That's a sweet saw we got 1 and run a 10" bar from a craftsman electric chainsaw on it makes a wicked brushing limbing saw!
Antique saw thread
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Stonewoodiron
ArboristSite Operative
Sounds like an awesome application - plenty of power! How often do you pump the oiler? Never had a manual oiler!
Alot! I'm always worried my old man will get on me if he sees any bar wear. My thumb could curl 3 quarts no problem
he's a millwright/machine repairman in a steel plant. Still going strong at 70!!! Plus a hardcore do it yourselfer idk how he does it.
he's a millwright/machine repairman in a steel plant. Still going strong at 70!!! Plus a hardcore do it yourselfer idk how he does it.
There are numerous methods. I usually try WD40 and a pack of scotchbrite pads. Messy and your hands hurt but it gets the job done.
I have also heard of using a belt sander. Apparently it works very good
Electrolysis removes everything except the metal.
Works great for vintage chains as well
In your case it will take the paint off as well
Probly wet sand it with oil and fibe grit sand paper. Or a dual action sander then all hand work around whats left of the insignia
Preserving the lettering on that one may be a tall order, but I tend to agree with the penetrant/light abrasive approach for starters if electrolysis isn't a viable option. PB Blaster is a good product for rust removal similar to WD40. The key is patience. Spray it down and let it soak. Wipe down with fine grit paper and repeat until the dusty surface rust is gone. Move up to the Scotch-Brite or a heavier grit paper for the more stubborn stuff. The Scotch-Brite pads fit nicely on a 1/4 sheet palm sander, btw. The red ones are more aggressive than the green. If you need to go with a sander, you're probably beyond preserving the lettering and may want to check with Sugar Creek Supply or elsewhere for a suitable stencil and just re-paint it. A random orbital sander with some penetrant and a few 220 pads would make quicker work of just cleaning the bar down to bare metal than most other methods.
Ater a month plus of soaking in ATF, got back to trying to get the cylinder off. Pulling up by hand moved it some more, took a few light taps with the plastic hammer. There's only one scratch that catches a fingernail on the right side above intake port in the 3rd pic. The rings are stuck in the grooves of course so gonna clean out around the circlips and hopefully not ruin them to get the piston off. Plan to try soaking the piston/rings upside down to see if they'll unstick. I can just wiggle slightly end ring end.
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sawnami
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I've used both 50/50 apple cider vinegar and water and electrolytic derusting. Some paints are not affected much by the vinegar and water bath. You would have to do a spot test to see how it would affect your bar logo paint. The pic is vinegar and water bath.
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That's a pretty amazing result for diluted vinegar. If anyone had any doubts about vinegar as a de-rusting agent, they should be laid to rest after seeing that pic.
I used a vinegar solution on a copper jacket fouled rifle bore. Boosted by a 1 1/2 v battery source. Brass rod as the anode insulated by shrink tubing.
Cleaned out the copper in a jiffy.
So, I left it overnight thinking it would be better.
Ate the rifling away. Had to rebarrel it.
[emoji33]
Cleaned out the copper in a jiffy.
So, I left it overnight thinking it would be better.
Ate the rifling away. Had to rebarrel it.
[emoji33]
@Philbert has a chain salvage challenge thread that was pretty interesting, that vinegar seems the best, I did salvage a rusty bar and a locked up chain after following the instructions in the thread. Vinegar for the win
Just to be clear, vinegar is not my favorite, but it can work. It can also turn steel black, which may be preferred for some applications.
Philbert
My electrolysis tank rules.hook up the wire,submerge and come back and check it next day
Still stuff on it ,leave it for another day.
cleaned up about 30 cast iron frying pans one summer
Still stuff on it ,leave it for another day.
cleaned up about 30 cast iron frying pans one summer
That looks pretty darn good. I am wondering does this act similar to using OSPHO where it neutralizes(best word I can think of) the rust turn it black so it can be painted. I've used OSPHO on projects that I removed most of the rust but still coated in ospho before painting. So when you sand the black off you can still see the rust underneath. Your bar looks good and I think I will try your method.I've used both 50/50 apple cider vinegar and water and electrolytic derusting. Some paints are not affected much by the vinegar and water bath. You would have to do a spot test to see how it would affect your bar logo paint. The pic is vinegar and water bath.
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