290-390 Conversion / Any speciality tools needed??

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HusqyStihl

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Ive got my parts comin, 2 MS290's gonna rip one down at a time. Question is, do i need any "speciality" tools (besides beer) to swap the head to 390 top-end??

Also, anything/tricks i should know about assembly/disassembly for these conversions??

**Mufller mods already done, and re-tuned. I'd assume id have to re-tune after the swap?? Is there an oiler upgrade to accomodate bigger bars?? Currently running a 20" 3/8's on my MM'd 290 with zero issues. Can i go larger with a bigger pump??
 
No, it's a screw in and you'll probally wreck it on removal.
I think mine was Locktited in, should have tried using some heat to break the bond.
The rear bar stud is cheep by Stihl prices, about $5.
Rottsa Ruck on your rebuild, it's pretty easy to do.
 
I've removed tons of the studs and never ruined one. I usually can get them out by double nutting them but have also used a channellock multiple times. If you use a channellock (about a 430 size works well) grip it close to the body of the saw. It will screw up the threads some but guess what? those threads aren't needed as the bar and clutch cover extend past that area.

You'll need a good quality T-27 Torx (I use one with a drill driver as it really speeds things up) Hand torque the reassembly, not with a power tool.

An impact works well to take the clutch off. (I use an air driven 3/8 butterfly) remember it's backwards threads on the clutch and regular threads on the flywheel.

To remove the flywheel, I loosen the nut with a 1/2" 3/8" drive deep well socket. (it's 13mm but the 1/2" fits a little tighter) Then I hand screw the nut back down and then back it off about 1 full turn. I then get a good grip 0n the base of a flywheel fin with a pair of duck bill pliers and holding the saw a couple inches off the bench I give the socket a hefty whack with a 12 oz brass hammer. One hit will typically loosen the flywheel.

On reassembly, I put the engine together, let it sit overnight and then pressure test it the next day before I assemble the engine into the engine housing. (it takes some spacers/bushings to take up the bolt length)

Everything else is undo what you did previously. If it's an aftermarket cylinder, many of these have the wrong size hole where the coil wire goes onto the cylinder. Use a #10 coarse screw in this spot.

Be sure to install the impulse line on the new cylinder before you get it all assembled as it's hard later.

Yes, retune when finished and go cut wood.
 
Thinking of doing the 390 to a 290 that was just gave to me . What kit are you using?
 
I've removed tons of the studs and never ruined one. I usually can get them out by double nutting them but have also used a channellock multiple times. If you use a channellock (about a 430 size works well) grip it close to the body of the saw. It will screw up the threads some but guess what? those threads aren't needed as the bar and clutch cover extend past that area.

You'll need a good quality T-27 Torx (I use one with a drill driver as it really speeds things up) Hand torque the reassembly, not with a power tool.

An impact works well to take the clutch off. (I use an air driven 3/8 butterfly) remember it's backwards threads on the clutch and regular threads on the flywheel.

To remove the flywheel, I loosen the nut with a 1/2" 3/8" drive deep well socket. (it's 13mm but the 1/2" fits a little tighter) Then I hand screw the nut back down and then back it off about 1 full turn. I then get a good grip 0n the base of a flywheel fin with a pair of duck bill pliers and holding the saw a couple inches off the bench I give the socket a hefty whack with a 12 oz brass hammer. One hit will typically loosen the flywheel.

On reassembly, I put the engine together, let it sit overnight and then pressure test it the next day before I assemble the engine into the engine housing. (it takes some spacers/bushings to take up the bolt length)

Everything else is undo what you did previously. If it's an aftermarket cylinder, many of these have the wrong size hole where the coil wire goes onto the cylinder. Use a #10 coarse screw in this spot.

Be sure to install the impulse line on the new cylinder before you get it all assembled as it's hard later.

Yes, retune when finished and go cut wood.

You the man!!
 
Can i ask why you would downsize power from the 390 to 290???
I'm not, but as I went back to read my post it sounds like thats what I'm doing lol. I'm going to do the same as you and convert a 290 to a 390. Sorry for the confusion.
 
I'm not, but as I went back to read my post it sounds like thats what I'm doing lol. I'm going to do the same as you and convert a 290 to a 390. Sorry for the confusion.

73$ a kit for the 390 top end conversion, not bad at all!

And after all my orders, shipping came to 7$!!
 
Personally, although there is a power increase, I wouldn't take apart a good running 290 for an upgrade. I also would not build up a 290 without upgrading it if I needed to do engine work. I usually upgrade saws that have scored pistons. Often times the cylinders can be salvaged and a new piston could fix it but I don't bother. Thus I have a supply of 029 cylinders.... On most of this series saw, when I get in a non runner, I completely disassemble the entire saw and clean all the parts and put them in the appropriate bins. When I build these saws up, I do it in stages and it would be possible for a saw to have parts from half a dozen different ones. I try to use all nice parts on one saw and all ratty parts on another and then price them accordingly. I change out any badly worn parts and stock most items for this model so I have a supply of items to draw from. I usually reuse the Stihl fuel lines as the aftermarket ones don't work very well. (only about half don't have issues) Most everything else I inspect and if it's good I reuse it, if it's not I deep six it and get a new one or another used one. Right now I have a bunch of built up engines in engine housings but don't have enough good plastic to complete saws. I'll just wait until some more parts saws come along. My next project is going to be building up some 1123 series saws which are similar but smaller. I haven't done many of those yet but have parts gathered up to complete a half dozen of them. (that's the 021, MS210, MS230, MS250, 025, etc.) I also have some MS460 and MS660 saws to do. I'd like to get some of those done before the May 30 Georgia GTG but just don't know when I'll have a chance. Grass is growing, stuff needs fixing and saws are pretty far down the priority list.
 
I just cant help myself, always love taking saws apart and building them up. I see alot of 290's so im dyin to play with em. Next i would love to build a 661R tho
 
Personally, although there is a power increase, I wouldn't take apart a good running 290 for an upgrade. I also would not build up a 290 without upgrading it if I needed to do engine work. I usually upgrade saws that have scored pistons. Often times the cylinders can be salvaged and a new piston could fix it but I don't bother. Thus I have a supply of 029 cylinders.... On most of this series saw, when I get in a non runner, I completely disassemble the entire saw and clean all the parts and put them in the appropriate bins. When I build these saws up, I do it in stages and it would be possible for a saw to have parts from half a dozen different ones. I try to use all nice parts on one saw and all ratty parts on another and then price them accordingly. I change out any badly worn parts and stock most items for this model so I have a supply of items to draw from. I usually reuse the Stihl fuel lines as the aftermarket ones don't work very well. (only about half don't have issues) Most everything else I inspect and if it's good I reuse it, if it's not I deep six it and get a new one or another used one. Right now I have a bunch of built up engines in engine housings but don't have enough good plastic to complete saws. I'll just wait until some more parts saws come along. My next project is going to be building up some 1123 series saws which are similar but smaller. I haven't done many of those yet but have parts gathered up to complete a half dozen of them. (that's the 021, MS210, MS230, MS250, 025, etc.) I also have some MS460 and MS660 saws to do. I'd like to get some of those done before the May 30 Georgia GTG but just don't know when I'll have a chance. Grass is growing, stuff needs fixing and saws are pretty far down the priority list.
A friend just gave me an 028 wood boss and an 029 super. I've got the 028 up and running but the 029 unfortunately has a scored piston and a cylinder that can't be cleaned up. So I'm looking for an AM 390 kit. Any suggestions on 'the best kit out there'? I've searched a little for info but it seems most kits have had some issues. My crank and bearings feel good so I don't necessarily need an assembled kit.
 

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