut a slot down the middle where the two holes are I could slide it and adjust to many different cases. It obviously only would do one side, but now I have the press. Even so that risks putting stress on the case halve. Looking forward to the new tool.
 

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