Barber chair

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This has been a long thread. Almost forget that the OP started out asking about binder straps.

Philbert
I threw the challenge out there and I'm glad some took the challenge as a way to learn. More often then not it gets ugly, but you have to test the waters somehow and it turned out good this time.
 
I threw the challenge out there and I'm glad some took the challenge as a way to learn. More often then not it gets ugly, but you have to test the waters somehow and it turned out good this time.

To learn, that's why I'm here. And I've done a lot of it in the last few years I've been on this site. I do a lot more learking/reading than posting.
 
Like in the picture you post at #242. Or is there a face cut opposite the view? I hope that white oak (??) was hung tight seeing the posing under it. Ron
I couldn't place an undercut because the tree shown was wind thrown and hung up in another tree. The tree was already butt shattered, so I just severed it off the stump and winched it down with the skidder. It was a rock maple.
Glad you asked, because I looked like an idiot standing underneath it. Lol
 
Didn't know that was you. Better to look like than be.

I had assumed that the chairing and splits came from stump jumping. Wind sure can put a hurting on a tree but also makes for some serious head scratching - which to me is the enjoyable part whether falling or bucking.

Ron
 
I threw the challenge out there and I'm glad some took the challenge as a way to learn. More often then not it gets ugly, but you have to test the waters somehow and it turned out good this time.
GOOD!!! We've given up all our tricks! I always hold something for a suprise. As the old cliché goes
"I said I taught "you" everything "you" know, not everything "I" know"




*I'm probably good for another 20 pages yet?
Knowledge is power,
but to duplicate is to detectate. It takes your life, one way or another. The ultimate fredom, can turn into the ultimate prison.
 
GOOD!!! We've given up all our tricks! I always hold something for a suprise. As the old cliché goes
"I said I taught "you" everything "you" know, not everything "I" know"
My drinking crew has a logging problem.




*I'm probably good for another 20 pages yet?
Knowledge is power,
but to duplicate is to detectate. It takes your life, one way or another. The ultimate fredom, can turn into the ultimate prison.
 
180 from the lean is sometimes asking too much.

Also, in some cases putting in the back cut first and wedges can help significantly.

If there's something valuable in the way then you do not want that to be your first try with this technique.

All 3 points x 100


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
View attachment 553316 Given that a tree is reasonably solid, there is only two things that can cause a chair other than wind, a dutchman and or too thick holding wood or aggressively yanking the tree over. That's four things. Lol
A p/u in first gear and low range on the transfer case is best.
Choking just below the crown gives plenty of mechanical advantage.
If the cutter remains at the stump to make sure the holding wood isnt too thick while the truck eases ever so slowly forward, then there should be a safety meeting first.

This is a theory I plan to try in the not too distant future, away from anything that matters:

1. A leaning Pine or Oak, >30" in diameter, & at least 75' tall.
2. Set up a pull line at leas 30' off the ground.
3. Start my back cut to about 6", & palm an 8" wedge, easy tapping with axe, till it stops.
4. Tension pull line, either 5/8" or 3/4" stable braid, with my 5:1 MA.
5. Cut a steep face with about 30% dia of the butt, ensuring no dutchman.
6. Further tension my pull line: nothing crazy, but looking for movement vs. previous resistance.
7. Bore in & set my hinge: exactly by the book.
8. Tension a tick more.

At this point, the compression wood should be compromised, no?

9. Continue my back cut with short wedges, working the wedges, pull line, & saw, & watching the top.

I know this sounds long winded, but I'm thinking of a possible future trick for leaning trees near save trees or structures...

Please Critique.

All this is based on the tree being solid, & not Populas, although, with a strap, & the bore cut, why not?
 
This is a theory I plan to try in the not too distant future, away from anything that matters:

1. A leaning Pine or Oak, >30" in diameter, & at least 75' tall.
2. Set up a pull line at leas 30' off the ground.
3. Start my back cut to about 6", & palm an 8" wedge, easy tapping with axe, till it stops.
4. Tension pull line, either 5/8" or 3/4" stable braid, with my 5:1 MA.
5. Cut a steep face with about 30% dia of the butt, ensuring no dutchman.
6. Further tension my pull line: nothing crazy, but looking for movement vs. previous resistance.
7. Bore in & set my hinge: exactly by the book.
8. Tension a tick more.

At this point, the compression wood should be compromised, no?

9. Continue my back cut with short wedges, working the wedges, pull line, & saw, & watching the top.

I know this sounds long winded, but I'm thinking of a possible future trick for leaning trees near save trees or structures...

Please Critique.

All this is based on the tree being solid, & not Populas, although, with a strap, & the bore cut, why not?
Sounds like all bases are covered. Once I cabled a tree and the driver goosed the truck and the dead double crown snaped off and just missed me. It wasn't her fault though, I should have called a safety meeting.
 
This is a theory I plan to try in the not too distant future, away from anything that matters:

1. A leaning Pine or Oak, >30" in diameter, & at least 75' tall.
2. Set up a pull line at leas 30' off the ground.
3. Start my back cut to about 6", & palm an 8" wedge, easy tapping with axe, till it stops.
4. Tension pull line, either 5/8" or 3/4" stable braid, with my 5:1 MA.
5. Cut a steep face with about 30% dia of the butt, ensuring no dutchman.
6. Further tension my pull line: nothing crazy, but looking for movement vs. previous resistance.
7. Bore in & set my hinge: exactly by the book.
8. Tension a tick more.

At this point, the compression wood should be compromised, no?

9. Continue my back cut with short wedges, working the wedges, pull line, & saw, & watching the top.

I know this sounds long winded, but I'm thinking of a possible future trick for leaning trees near save trees or structures...

Please Critique.

All this is based on the tree being solid, & not Populas, although, with a strap, & the bore cut, why not?
Circumstance pending, finish your back cut 100% before the face. Get 3 wedges in the back cut and pounded tight asap, they''ll keep it from pinching your bar. Get the rope tight and reset the wedges. Cut the face and bang away on those wedges and pull the rope.
 
BTW , 180° Off the lean is text book baby.
When it important it's 100% You have to believe it's 100%, not 99.9. Nobody can tell anybody that. You have to know for yourself through experience, or your trusted lead that is there. When its your life then you lead and controll your own environment. We assess and make a realization, never a rationalization.
I would like to share a a bit of history at a later time...about a few of the falling difficulties I have proceeded with, It may take me a half an hour to realize I will do it but I believe 100%
Srry..I haven't comprehended everyones post yet.
Exellent contrabutions from what I see and a little overwelming as to how my brain clicks.
 
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