Bar oil prices?

[Lakeside53]

Interesting. I know Dan Kraus, monster climber that he is. Unless he moved, he works for them.

Do you use the Stihl bio because it comes in smaller jugs, or do you have a personal preference?

I really need to start running more of some sort of bio out of respect for the earth. I cringe when I think about how many gallons of oil I've dumped out through my chain. I think the time has come for me to start owning up to it and switch at least my saws that I run regularly.

Stihl at $15 for 5 liters is a good deal for those guys.

I use the Stihl beause I had it before the 5 gallon stuff was available... No particular preference. I still don't trust any of it for milling though... Maybe should try it one day.


and, I'm wrong.. not Seattle Tree Pres... I meant to say "4 Seasons" . To tired today (hauling brush for two days straight) to think. I'll got to work tomorrow to give my body a rest.

 

[windthrown]

Salad oil...

Man I sure wish I knew what he said after this....

He said something about Martin Sheen using canola oil in a salad dressing :jester:

But in reality, yes indeed, the do-gooders are getting riled up about oil in the environment these days. I did the Rubicon Trail out of Lake Tahoe last year with my brother in his new Tomb Raider Jeep. Half way through we met these scientist teams from the University of California. They were taking water samples for the 'before the Jeep Jamboree' weekend outing there. Then they were going to go back after the Jamboree and find all the diff and motor oil and stuff that was dumped into the area and send it up to the state legislature. The whole trail basically reeks of diff oil. They are trying to close that trail again. They gated it a few years back, but the off-road maniacs kept blowing up the gates. So for the time being there is a stalemate. The oil left behind up there may tip the scales and close the trail again though.

Oil floating on water around here is getting more attention of late. I can see that the future demand for natural and degradable oil is going to be high. I use Power Pro myself. Seems tacky and clean enough. In an emergency I have used 30wt ND oil.

 

[windthrown]

Low temp bar oil?

Stopped by BLowes today for B & C oil. All they had was Husky summer oil and some off brand summer oil. I guess they never heard of low temp oil. Went to the local Stihl dealer and he had a shelf full of low temp for $6.59 + tax per gallon.

Low temp being? I live in a relatively mild winter climate... though I do flip my 290 and 361 prefilters to winter mode here (below 50 F). Usually we cut when it is above freezing (more to keep from skidding on our a$$es out in the woods).

 

[Patrick62]

Bailey's oil

I keep a few cases on hand. We discovered that this oil has helped the bars, sprockets, and chains last lots longer. Before I was running some slop from True Value (cheap). The other set of saws was running many gallons of Mal*Wart stuff.

Costs more, but does a way better job of lubricating.

-Pat

 

[GASoline71]

Low temp being? I live in a relatively mild winter climate... though I do flip my 290 and 361 prefilters to winter mode here (below 50 F). Usually we cut when it is above freezing (more to keep from skidding on our a$$es out in the woods).

The litle air diverters on the Stihl saws are for temps under 10 degrees F. It takes air from near the engine to use the engine heat to pre-warm the air to prevent carb icing. I'm cuttin' in colder climate than you are (down in the 20's sometimes), and have never switched my saws to "winter".

Gary

 

[Lakeside53]

The litle air diverters on the Stihl saws are for temps under 10 degrees F. It takes air from near the engine to use the engine heat to pre-warm the air to prevent carb icing. I'm cuttin' in colder climate than you are (down in the 20's sometimes), and have never switched my saws to "winter".

Gary

Careful... that depends on the saw and most are for below 40-50 (to supress carb icing).. are you sure you didn't read 10C?? I also don't bother switching mine, but I was stupid enough to be milling at 35F, I probably would.

 

[GASoline71]

Careful... that depends on the saw and most are for below 40-50 (to supress carb icing).. are you sure you didn't read 10C?? I also don't bother switching mine, but I was stupid enough to be milling at 35F, I probably would.

Oops... maybe it does say 10 C... HAHA!:hmm3grin2orange:

I'll have to eat that one. Thanks Andy. When I was up elk huntin', I was cuttin' downed trees for wood, and it was around 12 degrees, I flipped it over. But have not done that during this last cold snap, where it was down in the 20's during the day. No problems that I could tell.

Maybe I shoulda???

Gary

 

[windthrown]

Stihl winter mode

The litle air diverters on the Stihl saws are for temps under 10 degrees F. It takes air from near the engine to use the engine heat to pre-warm the air to prevent carb icing. I'm cuttin' in colder climate than you are (down in the 20's sometimes), and have never switched my saws to "winter".

Gary

????
I believe that you have the temp wrong. Winter mode is below 10 degrees C. according to my Stihl factory manuals, or 50 degrees F. The summer mode is above 20 degrees C, or 70 degrees F. The cross-over is 50 to 70 F, and it will never get above 70 F here this time of year, so I have them set to winter mode.

 

[GASoline71]

????
I believe that you have the temp wrong. Winter mode is below 10 degrees C. according to my Stihl factory manuals, or 50 degrees F. The summer mode is above 20 degrees C, or 70 degrees F. The cross-over is 50 to 70 F, and it will never get above 70 F here this time of year, so I have them set to winter mode.

Yup... I screwed up.:censored:

Got the little F thingy mixed up with the C thingy... HAHAHA!opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

Gary

 

[bwalker]

ON my stihl 440, 036, 361, 029, 260 I never used the winter shutter as it only served to make a mess of the air filter.
I also live in a climate where the winter temps rarely get above 25 degrees and in many cases are much less. I have never had a problem with carb icing.

 

[windthrown]

C vs F...

Yup... I screwed up.:censored:

Got the little F thingy mixed up with the C thingy... HAHAHA!opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:

Gary

Yes... I do not know what C temps are. Or Kilometers for that matter. I want temps in :censored: F and distances in :censored: miles!

In our PNW 'winter' conditions I do not think that the summer/winter prefilter positions matter all that much, really. Though the last few weeks had some cold temps here (PNW cold... down in the teens at night, twenties in the day). I was cutting wood with a lot of snow on it last week. This week has been great. 50 degrees here yesterday! I was out brush clearing a skid road yesterday. Scotch brooms out there were 12 ft high.

It also dawned on me that the saw bar oil use is less in winter on all the saws... so I guess I should thin it out or maybe buy some winter bar oil. All this stuff to have to buy and keep around!

 

[windthrown]

Winter flippey thingey

ON my stihl 440, 036, 361, 029, 260 I never used the winter shutter as it only served to make a mess of the air filter.
I also live in a climate where the winter temps rarely get above 25 degrees and in many cases are much less. I have never had a problem with carb icing.

You have a good point there... I noticed that the air filter gets dusted up really fast with the spark plug rubber flippey thingey port open. It also gets the whole carb area dusted up as well. I have to blow the carb area out every time I sharpen the chain, and de-dust the air filter with every other tank of gas. I will flip the flippey thingey back and leave it in summer mode. Here in the PNW, it really is not that cold in winter (compared to Michigan at least, but compared to California is is c-c-c-cold here .

The more I read and post on this here forum, the more I learn about buzz saws. :greenchainsaw:

 

[sloth9669]

BIO oil

hello all none of the local dealers have the bio oil. I figure if iam cutting trees down, cutting them up, then burning them....least i can do is use bio oil in the saw.....any place online i can find it or a '' normal price''

 

[windthrown]

Bio bar oil

hello all none of the local dealers have the bio oil. I figure if iam cutting trees down, cutting them up, then burning them....least i can do is use bio oil in the saw.....any place online i can find it or a '' normal price''

I think buying bar oil online you will get dinged pretty hard for shipping. A gallon of oil is pretty heavy, and probably not worth it with the cost of shipping. My Stihl manual says that 'they' carry the bio stuff... meaning that your local Stihl dealer should carry it. But then maybe they do not. It seems to vary a lot between shops. One thing that the Stihl manual says is to make sure it has stablizer in the bio oil, or it will age fast and break down and turn to resin. Don't want that on your bar and chain.

Lets see, summer bar oil, winter bar oil, and now bio bar oil... Bar bar bar, bar-bar-baranne... :rockn:

 

[windthrown]

Bio bar oil

Called around here today and found bio bar oil at a Stihl/Husky dealer for $20 for 5 liters (tad more than a gallon). $8 for one liter.

'$pensive stuff...

 

[Sethro]

5 bucks.

 

[windthrown]

Winter bar oil temp

How much wood can a woodchuck chuck? We have real live woodchucks here. They make big piles of sticks and stuff in and near slash piles. Woodchuck bar oil looks pretty good from the earlier AS site posts that I read through.

I was looking for boidegradable oil online and found the magic temp for differentiating summer and winter bar oil. 0 degree F. That's -20 C. So I do not need winter bar oil here. It never gets down to 0 F where/when I cut.

 

[Finnbear]

Hey, I remember the days my dad bought nondetergent 30wt in quart cans ( real tin cans) for the bar and oil mix. I thought that it was special kind of oil. It was Phillips 66 oil. The old Bradley ran for twenty years on that oil.:hmm3grin2orange:

Funny you mention that. I worked on an Echo CS4600 a while back for my wife's grandfather and was surprised to read in the manual that Echo specifies SAE 30 MOTOR OIL in summer and SAE 10 MOTOR OIL "in winter or when cutting resinous trees". This saw is only about 10 years old. My personal thoughts on this are that the oiler on this saw is just CHEAP like the rest of the saw and incapable of pumping "stickier" real bar and chain oil but I might just be prejudiced since I'm partial to Stihl saws.
Finnbear

 

[sILlogger]

bar oil

i have learned a little trick when it comes to bar oil, i keep a jug of Lucas Engine oil treatment in my toolbox, if something comes up and i run out of bar oil i take a gallon of motor oil and add a bit of the oil treatment to it. It adds alot of tackiness and thickens the oil up, it works surprisingly well, just a tip if u ever get in a pinch.

 

[windthrown]

Echo echo echo...

Funny you mention that. I worked on an Echo CS4600 a while back for my wife's grandfather and was surprised to read in the manual that Echo specifies SAE 30 MOTOR OIL in summer and SAE 10 MOTOR OIL "in winter or when cutting resinous trees". This saw is only about 10 years old. My personal thoughts on this are that the oiler on this saw is just CHEAP like the rest of the saw and incapable of pumping "stickier" real bar and chain oil but I might just be prejudiced since I'm partial to Stihl saws.
Finnbear

Now now... I use REAL bar oil in our Echo, and it oozes out of the oiler just fine. They are cheaper becasue they cost a lot less. They do run good though. I am becomming more partial to the Stihls, but I used the Echo for a few hours today.

My old Mac 36" has a oil button on it. Saw, squirt, saw saw saw, squirt. Talk about old and crappy... damn thing takes 20 pulls to start. And heavy... man, is it heavy. Vibration from that machine will knock your fillings right out. An ancient relic. No need to go to the gym after using that.