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TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Yes.
Also your transfer divider shouldn't have a sharp edge. Here is a pic of a 371 I just did for reference.
Thank you for the picture! Now that I think about it, I understand why the divider shouldn't have a sharp edge....the air doesn't flow that way.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Finished muffler with the factory port opened up...
I know that this will possibly be a bottle neck in the whole saw, we will see how it turns out though.
Yes, I have printed off a degree wheel to have a crack at this porting thing the right way....
I know that this will possibly be a bottle neck in the whole saw, we will see how it turns out though.
Yes, I have printed off a degree wheel to have a crack at this porting thing the right way....
AUSSIE1
Al.
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Great job on the muffler Mike.
This is all that needs to be done for a basic woods port.
That brow can come up a bit more.
This is all that needs to be done for a basic woods port.
That brow can come up a bit more.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Nightly update
I think I have the lower transfers and the cylinder skirt done, please let me know if I have missed something...
A couple questions:
Is there anyway to keep the carbide bits from clogging up with aluminum??
Would it be safe to start intake and exhaust porting with the old piston for reference? I have a Meteor on it's way.
I think I have the lower transfers and the cylinder skirt done, please let me know if I have missed something...
A couple questions:
Is there anyway to keep the carbide bits from clogging up with aluminum??
Would it be safe to start intake and exhaust porting with the old piston for reference? I have a Meteor on it's way.
AUSSIE1
Al.
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If you spray the work with WD40/CRC occasionally, it will keep the burs clog free. If your bur is clogged, just spray the job and continue cutting and eventually it will clear.
On the chain side, the inside of the transfer is slightly restricted compared to the flywheel side. Match this to the opposite side.
If you draw a line from the edge of one transfer to the other side, I remove all material including offending cyl, Your job is looking great.
On the chain side, the inside of the transfer is slightly restricted compared to the flywheel side. Match this to the opposite side.
If you draw a line from the edge of one transfer to the other side, I remove all material including offending cyl, Your job is looking great.
wigglesworth
Booned
Slow the bit down some, and the clogging will stop.
AUSSIE1
Al.
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In this pic the cyl at the trans is taken up 5mm above the base.
parrisw
Tree Freak
You can get burrs made for alu that don't clog, I have a couple and they were just called alumacut bits? Don't know why, but they never clog, and I don't have to lube anything while grinding.
Nice work so fay BTW.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Thanks guys! I worked on the transfers more (with lube) and they look much better. The chain side was much more restricted, so I tried to make them match the other side.
So what are your thoughts on porting with the old piston? Should I wait for the new one??
So what are your thoughts on porting with the old piston? Should I wait for the new one??
parrisw
Tree Freak
I don't know? I would assume you will be fine, since the piston doesn't really have skirts and you can go fairly wide. But my first feeling is that you should wait till you have the piston that you will be running, just in case! I know its hard to wait, I feel the same way when doing this stuff.
wigglesworth
Booned
Yes, wait for the piston. The 044 Meteor piston I have has wider skirts than OEM.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Piston just showed up, I guess I'll putting some holes in it tonight.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
I weighed the piston before....
and after doing the windows...
Just a little weight trimmed off.
The windows turned out pretty good...
except for one little mishap with the Dremel...
I wasn't very happy but it doesn't look like it will hurt anything. It is in the exhaust port and it's smooth, I'll call it a speed dent.
and after doing the windows...
Just a little weight trimmed off.
The windows turned out pretty good...
except for one little mishap with the Dremel...
I wasn't very happy but it doesn't look like it will hurt anything. It is in the exhaust port and it's smooth, I'll call it a speed dent.
wigglesworth
Booned
except for one little mishap with the Dremel...
I wasn't very happy but it doesn't look like it will hurt anything. It is in the exhaust port and it's smooth, I'll call it a speed dent.
ROFL...Speed dent. LOL
Looking good. Do you charge extra for the speed dents?
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
I checked the squish without a base gasket, it's .029"
I will mill a .020" pop-up on the piston and then machine .030" off the base of the cylinder. That should put me around .020" squish when done without a base gasket. Does anybody think I should machine a little more so I can use a gasket??
I will mill a .020" pop-up on the piston and then machine .030" off the base of the cylinder. That should put me around .020" squish when done without a base gasket. Does anybody think I should machine a little more so I can use a gasket??
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
Nothing extra, speed dents are free!!
I was ok with it for my first time. It would have been a mess if I didn't have a layer of tape on it to protect it!!!
wigglesworth
Booned
I usually do. Call me cautious, but I like to use base gaskets.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
You missed that part right there though!!!
If you forget that your saw will never run right.
Mike
If you forget that your saw will never run right.
Mike
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
WTF?? Missed what?
