Any of ya'll dealing with Ailanthus (TOH) ?

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FXJenkins

Logwood burning through the nights
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I've almost eradicated it from my lot, but its all over up here on neighbors lots and vacant land, and now the SLF's are everywhere....Ailanthus will take over and choke out everything under its canopy. I cut down 20 in one day and the last one bounced up and killed my husqy...
 
I've almost eradicated it from my lot, but its all over up here on neighbors lots and vacant land, and now the SLF's are everywhere....Ailanthus will take over and choke out everything under its canopy. I cut down 20 in one day and the last one bounced up and killed my husky...

I was not familiar with this invasive but just read a good reference. It seems herbicides applied late summer are most effective and you need to kill the prolific root system.

Glyphosate and triclopyr are effective.

https://extension.psu.edu/tree-of-heaven
 
What I've been told is to kill the tree BEFORE you cut it down. Girdle it and apply herbicide. If not, the roots will spread like crazy, sending up new shoots all over. At the very least, apply herbicide to the stump right after cutting. If the trees are still small, apply herbicide to the leaves and let the tree die before cutting.
 
For TOH, do the hack and squirt to kill the tree. Take a hatchet and hack gouges in the bark around the tree but not a continuous line. Then squirt Roundup in there. Let the herbicide do the work, then deal with what is left. When these trees are threatened they will push up new growth through the root system.
 
For woody plants and trees, triclopyr is more effective than glyphosate. Early to mid August is best for foliar applications when the leaves are sending nutrients to the roots for storage.
For hack and squirt, mix a strong solution, usually 1:4 triclopyr (of whatever dilution comes in the bottle, we used Garlon 3A at the park) to water.
 
Yes, I have the triclopyr 4. Ailanthus survival ability to self propagate when one is downed is incredible. I cut a large one in the spring and had no less than 100 suckers produce from the roots. You do not want to let this tree get a foot hold anywhere you can prevent it.

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For woody plants and trees, triclopyr is more effective than glyphosate. Early to mid August is best for foliar applications when the leaves are sending nutrients to the roots for storage.
For hack and squirt, mix a strong solution, usually 1:4 triclopyr (of whatever dilution comes in the bottle, we used Garlon 3A at the park) to water.

You are in PA and have been dealing with em for a while I guess. Correct me if I'm wrong but are you saying 1 part water and 4 parts Tri, or just a 20% Tri mix? I've read 2-6 oz per gallon per acre is sufficient for folier. I've also read you can mix it with vegetable oil as a surfactant for the basil bark application.
 
I've had good success with triclopyr on woody brush/shrubs/trees as well.(well it kills nearly everything really) Foliar applications usually, starts yellowing in a few days then dead in short order. 3oz per gallon, healthy squirt of dawn in the sprayer and have at it. It's nasty stuff.
If I'm worried about pre/post emergent imazapyr 4 sl is great. Same mix ratio as tryclopyr. 3oz per gallon, squirt of dawn. Kills everything off and usually don't have any regrowth for the entire summer. Been spraying my parents lane with it for a coupple years now. Once and done.
 
Back around 2000-2001 I removed 1 very large (24" diameter x 50 ft tall) 1 large (18-20" diameter x 40+ feet tall) and 2 smaller ones (1 foot diameter max x 30 ft tall) from the front part & south sides of the property.Nasty stuff,I burned most of the wood after a year or so,it kinda stinks,and leaves more ash behind than any wood I've ever burned before..About a 1/3rd of the wood I hauled out to parent's acreage 50 miles west,dumped it in a pile & left it to rot.......It was 2005 or so before I stopped seeing any of those sprouts around the stumps (kept them chopped off with hatchet) or growing in the grass several feet from the stumps (eventually they died too with normal mowing)

Absolute worthless tree,the flowers/immature twigs STINK,the trees are quite weak & brittle during most any storm,the wood burns hot but very fast,leaves a ridiculous amount of fluffy ash,not a very fine powder almost nothing like the denser woods.The roots will quickly & easily clog storm & sewer lines as well,plus do damage to your house foundation if they're too close (just like any tree with age unfortunately)

I suppose its only ''good'' qualities are the wood is quite easy to split (looks like most Ashes in color,grain pattern & texture) they do provide quick shade in certain urban areas that's difficult for any trees to survive. Luckily after getting rid of those,I havent seen any of them return to the property,even a few mid sized ones that grew a few blocks south down the street in a right of way next to Interstate off ramp were removed also I've noticed.Word is finally getting out what a real PITA they can be....

To give an idea how how much I loath the stuff - its the ONLY wood I will knowingly leave behind or not bring home from a free Craigslist or FB Marketplace scrounge.....I'll bring home Cottonwood (only a couple times in past 10 yrs when I was low on kindling/fire starting material) or White Pine/Spruce (one I actively seek out for such uses actually,its great for a quick hot fire in Spring/Fall) but If I recognize Ailanthus in the listing's photo from its bark or similar features,that crap stays put.Its not worth my time,effort or aggravation....lol
 
For Garlon 3A, the label says to use undiluted or diluted 1:1 with water for Hack and Squirt. READ THE LABEL.
 
Ailanthus was introduced in the 1700s as an ornamental. Shortly after it was introduced, they realized their error but it was too late. The wood is actually a good secondary wood for furniture but not good for exterior use. I've done some turnings with it and the grain is very light and smooth.
 
I wish there was a financial incentive to eradicate it, like bounties for coyote pelts. I’m saying now, this tree is a huge threat to indigenous forests. There should be a concerted effort to completely eliminate it buts prob impossible in this day and age.
 
You are in PA and have been dealing with em for a while I guess. Correct me if I'm wrong but are you saying 1 part water and 4 parts Tri, or just a 20% Tri mix? I've read 2-6 oz per gallon per acre is sufficient for folier. I've also read you can mix it with vegetable oil as a surfactant for the basil bark application.
We made it 1 part Garlon to 3 or 4 parts water. IMO, straight is overkill for hack n squirt. Never looked into other surfactants, we bought our chemicals in bulk.

Ailanthus is a preferred plant for spotted lanternfly so it's on the destroy immediately list. The park has escaped infestation so far, but you can see how the early quarantine maps followed the major highways, and the PA turnpike isn't that far away.
 
I wish there was a financial incentive to eradicate it, like bounties for coyote pelts. I’m saying now, this tree is a huge threat to indigenous forests. There should be a concerted effort to completely eliminate it buts prob impossible in this day and age.
I think there is here in TN... pretty sure there is some kind of grant for landowners who want to reestablish natural habitats.
I'll see if I can find it, thinks it's through a TN wildlife aggency.

I'm having a similar problem with a Paulownia tree I had cut down, stump ground, two years ago - now it's shooting up by the hundreds from the roots all over the yard. And they grow like 10' overnight. Two shot up right next to the farmhouse, one into the power line to the house. I know I've cut them down before, but they shot up so fast this year they got too tall before I noticed them. Might have to get the electric co. to come out before I cut the one in the lines. :crazy2:
I love the huge leaves and flower clusters on the tree, but, sheesh, one is more than enough - don't need a yard full of them.


So sorry about your dog. :(.
 
Tennessee offers a number of grants and programs to help landowners restore natural habitats, including programs that provide financial assistance and others that offer technical assistance:


  • Tennessee Landowner Incentive Program (TNLIP)
    A cost-share program that provides grants from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to help private landowners improve habitats for rare species. Landowners can receive at least 75% of the total costs
 

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