Advanced hydraulics dual pump splitter build diesel mower conversion

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Good idea using a power steering pump for extras. I got a good deal on this pump so if it doesn't work out I will try another setup. Just doing the math before I put it all together.

Engineers like to doing the math first. I just don't know much of the hydraulic math yet. Do more of the electrical and chemical side of things.
:D:D power steering pumps,,, normally!! max out at 1100 psi,,and they aint volumn pumps...
 
No, just the pump section for the splitter is 30gpm.

My pump is 3 sections total. P124L085AHZA20-54JNZA05-1TFZA05-1. The splitter section is the A20. I believe one of the A05s is for the saw motor and the other one runs the conveyor, trough, and wedge, though I'm not 100% on that.

The original section for the splitter was a A15 and I put the A20 on which is the largest in that frame size of pumps I guess. The cycle time for the splitter was about 7.5 seconds which I found to be too slow, it's now about 5 seconds.

I talked with Dave Groff at Permco and he was able to walk me through everything as I had no idea what all the codes meant. I believe he recomended 40ish hp, but I've been fine. Generally when splitting I might hit 1000-1500psi when it first splits for a second or so and then it drops right now. If I hit the relief it bogs the motor down, but it's not enough to stall it.

Valley, is that a combined flow of 30gpm, if it is, its a smaller pump than the op has. His would be 40gpm combined flow.
 
If your not hitting full relief pressures, I can believe your motor will pull that size pump. Not really needing full pressure most of the time is why I first suggested just setting the pressure to where it could bogg the engine without killing it and live with it. Most times my 28gpm two stage never kicks in high pressure low flow stage either and I am splitting 6ways per pass. Heck, I dont even know what my splitter pressure is set at as I've never put a gauge on it. I'm pretty sure it isnt maxing out the pump.
 
Yeah I use to have a gauge on mine until one day the guts decided to break open and it blew apart shooting oil everywhere. I never bother to buy another. I still have gauges on the other 2 valve banks and the cylinder for the saw bar but I don't have any reason to look at them normally. Before I fixed the shafts on the conveyor I would keep on eye on that gauge, if it got around 500psi it was because it was binding up.
 
With the 4in and up size cyl, all those tonnage numbers are just that, numbers. When you start doing multiple way splits the numbers do start to become a little more important, but a lot of wood is split using little cyl, little pumps, and little engines. It simply dont take 29tons of force to split firewood. I'll admit its nice to have all that power when you really need it, but really, how often do you really need it?
 
No, just the pump section for the splitter is 30gpm.

My pump is 3 sections total. P124L085AHZA20-54JNZA05-1TFZA05-1. The splitter section is the A20. I believe one of the A05s is for the saw motor and the other one runs the conveyor, trough, and wedge, though I'm not 100% on that.

The original section for the splitter was a A15 and I put the A20 on which is the largest in that frame size of pumps I guess. The cycle time for the splitter was about 7.5 seconds which I found to be too slow, it's now about 5 seconds.

I talked with Dave Groff at Permco and he was able to walk me through everything as I had no idea what all the codes meant. I believe he recomended 40ish hp, but I've been fine. Generally when splitting I might hit 1000-1500psi when it first splits for a second or so and then it drops right now. If I hit the relief it bogs the motor down, but it's not enough to stall it.

I have attached flyer and cook book for the permco 124 series pump.

Your pump
P pump
124 series
L extended studs
085 CW rotation SAE B 2 Bolt 13 spline shaft
AH Port end covers multiple
ZA20 first pump gear size 2 inches
54 drive shaft
JN fitting size and location
ZA05 second pump 1/2 inch size
1TF Fitting size and location
ZA05 third pump 1/2 inch size

The ZA20 can do 32 gpm at 2500 psi @3000 rpm
The ZA15 can do 23.5 gpm at 3300 psi @ 3000 rpm
The ZA05 can do 7.5 gpm at 3500 psi @3000 rpm

ValleyFirewood how many rpms do you run your processor?
 

Attachments

  • Permco 124 flier and cook book.pdf
    408.1 KB
I'm still waiting to hear what Doug is going to call this animal...
 
I'm still waiting to hear what Doug is going to call this animal...


I did get the 12" Husqvarna stickers! Have not put them on yet. Haven't done any real work on it in a few weeks. All planning.

Should call it an oily mess or it could be a POS. Taking the mower apart was messy. Pig Mats do soak up lots of oil. Good stuff.





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Pool worked great when changing to high flow Aux pump in the Bobcat. Fit perfectly under the entire Bobcat. Been thinking if ValleyFirewood was able to change out one of his pumps in the stack I might see about changing one of my pumps. Googled the part numbers and found them from $50 to $70 shipped. Might become a Frankenstein pump. Need to sit down and come up with an ideal flow setup for a pump at 34 hp. Auto cycle valve can handle 25 gpm which would max the dump valve out at 65 gpm on return.
 
Pool worked great when changing to high flow Aux pump in the Bobcat. Fit perfectly under the entire Bobcat. Been thinking if ValleyFirewood was able to change out one of his pumps in the stack I might see about changing one of my pumps. Googled the part numbers and found them from $50 to $70 shipped. Might become a Frankenstein pump. Need to sit down and come up with an ideal flow setup for a pump at 34 hp. Auto cycle valve can handle 25 gpm which would max the dump valve out at 65 gpm on return.
I would match my splitter section to the 34hp engine, which in my opinion your pretty close to there already. None of the other functions will be working anyways while your splitting, nor do they need the flow or hp to do their jobs. If a smaller section is available for $50-$70, sounds like that might be the best path to take. Cheaper than buying diverter valves and associated plumbing.
 
2900rpm is what my Kubota runs at.

The pump section was around $175 with shipping. That was pump section, gears, brass end plates, and 4 rods. Oh, and shipping to Alaska.
Pretty darn cheap.
 
sam-tip, this is the coolest splitter build thread in a while. Can't wait to see the finished product. Is there a chance that it will be moveable under it's own power when finished? If you have any intention of bringing to charity cuts / GTG's, will you tow it? What tires will you change to? I wish I had the skill set to do something like this.
 
Sam, I usually never even bother trying to catch the oil doing something like this. I start out by dumping a bag of oil sorb under and on everything, I'm going to do that at some point anyway so might as well get it over with. Otherwise you just track it everywhere. Nice build, hard to find time isn't it?
 

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