Backup generator opinions.

[Bill G]

Logically, simply bolding a quoted area only suggests that is the focus of your question. It's a bit more accurate to just quote the lines you are taking exception to, and not print the extraneous information.

Just forget it, you always want to argue.......

 

[pdqdl]

WTF

I never said you were confused. Please read again. I said mudstopper was confused. I was actually agreeing with you.WOW

Unlike you, I took the time to look up his contraption. This should clarify the issue.

https://www.generlink.com/https://www.generlink.com/generlink.html

 

[sean donato]

Thinking of transfer switches, we had an auto transfer switchbinstalled when we had the solar panels put in, generac model, rated at 200 amp service. Came with everything to install it, including the gernator control interface and a load shedding module. Only thing extra I paid for was having then wiring in a nema plug to the side if it to plug the generator into. When the lone power goes off it trips into generator mode, when the line power come back on it kicks back to line power. It was $800.00 extra. Made it real easy for my wife to hook up the generator. All she needs to remember is to turn off the hot water heater.

 

[sean donato]

Unlike you, I took the time to look up his contraption. This should clarify the issue.

https://www.generlink.com/

It seems neither that go between the meter and panel will support more then a 40 amp drawl.

 

[pdqdl]

I think that is a mistake. They don't support more than a 40 amp INPUT from the genset. They only have a 50 amp receptacle on the switch, and their internal wiring is probably just rated for less. They also have a 200 amp "throughput" from the utility company.

https://www.generlink.com/files/135878150.pdf

 

[Bill G]

Well having access to Farm/Construction equipment DOES make a difference


Doug

Yes it does I wish I had more access to equipment. About a month ago I was looking into having a hoop building put up. The local feed dealer is also a dealer for Freedom buildings. He called and we were talking prices. I told him I needed it put up. He said "why is that your brother just put one up himself, you can do it." I chuckled at that buusheet.He did not put it up. My nephew dug the holes for the posts with a auger on the tracked skid loader. A faller that works for him has a bucket truck so that was used to set the trusses. The guys doing the climbing was the normal crew of Mexicans that work for him logging during the week. Those crazy guys work hard and are not scared of anything. My brother probably stood there drinking Pepsi and smoking Marlboros........ya easy when you have the stuff.

 

[Husky Man]

Heck just toss one in the truck....that is what we would do here but this is hillbilly, redneck country

Out here we have an abundance of old NH3 tanks so you can get real portable. I have pulled two in tandem empty at 60MPH........not advisable

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/grd/d/red-wing-tank-for-propane-or-ammonia-or/7666525792.html

Better have your Haz Mat Endorsement, and proper placards pulling that on a public road, and can you make that cll on speakerphone so I can listen, when you ask your Insurance Agent if that is covered under your policy

That thing would be a PITA to back up , I have only handled one full pull trailer in my 35 year trucking career, despised that thing. I imagine that with some practice, I could get the hang of it, but I am Good with it, if I never handle another one EVER again


Doug

 

[Bill G]

Unlike you, I took the time to look up his contraption. This should clarify the issue.

https://www.generlink.com/https://www.generlink.com/generlink.html

See post #61

 

[pdqdl]

I am going to suggest you lookup Generlink before saying you cant place anything between the meter and the meter base. https://www.generlink.com/ Generlink is code compliant and approved to use most everywhere. The power company installs it and it is a automatic switch, not a manual. It has a special outlet to plug in your generator and your current switch panel isnt effected, rewired, or tampered with in any manner. You dont need another breakerbox, If you dont have enough generator to power every breaker in your panel, you simply turn off or on whichever circuit you do or donot need.

I did look it up. I even remarked that it was the right way, and clever. That was my first post in this thread!

That sounds like a really good way to hook up a smaller capacity genset. Smart and doing it right. But expensive!

I've been back-feeding my house and shop for 40 years with a 50amp connection that costs about $80 installed. It does require manually switching your meter off from the building, but I can do an awful lot of switching for $1500, and my setup will never fail to work.

I was referring only to an installation of a manually thrown switch. Which would include a lot of work, and re-inspection if the utility company ever got wind of my changes. ALL changes between the meter and the circuit breaker box require an inspection by the city code inspector, and they will then tell the Utility company to turn your power back on. At least that's how it goes around here. Go ahead! Ask me how I know.

My main breaker does the job nicely right now, with no changes whatsoever.

 

[sean donato]

I think that is a mistake. They don't support more than a 40 amp INPUT from the genset. They only have a 50 amp receptacle on the switch, and their internal wiring is probably just rated for less. They also have a 200 amp "throughput" from the utility company.

https://www.generlink.com/files/135878150.pdf

It's only rated for 10kw continuous from the generator, the 200 amp rating is the line side. It also lists overcurrent protection at 40 amps. So it's the same unit. To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't want it. But I also know I can run my house off of 26 amps @240v, except for the hot water heater .

 

[pdqdl]

A really cool feature for that auto-switch would be a second outlet for genset remote start & shutoff. They probably don't want to include that so as to avoid any possible liability for the generators.

 

[Lionsfan]

Better have your Haz Mat Endorsement, and proper placards pulling that on a public road, and can you make that cll on speakerphone so I can listen, when you ask your Insurance Agent if that is covered under your policy

That thing would be a PITA to back up , I have only handled one full pull trailer in my 35 year trucking career, despised that thing. I imagine that with some practice, I could get the hang of it, but I am Good with it, if I never handle another one EVER again


Doug

I'd stick an orange triangle on that and haul it anywhere in the Midwest without anyone ever giving it a second glance.

 

[Bill G]

Better have your Haz Mat Endorsement, and proper placards pulling that on a public road, and can you make that cll on speakerphone so I can listen, when you ask your Insurance Agent if that is covered under your policy

That thing would be a PITA to back up , I have only handled one full pull trailer in my 35 year trucking career, despised that thing. I imagine that with some practice, I could get the hang of it, but I am Good with it, if I never handle another one EVER again


Doug

It has gotten to the point most will not pull them around with NH3. Yes the DOT has had a major influence but the reason we rarely transport those type of tanks now is because of the fact NH3 is used in meth production. The tanks literally have to have someone watching over them. The one in the add could be used to pull home maybe once on county roads. After that take the tank off mount it concrete fill it with propane and be done. The guy selling that one is plum nuts on his price. The tank is worth maybe $1200 and the gear $300.

As for backing them up they are tough as nails and I stink at it. Years ago in high school we had tractor driving contests. They had various competitions with one being backing a 4 wheel wagon. As crazy as it sounds they are simple when you put them on the front of the tractor. We have tractors with front bumpers and hitches.

 

[Bill G]

I'd stick an orange triangle on that and haul it anywhere in the Midwest without anyone ever giving it a second glance.

Yes, just keep it under 25MPH at 60MPH taht does not work.

I bought three empties at a sale back in 2017 and hooked them all together. They did fine on the highway but I knew getting through town would be tough so I dropped one at the Deere dealer and came back for it

 

[Husky Man]

I'd stick an orange triangle on that and haul it anywhere in the Midwest without anyone ever giving it a second glance.

I am a Haz Mat endorsed commercial driver, at 1,001#, that should require a Haz Mat endorsement and placards, DOT is very strict about that, but would a farmer get away with it? Maybe, probably, I can’t say, but ag gets away with a whole lot more on the road than I think they should, but it ain’t my call


Doug

 

[sean donato]

I am a Haz Mat endorsed commercial driver, at 1,001#, that should require a Haz Mat endorsement and placards, DOT is very strict about that, but would a farmer get away with it? Maybe, probably, I can’t say, but ag gets away with a whole lot more on the road than I think they should, but it ain’t my call


Doug

If your dot is anything like around here, if it's got a farm tag or its behind a tractor with an orange slow moving triangle it's basically legit so long as it's for your own uses and not for another operation.

 

[muddstopper]

I believe you are getting a bit confused as the meter is in the the meter base ..... This is what he said

Now you are getting confused. The meter is plugged into the meterbase. With a generlink, you unplug the meter, plug in the generlink, and plug the meter into the generlink. The transfer switch and the generator connection is already prewired inside the generlink.

 

[muddstopper]

Yup, I think mine cost about $60 and it meets code. I should upgrade to a 50 amp breaker, but we get by with it.

View attachment 1112907

That panel looks almost exactly like the one on my house with one big exception. My box doesnt have the lock out feature that makes sure that you are either getting power from the line or power from the gen, but not both at the same time. Which is the main reason I am getting the Generlink.

 

[muddstopper]

It is simple he quoted you and what you said. When he did so he was confused at the the difference between a meter and main panel. I simply pointed out what he said and what you said.

You know sometimes it is best to slow down a bit, read what folks say and not try to turn it into an argument. That stops a lot of confusion........

I quoted his entire post and made reference to his statement about not being able to put anything between the meter and the meter base. You are the one confused. Maybe you should follow the link I provided. I ended the post with another reference to my original topic of wanting to hear thoughts about the quality of the duramax generators. Why do you want to keep taking this thread off of its intended course. Do you have any experience with Duramax generators or duramax engines? OR, are you just looking for something to argue about.

 

[muddstopper]

I did look it up. I even remarked that it was the right way, and clever. That was my first post in this thread!


I was referring only to an installation of a manually thrown switch. Which would include a lot of work, and re-inspection if the utility company ever got wind of my changes. ALL changes between the meter and the circuit breaker box require an inspection by the city code inspector, and they will then tell the Utility company to turn your power back on. At least that's how it goes around here. Go ahead! Ask me how I know.

My main breaker does the job nicely right now, with no changes whatsoever.

I am replying to post in the order I get them. It seems I make a reply to something and then read a few more post on down and see things have changed or been clarified. I certainly didnt expect this many replies to a thread about Duramax motors and generators.