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Poulan 41 stuck rings soaking for a week....NOPE. One side on the bottom ring got free and gave me hope( the long piece) but a little extra wiggle then crack.
Looking for Poulan 41 rings in case you have a set handy.
Poulan 41 ring parts.jpeg
 
Poulan 41 stuck rings soaking for a week....NOPE. One side on the bottom ring got free and gave me hope( the long piece) but a little extra wiggle then crack.
Looking for Poulan 41 rings in case you have a set handy.
View attachment 962975
Have you checked the poulan stickies thread or that Niks poulan thread? Maybe post a want to buy on here somewhere.
 
Yeah, I look through the Nik's thread quite often. I just bought a cheap set of gauges to measure the bore in a couple of spots. Once I get that done I'll have a better idea what to ask for.
Sometimes on weekends I get other projects that take me away from the internet and it takes me a while to get caught up on all the post round here.
 
My hats off to those who use bore gauges on a daily basis. Getting consistent numbers is hard....

cylinder mmnts 2.jpegcylinder mmnts.jpeg
 
2 1/6" bore, 1/16" thick rings with hooked ends for locating pins. Poulan part number 2447. Those are a very common ring. Remington Bantam and others used the same rings.
Been away and come back to gift of information. Thanks Mark!
 
Mac super 250
LHMedium-13.jpg

RHMedium-15.jpg

TopMedium-1.jpg
 
I am working on a 1947 ish IEL Beaver that dosn't have the Tillotson AJ-13B carburetor.
Seeing its a few years old it could have been changed.
Has anyone ever seen this carb and know it's origins?
I have two other beavers that are earlyer ser numbers with the Tillotson carb.
Any info on it would be appreciated.
beaver carb1.jpgbeaver carb2.jpgbeaver carb3.jpgbeaver carb4.jpgbeaver carb5.jpg
 
So it's a very basic carb
Unless there is a piece missing from the bottom bowl that the side jrt adjuster is supposed to go into everything seems to be in functioning form.You can see some brass on the rounded edge of the float bowl that may be broke off.The throttle shaft is loose in the body so i saw a repair on an old saw where they wrapped thread around the shaft to seal it up a bit.
Idle speed is adjusted by pushing a wire through the carb body and the butterfly rests against it.
No hidden check valves on this one.The Tillotson looks pretty refined compared to this one.
beaver carb6.jpgbeaver carb7.jpgbeaver carb9.jpgbeaver carb8.jpg
 
How much would 2 Clinton 3a in less then great shape be worth missing parts
Just saw your question. I recently did a resto on a 3A and needed a crank. There have been a few on ebay at what I consider ridiculous prices. I paid $120 for two (one was a later model) and met the seller to pick them up as shipping is outrageous anymore. I did get a good crank and a good drive belt but still paid too much imo. I wound up scrapping most of the parts on the later model. The belt is an odd size, like one tooth less than anything I found at Grainger or McMaster Carr, and fits several models. There is no adjustment. To me, the best part is the cone that covers the carb. The original I bought had it. It's like the "ash tray" starter cover on older Homelites - just not complete without it.
 

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