Barber chair

[Philbert]

One advantage of falling in the forest is that you won't find yourself doing this on a regular basis.

You won't ever find me doing that anywhere.

That a big "Nope" here too!

Add me to that list!

Philbert

 

[Westboastfaller]

Somebody is going to flunk out of cutting school LMAO
This is all going to be on the test on Friday

Next problem:..lol

Ok...Saw cerf is 7mm.
8" tree ( 20CM) with a 50% undercut sets back ..BUT you got your saw out.
The tree was near balanced (sky born)
Tree is 60 ft tall, what's the offset?

This is not for my benifit people,
Some of us have an experience overide.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Although I am having fun.
Honesty! This is the only thread I have learnt something in three years on here.
sad to say. Like Philbert just said a bit ago,
"We all learn different, there are a lot of different ways to learn and IF you want to learn you will learn" . I don't care about porting a saw, that's not my profession.
However trouble sooting is. After 27 yrs pro and 25yrs doing it 'youself' , when it comes to trouble sooting and clearences,
You don't want a mechanic running it up on a bench cold with no bar and chain saying 'it's good'! I think, I learnt a few things about myself, and a few things that triped my brain. I love to get back to the theory because math is life; even if it just means counting your money.

 

[hseII]

@rwoods Only if you are a millenial

I think he has been a millennial 3.75 times.

 

[hseII]

fearofpavement, actions like that will never get you on you tube. You'll never be famous.

Although I'm different locations, he & I share the same goals: to have the trees hit the ground, & nothing spendy.

 

[hseII]

One advantage of falling in the forest is that you won't find yourself doing this on a regular basis.
View attachment 555015

I didn't know you climbed Mr. H.

 

[fearofpavement]

I didn't know you climbed Mr. H.

I won't do it on a tree job anymore, just for myself. I'm too old and fat nowadays.

 

[hseII]

I won't do it on a tree job anymore, just for myself. I'm too old and fat nowadays.

But I'm sure you have advice concerning climbing: the reason I'm sure of it is because you are "seasoned".

Old is relative.

 

[fearofpavement]

Here's me up in a "leaner" from storm damage. This thing was really hung up in another tree and needed to get freed up.


This is what the bottom of the tree looked like.

 

[NSMaple1]

Somebody is going to flunk out of cutting school LMAO
This is all going to be on the test on Friday

Next problem:..lol

Ok...Saw cerf is 7mm.
8" tree ( 20CM) with a 50% undercut sets back ..BUT you got your saw out.
The tree was near balanced (sky born)
Tree is 60 ft tall, what's the offset?

This is not for my benifit people,
Some of us have an experience overide.

4'.

Am I close?

 

[Chris-PA]

7mm = 0.276"

4"/0.276" = 14.5

60'/14.5 = 4.1'

 

[old CB]

I was busy, then out of town for a bit, and didn’t see this thread grow. So a couple of things from someone late to the discussion.

1. For anyone who’s not a well-seasoned woodsman, get yourself a copy of Jeff Jepson’s book, To Fell a Tree (mentioned earlier). It’s simple and understandable, and will guide you through most situations you’re likely to encounter.

If you’re going into serious tree work, get Gerald Beranek’s book, The Fundamentals of General Tree Work. It’s the bible, and I’ve gotten more from it than from Dent’s book (which is also very good). Jerry also has videos for sale, and all his stuff is excellent. For climbing work—he’s the guy to pay attention to.

2. Re: the Coos Bay cut mentioned earlier, Beranek’s Coos Bay is different. For large diameter leaners I bore cut, then trip the last bit from behind & a little below. But for smaller heavy leaners, say 20” dbh or less, I use Beranek’s Coos Bay. He points out that when a guy told him about it years back, he thought the guy was nuts—but he found it reliable, and it is. (Like every method, try it first in uncritical situations and have your escape route clear, etc. until you gain experience and confidence.) Diagram attached below.

This Coos Bay has no directional ability—you basically send the tree where it wants to go. But it goes there fine, as long as you have sound stump wood —nothing hollow, punky, or otherwise compromised. Also, you must know the tree’s favor, as the center strip of the cut needs to be lined up in that direction. There are three cuts, and at some point during the third one the tree just pops and breaks clean. As always, you need adequate saw, sharp chain, and no hesitation on the throttle. How wide to make that center strip may be a matter of experience—Beranek says to cut about 1/3 of the diameter from each side, but that would leave a strip 1/3 of diameter remaining, which is beefier than I do it.

I’m no artist, so sorry if my saw looks like a duck-billed Volkswagen on its side.

 

[NSMaple1]

^ I've done something like that before a few times, except I started with a typical notch on the leaning side first. Not a very big one though.

No idea if that was bad or good, and no books read to get there - just what I did. Do I need to dig out my flame suit?

Must try the 3 cut now. Well, when I get into the woods again...

 

[fearofpavement]

So there's no face cut on that one?

 

[Westboastfaller]

4'.

Am I close?

7mm = 0.276"

4"/0.276" = 14.5

60'/14.5 = 4.1'

Going for extra credits for the metric to standard conversion are we.

Ok let see what I come up with.
25.4 mm per inch (2.54 CM)
I'm very unorthodox, I do a lot in my head, I will round off to 25mm × 4 =100
4×7 =28% or 1mm = >4%
>.280"
Looks good chris! Gold star..lol

OK now I'll try the problem
7mm saw cerf 20CM tree

30. 48 cm per foot × 60 ft tree
I'll round up to 30.5 × 60
3×6 =18 add 2 zeros
1800 , 60 ÷ 2 = 30
1830
What I rounded up, I'll subtract now
2 X 60 × 120/ hundreds cm 1.2 cm
1830 - 1.2 cm = 1828.8
Tree Dia 20cm ÷ 2 = 10 cm
7mm trunk offset for ever 10cm climb
(1 to 1 ratio)
1828.8 ÷ 10 move the decimal up.
I'll just round up again and subtract the 1.2cm at the top
183 x 7mm =?
100×7= 700
7x8= 56 add zero 560
3x7 =21
1281mm
The tree was
120mm 1.2 cm shorter
1/10 of a ratio .7cm / 70 mm
1/100 of a ratio =.07 X 2 = .14cm /14 mm
70 + 14 = 84 mm
1281 - 84 = 119.7 cm
We will make it an even 120cm or 1.2 metres is that what you guys got?
Let's see? Round up to 40" per mertre
40" ; thats 4" per "deck" (decimetre; 10cm)
48" 4ft.

...Wait. ..A tree is not cylindrical It's a cone.
That's why we always measure our wood.

0× 8 ÷ 2 = 4" average
48- 4 = 44" 3' 8

Of course you guys did all that and just added it back on for top sag allowance.

In most cases with green trees you wouldn't be able to
wedge that close to the hinge. I did manage to do a pine very similar in December doing beetle kill. It was in a tight stand of dominate 11" pine, top was full of ice crystals and the top 20ft was bending hard.
Yellow ceder and Hemlock a lot shorter I can't move them. Wedging sideways an Inch and a half fron the hinge. If I can and it's really hard then as soon as it opens up the front I will stick one in the front then go back to the side to finish it.
You can always cut another cerf out of one side *lowside* on small diameter
Lowside because once you bottom out you wedge you can drive you second one sideways this sequence it doesn't catch on the rigde of the extra cerf and keeps you working from the high side. Unfortunately sometimes you can pop the top holding wood. I use the K & H 10" because they are designed for sideways wedging with rounder corners at the top.
and are about 3° less than an 8" wedge.
It works for me but others may want to think about modifying a short one by rounding and lowering the degrees.

Ok extra credit for usable volume?
TPF & TPI and (taper per foot/inch) and usable volume; now that would impress me. That's Madhatte area (no pun) I did learn something off him a few months ago. That it's not all about converting cone to cylinder (average) but they may calculate usable board ft (MBF) Obviously this tree is too small. Lol

 

[Trx250r180]

 

[Westboastfaller]

So there's no face cut on that one?

Hey he said he wasn't a very good artist
Get off his case...haha

 

[Trx250r180]

So there's no face cut on that one?

Would not need one on a leaner if cut the sides like that ,i would be worried about it leaning one way or the other and setting on the bar though .

 

[Trx250r180]

Would not need one on a leaner if cut the sides like that ,i would be worried about it leaning one way or the other and setting on the bar though .

Edit :

I personally would T-cut coos bay it so did not set sideways like just cutting the 2 sides .

 

[Westboastfaller]

Right brian, that was my concern, it's overkill. I'll quote your tangles in PNW hardwoods (like I said I was going to).
And we will take it from there.
That's just sloppy with no control and totally unnecessary. I'll finish when I quote your beautiful work. DONE!