Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Stump jumper
I threw the challenge out there and I'm glad some took the challenge as a way to learn. More often then not it gets ugly, but you have to test the waters somehow and it turned out good this time.This has been a long thread. Almost forget that the OP started out asking about binder straps.
Philbert
I threw the challenge out there and I'm glad some took the challenge as a way to learn. More often then not it gets ugly, but you have to test the waters somehow and it turned out good this time.
Maybe we can talk WBF into falling a big leaner with just a ratchet strap and one fast backcut, no undercut. Lol
I couldn't place an undercut because the tree shown was wind thrown and hung up in another tree. The tree was already butt shattered, so I just severed it off the stump and winched it down with the skidder. It was a rock maple.Like in the picture you post at #242. Or is there a face cut opposite the view? I hope that white oak (??) was hung tight seeing the posing under it. Ron
Might be hard to fall it back into the bush, but you could back right under it. Bucked and loaded.Think I can drop this one back in the woods? It's got a little lean to it.
View attachment 553426
This guy is an idiot!
GOOD!!! We've given up all our tricks! I always hold something for a suprise. As the old cliché goesI threw the challenge out there and I'm glad some took the challenge as a way to learn. More often then not it gets ugly, but you have to test the waters somehow and it turned out good this time.
GOOD!!! We've given up all our tricks! I always hold something for a suprise. As the old cliché goes
"I said I taught "you" everything "you" know, not everything "I" know"
My drinking crew has a logging problem.
*I'm probably good for another 20 pages yet?
Knowledge is power,
but to duplicate is to detectate. It takes your life, one way or another. The ultimate fredom, can turn into the ultimate prison.
180 from the lean is sometimes asking too much.
Also, in some cases putting in the back cut first and wedges can help significantly.
If there's something valuable in the way then you do not want that to be your first try with this technique.
View attachment 553316 Given that a tree is reasonably solid, there is only two things that can cause a chair other than wind, a dutchman and or too thick holding wood or aggressively yanking the tree over. That's four things. Lol
A p/u in first gear and low range on the transfer case is best.
Choking just below the crown gives plenty of mechanical advantage.
If the cutter remains at the stump to make sure the holding wood isnt too thick while the truck eases ever so slowly forward, then there should be a safety meeting first.
Sounds like all bases are covered. Once I cabled a tree and the driver goosed the truck and the dead double crown snaped off and just missed me. It wasn't her fault though, I should have called a safety meeting.This is a theory I plan to try in the not too distant future, away from anything that matters:
1. A leaning Pine or Oak, >30" in diameter, & at least 75' tall.
2. Set up a pull line at leas 30' off the ground.
3. Start my back cut to about 6", & palm an 8" wedge, easy tapping with axe, till it stops.
4. Tension pull line, either 5/8" or 3/4" stable braid, with my 5:1 MA.
5. Cut a steep face with about 30% dia of the butt, ensuring no dutchman.
6. Further tension my pull line: nothing crazy, but looking for movement vs. previous resistance.
7. Bore in & set my hinge: exactly by the book.
8. Tension a tick more.
At this point, the compression wood should be compromised, no?
9. Continue my back cut with short wedges, working the wedges, pull line, & saw, & watching the top.
I know this sounds long winded, but I'm thinking of a possible future trick for leaning trees near save trees or structures...
Please Critique.
All this is based on the tree being solid, & not Populas, although, with a strap, & the bore cut, why not?
Circumstance pending, finish your back cut 100% before the face. Get 3 wedges in the back cut and pounded tight asap, they''ll keep it from pinching your bar. Get the rope tight and reset the wedges. Cut the face and bang away on those wedges and pull the rope.This is a theory I plan to try in the not too distant future, away from anything that matters:
1. A leaning Pine or Oak, >30" in diameter, & at least 75' tall.
2. Set up a pull line at leas 30' off the ground.
3. Start my back cut to about 6", & palm an 8" wedge, easy tapping with axe, till it stops.
4. Tension pull line, either 5/8" or 3/4" stable braid, with my 5:1 MA.
5. Cut a steep face with about 30% dia of the butt, ensuring no dutchman.
6. Further tension my pull line: nothing crazy, but looking for movement vs. previous resistance.
7. Bore in & set my hinge: exactly by the book.
8. Tension a tick more.
At this point, the compression wood should be compromised, no?
9. Continue my back cut with short wedges, working the wedges, pull line, & saw, & watching the top.
I know this sounds long winded, but I'm thinking of a possible future trick for leaning trees near save trees or structures...
Please Critique.
All this is based on the tree being solid, & not Populas, although, with a strap, & the bore cut, why not?
take a few feet off the top if you want it a lil easierThink I can drop this one back in the woods? It's got a little lean to it.
View attachment 553426
I don't understand the back cut if you plan to bore cut - can you please elaborate on that?This is a theory I plan to try in the not too distant future, away from anything that matters:
. . . Please Critique.