KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
I just go by what my eyes tell me when i pull something apart
U gotta run 50 weight 100% ester oil or its gonna blow your stuff up!!!I just go by what my eyes tell me when i pull something apart
Yes and they sell a ton of them. In fact they sell alot more than the Japanese brands by a huge margin.Ktm still produces them I think
My son ran a ktm65 that was awesome!! Ran Yamalube 2r and Honda hp2 in it. Parts for thoso KTMs r astronomical!!Yes and they sell a ton of them. In fact they sell alot more than the Japanese brands by a huge margin.
i used it a few yrs back because it was good oil but now it is expensive oil.Motul 710 is JASO-FD with a viscosity very close to Stihl hp ultra. Anybody using Husky XP oil? It's also a FD certification.
They gotta make up thoso 40000 yen they paid to certify it!! Lol!!i used it a few yrs back because it was good oil but now it is expensive oil.
Keep in mind alot of the oils you refer to as good would not pass those tests. Some would if course, but oils like 800t, r50, H1r etc would not.
Looking at the msds it's easy to see this isn't true. They are night and day different.I spoke with a Motul Rep. over a year ago when Keith (KG441) and I were trying to decide on a 2-cycle oil for our ported chainsaws. The Rep. said 710 and 800 use the same base oil but they use an improved detergent (additive package) in the 800. If this is true, the 800 series would certify as FD since 710 is. He also recommended 710 over 800 in my chainsaws. I've been using 800 off-road with great results but it might be overkill in film strength. I need to test both in my ported, non-mtronics, saws.
That's why I would like to compare 710, 800, and a few chainsaw FD oils. If 800 is overkill, Klotz R50 is even more overkill. Downside....performance?Looking at the msds it's easy to see this isn't true. They are night and day different.
It seems alot of you guys look at running these high film strength oils as overkill with no downside, but there are downsides.
Best I remember the Rep. saying is go with the 800, rather than 710, if your 2-stroke has power valves. Motorcycles have them but chainsaws doesn't?? The 800 has a better detergent for keeping them clean. Guess I need to try 800 vs 710 vs Husky XP 2-cycle oil at 32:1 and 40:1.......performance and film strength.Looking at the msds it's easy to see this isn't true. They are night and day different.
It seems alot of you guys look at running these high film strength oils as overkill with no downside, but there are downsides.
The reason may be due to it's lower viscosity index (VI) . A higher VI, like Motul 710, may not show that trait. 710 is a "thinner" oil than 800.i tried the 800 in my trimmers and blowers and i noted the equipment needs to warm up otherwise it slobbers i think this oil has a hard time burning in a cold engine.
the oil must have a flash point of around 500 degrees.
800 has a a really high ash content for a two cycle oil, meaning that it has alot of zinc and calcium antiwear/detergent additives. While at face value this sounds like a good thing, mettalic ash is what causes plug fouling and pre ignition causing deposits.Best I remember the Rep. saying is go with the 800, rather than 710, if your 2-stroke has power valves. Motorcycles have them but chainsaws doesn't?? The 800 has a better detergent for keeping them clean. Guess I need to try 800 vs 710 vs Husky XP 2-cycle oil at 32:1 and 40:1.......performance and film strength.
It really has nothing to do with that. VI index is resistance to change in viscosity with changes in temp.The reason may be due to it's lower viscosity index (VI) . A higher VI, like Motul 710, may not show that trait. 710 is a "thinner" oil than 800.
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