Bar oil prices?

[frodo]

Someone smack me, I've been running used motor oil in all my saws since i bought them. One of them 3 yrs. My neighbor has had the same saw for 20 something years and thats all he has ever ran in his. He says if that oil can protect a piston,it can protect a chain. I drain old oil into pan, pour into jug , let sit for a while, use jug ,but never bottom of can,

 

[windthrown]

Smack smack!!!

Well, nothing like running fine metal filings in a chainsaw bar and chain for faster wear. Whatever floats your boat! Or files your bar. :biggrinbounce2:

The problem with using used motor oil is that it has a lot of detergent in it. Detergent will dissolve a lot of stuff like really fine metal filings and carbon blow-by and stuff like that. If you are letting the crud settle out from the oil that is better as you will not have the big chunks in there, but there will still be some really fine metal particles left in the oil that will be abrasive. Better off to use ND (non detergent) if you are gonna use motor oil as bar oil. I have found that my chains last longer and stretch less when I use the tacky bar oil as opposed to 30 WT ND oil.

 

[Lakeside53]

Someone smack me, I've been running used motor oil in all my saws since i bought them. One of them 3 yrs. My neighbor has had the same saw for 20 something years and thats all he has ever ran in his. He says if that oil can protect a piston,it can protect a chain. I drain old oil into pan, pour into jug , let sit for a while, use jug ,but never bottom of can,

People like you help fill my big pot full of money... I love selling you new oil pumps, and charging you a bunch to clean the crap out of the saw (and I really take my time). BTW, Used motor oil is toxic waste.

 

[Indiana John]

Right now I'm running ATF in my saws. That's just cause I ran out of regular bar oil last month, so I went to the local RK and picked up a jug. Opened it up and went to pour it in the saw and noticed it was pouring like STP. Looked closer at the jug and saw it was summer grade (!). I couldn't believe they had summer grade oil on the floor in December! Anyway, I had a couple of old gallon jugs of Type "A" ATF sitting around that basically can't be used in anything anymore so I've been using it instead. Seems to work fine in this really cold weather we've been having lately around here. But I will be getting some regular stuff soon.
Oh and BTW, carb icing is not just dependent on temperature. It is a combination of temp and humidity that does it. I've had carb icing occur in vehicles when it was well above freezing. Just gotta have the right conditions.

 

[B_Turner]

My wife is picking me up a jug of canola oil at costco tonight. I am going to start running it in my main noodling machine. Hope it works out as now I will feel better about throwing truckloads of noodles in my own woods.

I feel better already....

 

[GASoline71]

My wife is picking me up a jug of canola oil at costco tonight. I am going to start running it in my main noodling machine. Hope it works out as now I will feel better about throwing truckloads of noodles in my own woods.

I feel better already....

Yeah but your saw will smell like a deep fat fryer.

You tryin' to attract all the fat chicks in town?

Gary

 

[treeclimber jul]

conola oil is tacky enough????

 

[GASoline71]

You won't catch me runnin' it in a Stihl saw... Hell, I wouldn't even run it in a Husqvarna!:help:

You have a lot of nice Stihl saws listed in your sig treeclimber jul... Don't risk your investments runnin' that crap in your saws. Use Stihl bar oil in those Stihl saws! JMHO (of course).

Gary

 

[Justsaws]

Yeah but your saw will smell like a deep fat fryer.

You tryin' to attract all the fat chicks in town?

Gary

Actually it will smell like raw fish, and if by "fat chicks" you mean wild life will want to lick his saw, then "yes sir, you are correct".:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[B_Turner]

You won't catch me runnin' it in a Stihl saw... Hell, I wouldn't even run it in a Husqvarna!:help:

You have a lot of nice Stihl saws listed in your sig treeclimber jul... Don't risk your investments runnin' that crap in your saws. Use Stihl bar oil in those Stihl saws! JMHO (of course).

Gary

I've heard the tackyness thing both ways. I certainly wouldn't trust it to tough conditions. But I generate mountains of noodles when blocking and the bar actually is running fairly cool because the chains are wicked sharp, the wood is green and the type of cut generates less friction both in the kerf and actual fiber seperation. Since hugh quantities of those noodles end up in my own woods over years and years, I want to give the stuff a try in one specific saw.

I currently run Stihl bar oil in all my saws as I can get it what I consider cheap and like most Stihl stuff it is good stuff.

So canola in one specific saw and I'll keep and eye on it. If it doesn't work out we will eat fried chicken for a while (5 qts canola oil). I feel I owe it to mother earth to at least check the stuff out for myself given so many people report sucess. And Gas, if it makes you feel better, the test saw won't be one of my Stihls or Huskies.

 

[Lakeside53]

You can have some the "real stuff" at cost if you like. Stihl expensive...

The only issue is to make sure it doesn't go to resin in the summer (on your saws...). PITA to dig an oil pump out of the crap when is goes solid. I just had to do one on a 460... Never did get it all out. Some wacky reaction with oxygen and dissolving tree pitch. I thought the guy had hit a pitch well, but turns out here was running straight vege for the past year.

 

[B_Turner]

You can have some the "real stuff" at cost if you like. Stihl expensive...

The only issue is to make sure it doesn't go to resin in the summer (on your saws...). PITA to dig an oil pump out of the crap when is goes solid. I just had to do one on a 460... Never did get it all out. Some wacky reaction with oxygen and dissolving tree pitch. I thought the guy had hit a pitch well, but turns out here was running straight vege for the past year.

Heard about it setting up, but not about the reaction with pitch...Good to know.

I plan to only run the stuff in my saw(s) that I use very regularly. For now only one. Some of my saws can sit for weeks or more at times, and I'll will definitely stick to standard Stihl with those.

I'll take you up on the "real Stuff" some time I am out near the store and you are in. It's more expenisve, but I am sure it will work better than straight canola oil. It was something like $50 for 5 gallons or so as I recall. Mom earth is worth it. (But for extreme conditions, the people I know that use bio often switch back to standard and I would probably too.)

In terms of protection, I hear people say they would never be mean enough to their saw to run bio, but then they will continue a cut (or two)with a chain no longer sharp which clearly cooks chains and bars.

 

[windthrown]

Atf?

Right now I'm running ATF in my saws.

I dunno about ATF. That stuff has a ton of detergent in it. I use non detergent motor oil only as a backup if I am out of bar oil. Now I have enough bar oil that I should never run out again.

As for natural oil, need a stabilizer in there to keep it from 1) going rancid on you 2) to keep from turning to resin in the tank, pump and on your bar. Canola oil is the base of a lot of bio bar oil, but it has addatives to keep it from spoiling and turning to resin. I read someplace about the resin reaction process, but I forget where it was.

 

[stckciv]

Try the extra virgin olive oil, smells great and its very clean!

 

[Austin1]

Canola Oil

I've heard the tackyness thing both ways. I certainly wouldn't trust it to tough conditions. But I generate mountains of noodles when blocking and the bar actually is running fairly cool because the chains are wicked sharp, the wood is green and the type of cut generates less friction both in the kerf and actual fiber seperation. Since hugh quantities of those noodles end up in my own woods over years and years, I want to give the stuff a try in one specific saw.

I currently run Stihl bar oil in all my saws as I can get it what I consider cheap and like most Stihl stuff it is good stuff.

So canola in one specific saw and I'll keep and eye on it. If it doesn't work out we will eat fried chicken for a while (5 qts canola oil). I feel I owe it to mother earth to at least check the stuff out for myself given so many people report sucess. And Gas, if it makes you feel better, the test saw won't be one of my Stihls or Huskies.

I tried it last year in my ''test saw'' and was impressed never noticed the bar getting to hot or any more chain stretch than normal. I have been using it all this winter since September It flow better in cold weather than Reg bar oil and my saws stay cleaner, I have been using it in all my saws now. I would stay away from any other type of veggie oil as I think they tend to gum up. I always wash out my oil tank with Coleman fuel at the end of the season anyway.Plus it is dirt cheap 16 litres for 14 bucks, but then it is grown in my back yard!