A R E A 51 Husq 365..."Here We Go!"

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I'm just looking for evidence to prove that it's worth while to add finger ports. I've never used them, so have no personal experience with them. I've heard it's not worth the trouble. I would think that the transfer duct would have a be a bottle neck for them to give a gain. There's nothing like trying something for yourself though, so I was hoping you had evidence to show them a reasonable mod. I'd honestly like to know.
 
Be careful what you wish for...

My evidence will be in the form of hoping to kill two birds with one bad ass throw. It's going to have to be one bad ass throw or step out of the way. And I'm ready to do either one. I'm hoping there is someone I can trust to send my saw to to compete in a 50cc GTG race. It wood be cool for one of your 50cc modded saws to be there as well as one of your archnemesis' saws, preferably one model that starts with P and ends with a 0:) LOL. Just kidding Kevin!

I wood know where I stand with my porting. I'm not even going to try and attempt Tom F. Jr's crowd. That's a league of it's own...

Besides, look what that "evidence" got you:dizzy: It's not worth it to post stuff like that because there will always be haters ready to bring you down. GTG's will take care of that as everyone gets to run the saw.
 
Rick 210psi sounds like beyond pump gas territory.
Anyway, I'd be happy with 180psi mate. :)

Al, I'll be right back bro. I need your advice!!!!!

I believe I've heard it said that 190 is about the max for a work saw on pump gas. I believe it was also said that much more than that can start working against you. I don't recall the whys and hows about it though.
 
Al, what wood you suggest here? Yay or Nay. You can barely see the outline of the inner gasket where it meets the edges of the case port. I want to remove this material like I did on the 7901.



I'm wondering if that wood leave a less than desirable/safe width on the cylinder skirt?
 
I believe I've heard it said that 190 is about the max for a work saw on pump gas. I believe it was also said that much more than that can start working against you. I don't recall the whys and hows about it though.

Yeah about where I understand it to be.

Rick have you changed your inlet timing much?
You could get the barrel and piston turned into a popup.
If you did your calc's right you could get the exhaust duration and compression where you want to suit the machine work.
 
Al, what wood you suggest here? Yay or Nay. You can barely see the outline of the inner gasket where it meets the edges of the case port. I want to remove this material like I did on the 7901.



I'm wondering if that wood leave a less than desirable/safe width on the cylinder skirt?

Personally I'd remove it without going to far into the transfer port trying to compromise between flow and crankcase comp loss, plus being only a 365 you might want to keep the transfers reasonably tight if you are going to run fingers. Don't know mate, maybe I'm right off track, but that's how I'd see it.
That bit of cyl is very thick, so I wouldn't be concerned.
 
Just what I was thinking mate. I'm just going to match the case there and blend, but won't be removing much material. Just to let it flow a little more. Thanks Al.

 
Here's the left side roughed in. I remove the nickesel (sp) first so it's not that damaging to the bits that are made for soft metal(non diamond).

DSCF1687.jpg
 
Yeah about where I understand it to be.

Rick have you changed your inlet timing much?
You could get the barrel and piston turned into a popup.
If you did your calc's right you could get the exhaust duration and compression where you want to suit the machine work.

I missed this one mate.

I did change the duration. I'll get numbers for you when I can. I slap the stock one back on and compare.

I have plans to do a pop up for this set-up. I just need to buy a 1/4"-1/2" (height) pattern bit and it's a done deal.

As far as the exhaust, Tom told me how much to take off, otherwise, removing too much material and the motor becomes smaller. He mentioned that to all of us in a thread over up yonder.

It's strange that a piped saw has be made into a smaller motor via the preferable 90º ATDC porting and still makes trick power.
 
I'll be measuring the crown. I think I remember .100 was safe. I don't want to add material to the piston like the 5100. If I remember correctly, the 5100 crown is less than the 365 crown. So there may be enough meat to machine the pop up on the 365 piston without adding material to remove.
 
I'm going to go for it, but on the other jug, Al. I'll be keeping the entire intake port and it's timing stock so as to allow for the pop-up. Furthermore, I'll be porting traditional finger ports. By not widening the intake port, it will allow for some fat fingers. 6 transfer ports.
 
I'm going to go for it, but on the other jug, Al. I'll be keeping the entire intake port and it's timing stock so as to allow for the pop-up. Furthermore, I'll be porting traditional finger ports. By not widening the intake port, it will allow for some fat fingers. 6 transfer ports.

What are your ring-ends like with those finger ports Cheech? Do you flip the piston around so they ride on the exhaust side?
 
Crazy Nate, you got me back in here quick!:cheers:

I kept the piston in it's original position. I don't know how to correctly answer this Nate, but the ring ends run smack in the middle between the finger ported edges.

There is enough meat for this ring ends to ride on.
 
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