661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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I like 2R because it has a track record in very demanding applications, applications much tougher than a saw, going back to the early 80's. It's available from any Yamaha dealer for between $8 and $12 per quart, which is an excellant value. If your carb tuning is on it burns very clean. I have seen Kt-100 karts ran on it at 16:1 with c-12 and the looked perfect with no discoloration below the rings, no metalic deposits on the crown and no build up in the exhaust port or pipe. It uses toluene as a diluent so you don't have the problem of introducing low octane diluent into a motor where the cause deposits and loss of octane. It also has great protection against rust which most ester oils do not. This is important to me as my saws sometimes sit in a humid climate. It will also withstand more heat and stress than a saw can thow at it and has a long track record doing so yet still burn clean.
Why not the esters?
 
bwalker said: ↑
Would not run r50, h1r or 800.
Why?

Ok then start with this.. A lot of guys run these.
Because they offer little to no corrosion protection, they burn dirty and they aren't needed in a saw application so why bother with them given the above mentioned . 800 is good oil in other higher stressed applications, H1R is pretty bad IME and r50 is somewhere in between.
 
Why does that piston look bad to you?
Because I said so. Because others said so. We went over that piston in the first few pages of this thread
Because its black and crusty after 13 tanks and mine looks new after 50 tanks
I grow tired of your riddled answers ......... why not just answer a question directly ?

I got it now Brush Ape
 
Why dont u like r50,h1r, 800t?
See the comment I made above.
I don't have a problem with esters per se as MX2T was a ester oil and one of the best two cycle oils ever produced. I have also used and liked Motorex, which i believe to be ester based.However esters are not the be all and end all of two cycle lubrication. In fact you see more PIB and mineral blends that are actually ISO-.EGD certified.
 
Because I said so. Because others said so. Because its black and crusty after 13 tanks and mine looks new after 50 tanks
I grow tired of your riddled answers ......... why not just answer a question directly ?
Let's see a pic of yours?
The piston doesn't look too bad. Looks like it was ran a little lean that's all.
 
Where is evidence and documentation of this? Dirty burning it's in direct conflict with everything I've read of them.
Brad, I have seen it with my own eyes and I have posted pics.. your a smart guy think about why a oil that has a very high end point, may not burn clean..
And your probably reading mostly regurgitated marketing. They all say they burn clean, but many don't, even in applications much tougher than saws.
 
One other thing. You know that mx2t is good stuff because I introduced it too this site years ago. You know redline causes corrosion issues because I discovered them after it first came out years ago.
 
Brad, I have seen it with my own eyes and I have posted pics.. your a smart guy think about why a oil that has a very high end point, may not burn clean..
And your probably reading mostly regurgitated marketing. They all say they burn clean, but many don't, even in applications much tougher than saws.
Most of what I'm reading is in forums and 3rd party testing. The problem is that most all of it is in engines with much higher BMP. There is simply nothing out there for our application. We're all wierdos, lol.

Define dirty burning. Crown, CC, skirts, bottom of crown, transfers, exhaust port, or what?
 
Most of what I'm reading is in forums and 3rd party testing. The problem is that most all of it is in engines with much higher BMP. There is simply nothing out there for our application. We're all wierdos, lol.

Define dirty burning. Crown, CC, skirts, bottom of crown, transfers, exhaust port, or what?
Those things along with blowing all the oil out the exhaust.
 
Because they offer little to no corrosion protection, they burn dirty and they aren't needed in a saw application so why bother with them given the above mentioned . 800 is good oil in other higher stressed applications, H1R is pretty bad IME and r50 is somewhere in between.


esters burn dirty. omg LMAO!!!!!!!
 
Anyone think if running a castor based oil at 40:1 would keep things a tad cleaner? Just wondering is all.

Sent from my non internal combustion device.
 

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