Not n-octane. 2,2,4-trimethyl pentane. Two different isomers with different chemical properties.
87 octane in ms270?
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Not n-octane. 2,2,4-trimethyl pentane. Two different isomers with different chemical properties.
I like that one too... however it seemed like bringing up that there are two different versions that are compared was asking for more trouble.
Yes, iso-octane and n-heptane are what get blended and compared and is why we get into this region of ethanol content and similar ratings.
Do we open up the bag on how hit and miss work now?
I am aware of the formulas, but what does one need to consistently make chips fly out the back side of a saw for more than five years or is five years the limit. Thanks
Ted Jenkins a very well written excellent explanation in lay mans terms.
Well done.
Kash
Well done.
Kash
super rube
ArboristSite Lurker
I’ve used a 2000 model 372xp for now 20 years cutting probably 10 cords of firewood per year not counting side jobs. Only used 87 octane with stihl ultra oil. Same plug same air filter same starter rope. I completely clean my saw after every chain replacement and only use stihl or husky chain oil. Has the original sprocket by the way. It may fly apart tomorrow but I have no complaints at all. Synthetic oil I believe is the key
notmyj
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm a 100LL AvGas guy. Crazy long storage ability, ethanol free, pretty blue color, doubles as air freshener. It's also the closest non ethanol, and it cheaper than the next closest non ethanol. My saws, blowers, trimmers etc can be sitting for months at a time. I keep everything topped off before I store it.
Never had moisture issues nor hoses, primers, plastics get brittle and break. Never had a clogged or gummed up carb. Never seen that white powdery substance from the ethanol/aluminum interaction either. One saw (357xp) sat with a full tank for nearly 2 years. It fired up within a few pulls, and it ran without issue.
To each their own, this works for me. It's worth it to me for never having ethanol issues, varnish, water, or storage issues. For me, it has nothing to do with performance (although the new project may actually need the higher octane). If it costs me a bit of power running that much octane, it's worth it to me for the other benefits.
Never had moisture issues nor hoses, primers, plastics get brittle and break. Never had a clogged or gummed up carb. Never seen that white powdery substance from the ethanol/aluminum interaction either. One saw (357xp) sat with a full tank for nearly 2 years. It fired up within a few pulls, and it ran without issue.
To each their own, this works for me. It's worth it to me for never having ethanol issues, varnish, water, or storage issues. For me, it has nothing to do with performance (although the new project may actually need the higher octane). If it costs me a bit of power running that much octane, it's worth it to me for the other benefits.
100LL would be a flat non-starter for me, I'm not breathing lead. Got enough health issues without trying to get more. I would accept all the down sides of pump gas before going that route.
Remember it's only low lead compared to other avgas, it's ~double the lead of leaded automotive gas of previous years.
Remember it's only low lead compared to other avgas, it's ~double the lead of leaded automotive gas of previous years.
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An octane thread!!!!
Octane smocktane!!!!
Just use regular!!!!!
Octane smocktane!!!!
Just use regular!!!!!
All chainsaws are designed to run on any pump gas from 87 to 93 octane. I run regular when I'm gonna use up what I have mixed so it doesn't sit for very long. I always run my saws dry before I store them. If I need to mix a batch that will sit for awhile then I use e free fuel thats 92 octane. I have ran U4.4 race fuel that is 105 octane. I do notice the higher the octane the more power my saws have. I can bear down a bit harder before it stalls out with high octane fuels. If your not gonna let the fuel sit then regular pump fuel is fine. Again it depends on how I'm gonna use the fuel as to what fuel I use.
Yes it does seem to have more power with higher octane fuel. It's not a bunch more power but it does seem noticeable. It's most noticeable with 105 octane race fuel. Not so much between 87 and 93.
There is so much nonsense being passed of as fact in this thread I dont know where to start.
Explain the nonsense. I build 2stroke race motors for various shops in US, Europe, Australia, Japan, etc and and it covers multiple categories and cc ranges (rc model cars/boats/planes, dirt bikes, snowmobiles, etc, and others)
Curious about your knowledge on this.
Are you referring to variables or what?
stock or modified?
Such as?
How about this gem.
"There are two numbers that make up pump fuel unless it is marked race or aviation: RON and MON. Race and aviation are RON only numbers."
Race fuel is typically marketed using the R+M/2 method. Aviation fuel uses a completely different rating system based lean/rich mixture. 100LL avgas is rated at 100/130 on the lean rich scale. MON roughly correlates with the lean mixture rating up to 100 .
Sounds like science!
As a lifelong skeptic and doubter I always wonder if I should believe what the tag on the pump says as far as octane and ethanol content. Ethanol test kit is cheap but octane? Then again I am not in the business of making 2-cycle toys go faster, but interested in reliability of saw motors. Sometimes its so danm wet here that buying that canned synthetic gasoline is THE option.
I dont know if this is to be trusted either, but Wikipedia says the last three countries with leaded gasoline widely available for cars is Algeria, Yemen, and Iraq.
As a lifelong skeptic and doubter I always wonder if I should believe what the tag on the pump says as far as octane and ethanol content. Ethanol test kit is cheap but octane? Then again I am not in the business of making 2-cycle toys go faster, but interested in reliability of saw motors. Sometimes its so danm wet here that buying that canned synthetic gasoline is THE option.
I dont know if this is to be trusted either, but Wikipedia says the last three countries with leaded gasoline widely available for cars is Algeria, Yemen, and Iraq.
Man I'm boring. My equipment is stock, I run whatever the manual says to run, I don't worry about it and get on with my life.
That’s great! If you don’t do any major mods it will work fine. Tell us more about your diesel Benz swapped Toyota. I delve into the obscure (by normal “standards”) as well
