Been playing with a MS400C

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It is unclear that the proper recalibration process was carried out after the fuel solenoid was installed???

Chainsaw Recalibration

STIHL M-Tronic Engine Management System is designed to make sure that your petrol tool delivers an optimum performance, all day, every day, by making automatic adjustments to regulate the fuel and air mix to the machine.

There are a couple of instances where you may need to reset the STIHL M-Tronic technology on your machine. If you carry out any work on the fuel system, such as changing a solenoid valve, replacing or cleaning a carburetor or even just replacing an old fuel filter, you will need to do an M-Tronic reset. If you find that the chainsaw isn’t running as expected (for example, not revving to its full potential), it is always worth resetting your machine as this may offer a quick and simple resolution.

There are two methods to reset a petrol machine with STIHL M-Tronic as there have been a number of new and improved versions of M-Tronic launched over the years.

Method 1 is for petrol machines with STIHL M-Tronic technology 2.0 or lower, and

Method 2 for Machines with M-Tronic 2.1 or higher.

It’s easy to tell which version you have by looking at the C-E label. Machines with M-Tronic 2.1 or higher are shown on the label highlighted here. If it’s not marked on the C-E label as M2.1 or M3.0, then it is likely you have an older version of M-Tronic technology.

*Should have used this method for the 400C-M*

🔶 Method for resetting STIHL M-Tronic 2.1 or higher: 🔶

1. Remove the scabbard

2. Ensure the chain brake is on

3. Put the machine in the ▲ Cold start position

4. Start the machine and run it in the ▲ Cold start position for at least 30 seconds but no more than 60 seconds

5. Do not touch the throttle or accelerate the chainsaw during this time

6. Turn off the chain brake

7. Squeeze the throttle fully for at least 30 seconds

8. Engine speed varies noticeably during calibration

9. As soon as the engine speed drops noticeably, release the throttle

10. When the engine is back to idle speed, put the chain brake on and switch off your chainsaw

11. Your chainsaw is now calibrated and ready for operation

---------------
🔶 Method 1 for STIHL M-Tronic re-set: 🔶

1. Remove the scabbard

2. Put the machine in the ▲ Cold start position

3. Start the machine and run it in the ▲ Cold start position for at least 90 seconds

4. Do not touch the throttle or accelerate the chainsaw during this time

5. After 90 seconds, switch off the machine

6. Your machine is now re-calibrated and ready for operation

Always double check your Instruction Manual to make sure you are following the right reset procedure – you can find copies of STIHL Instruction Manuals at stihl.co.uk
Thank You for the Post

We tried both methods BEFORE taking the carb off - no good

We tried to Reset again After New Solenoid installed = no good

Could be:
a.) fuel line
b.) air leak elswhere
c.) Carb
d.) MTronics itself

Well it is at the Dealer now and we'll find out no later then Tuesday.

i appreciate all the helpful posts from everyone as this was our first MTronic

my upcoming 462 will not be MTronic
 
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You know he had the carb apart two times already?
Yea, which probably just introduced a whole other set of potential problems.. the person in question obviously can't troubleshoot or fix anything to save his life. Most dealers suck, but this case it's a case of which sucks less?
I also doubt the carb is bad on a 8 month old saw with 17 hours.
 
I

Yea, which probably just introduced a whole other set of potential problems.. the person in question obviously can't troubleshoot or fix anything to save his life. Most dealers suck, but this case it's a case of which sucks less?
I also doubt the carb is bad on a 8 month old saw with 17 hours.
This is unfortunate
 
Thanks for the follow-up as reading the many post it was unclear the recalibration was done. Were you able to complete the whole process? For your saw only method 2 is used now.
Saw is fixed = it needed a new diaphragm for the carb which i did not have at the time

i have cleaned and repaired many a carb before and never had one fail

with only 8 months and 17 hours on the saw i did not notice any defect in the diaphragm but they are fragile

Again - thanks to those who have the right attitude and mind
 
Saw is fixed = it needed a new diaphragm for the carb which i did not have at the time

i have cleaned and repaired many a carb before and never had one fail

with only 8 months and 17 hours on the saw i did not notice any defect in the diaphragm but they are fragile

Again - thanks to those who have the right attitude and mind
Damn electronics! :laugh:
 
Sounds like you may possibly have wrecked the Diaphragm with that many hours on it
'17 "the original problem might have been the Solenoid till you ripped into it. And if you say you didnt wreck it why the hell did you post you had it apart twice whats with that?
Did the saw fail before or after i cleaned the carb?

BEFORE

Problem could of been BOTH the Solenoid and the diaphragm

With the NEW Solenoid installed it was CLEAR that a new diaphragm completed the fix.
 
Did the saw fail before or after i cleaned the carb?

BEFORE

Problem could of been BOTH the Solenoid and the diaphragm

With the NEW Solenoid installed it was CLEAR that a new diaphragm completed the fix.
So put the Solenoid back in no way it was both 17 hours on it. Nope you should have kept your hands of it! Whats the big deal anyway? Buy a Solo and an Echo and forget stupid Stihls! And tell us why the Carb was apart 2 times will you?
 
So put the Solenoid back in no way it was both 17 hours on it. Nope you should have kept your hands of it! Whats the big deal anyway? Buy a Solo and an Echo and forget stupid Stihls! And tell us why the Carb was apart 2 times will you?
No need now but to enjoy cutting with all my Stihl, Dolmar and Echo saws.

Can't wait to test the 400 to my 620p
 
Well, he did put in the whole kit.

Maybe, just for fun, i'll take the carb apart when i get the saw back.................lol
Good idea ! So you totally sidestepped two good questions! Why was it apart twice and why would the dealer only put one piece of the kit in? You should just plead the 5th!
 
Now he did before you said diaphragm. 4th time Ill ask why did you have the carb apart two times
Im more curious how he didn't notice the diaphragm was bad, I also question if it was the fuel pump or metering diaphragm that was bad.
 
Now he did before you said diaphragm. 4th time Ill ask why did you have the carb apart two times
Go find the Post where it says the "Dealer did not use the whole kit,"

I only mentioned the defective part.

This carb being taken apart twice is really bothering you.

Maybe i should not mention that I had the spark plug taken out 6 times - Oh my! Oh my!

The Bar was off 5 times and the Filter at least as many.
 
Go find the Post where it says the "Dealer did not use the whole kit,"

I only mentioned the defective part.

This carb being taken apart twice is really bothering you.

Maybe i should not mention that I had the spark plug taken out 6 times - Oh my! Oh my!

The Bar was off 5 times and the Filter at least as many.
The point eluded you! What person on here takes stuff apart twice if they put it together right the first time ? Not the ones that claim to have a 100 percent Carb rebuild success rate so it dont add up in my estimation see? You still havn't declared the actual reason for the carb being apart twice just BS ing!
 

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