Best 2 Stroke Oil?

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I would bet that very few users actually recalibrate when changing oil ratios. Those who think "more is better" do not understand lubrication and are unlikely to compensate for it.
Most saw users don't recalibrate. Many don't measure the oil before they dump it in the can. Neither of these makes this test valid.
 
Most saw users don't recalibrate. Many don't measure the oil before they dump it in the can. Neither of these makes this test valid.
It is valid for the way most people would use their saws. And 38 degrees hotter is significant. I still maintain that the proper mix ratio depends on the oil much more than the saw. It depends heavily on how unform the molecular weight is. Today's synthetic oils at a 50:1 ratio may actually provide more net lubrication than the oils of 25 years ago did at 25:1.
 
Sorry, there's nothing to disagree about. 38* doesn't mean crap. You'll see more of a temp swing from running in a cool morning to mid day.
Not to seem rude, but 38 degrees represents a large difference in reaction rate and heat transfer rate. I say this as a Professional Chemical Engineer with more than 45 years' experience. 38 degrees is enough to quadruple reaction rate for many chemical reactions, such as oxidation or polymer chain breakage.
 
Not to seem rude, but 38 degrees represents a large difference in reaction rate and heat transfer rate. I say this as a Professional Chemical Engineer with more than 45 years' experience. 38 degrees is enough to quadruple reaction rate for many chemical reactions, such as oxidation or polymer chain breakage.
Just because you're a chemical engineer doesn't mean you know anything about engines, and I've read enough of your comments to know you're an engine novice at best.
 
Just because you're a chemical engineer doesn't mean you know anything about engines, and I've read enough of your comments to know you're an engine novice at best.
I don't have to know anything about engines to make the point I was making. It is simply a fact that a 38 degree temperature change is significant for any chemical reaction, and that translates to what happens to both the lubricant and other engine parts. At a higher temperature, there will be more thermal breakdown of the oil, resulting in less lubricity. There will be more rapid degradation of the spark plug materials. The muffler will corrode more rapidly. Seals and gaskets will deteriorate more rapidly. They might still last a long time, but the point is whether 38 degrees is a significant temperature difference. Why there was a difference is another topic, but most likely, it was because the excess oil caused the engine to run lean, which raises the temperature and causes a loss of power. The carburetor should have been re-tuned for the increased oil content. Maybe there would not have been a temperature difference if that had been done. It would be interesting to see that experiment done. But I will bring up another possible negative result from using too much oil: smoke. The slight bluish color of 2-cycle engine smoke means the particulates in it are very fine; so fine, in fact, that your lungs cannot filter them out; they go straight into your bloodstream. I remember when I got my first chainsaw, a Remington, which used a 16:1 ratio. I actually got headaches from using it. I don't get any ill results using 50:1 synthetic oil. But my chainsaw use is only about 6 cords of firewood per year plus some timber stand improvement. Those who use a saw to make a living should be a bit concerned about how much smoke they breathe. It should be obvious that a richer oil mixture produces more smoke.
 
How do you know? Where are the test results?
And the things you do to make a 100:1 two stroke oil are counter productive in regards to achieving Jaso FD.
I’m a Saber user but will never run it at a 100:1 mix ratio. Has it shown to be able to be used at that ratio? Yep. But while it does provide sufficient lubrication for the bearings, it’s also shown to have more rapid piston skirt scuffing/polishing. I’ll keep using it, but at the 40:1 ratio that I use in all of my engines. The 80:1 and 100:1 claim is basically for cost savings.

L8R,
Matt
 
How do you know? Where are the test results?
And the things you do to make a 100:1 two stroke oil are counter productive in regards to achieving Jaso FD.
I actually contacted Amsoil's engineering department. They self-certify, which they are permitted to do. They have chosen not to use a third party because they do not wish to disclose certain ingredients in their formulation.
 
You don't know what your talking about, period.
I know exactly what I am talking about. You obviously have no knowledge of kinetics, thermodynamics and heat transfer. And you also can't spell. (There is a difference in meaning between "your" and "you're."
 
I actually contacted Amsoil's engineering department. They self-certify, which they are permitted to do. They have chosen not to use a third party because they do not wish to disclose certain ingredients in their formulation.
It’s basically the same thing as engine oils stating that they meet or exceed the Dexos rating. It meets those standards, but they’re not paying extra to have that stamp put on their oil jugs.

L8R,
Matt
 
Hey guys, been thinking about this lately, what do y'all run in your equipment? I normally run Super Tech full synthetic, or if they're sold out/I forgot to buy some, I run Lucas semi synthetic. I'm wondering if I should switch to a mow name brand oil. Not sure if it matters, but my 2 stroke equipment consists of an Echo 2620 and PB9010T, a Shihl MS260 and Fs55, and a Redmax BCZ260T.
I'm most interested in Echo Red Armor, because of it being red (seems like an added safety for when your tired or distracted) but it's also the most expensive. Also on the table is Redmax full synthetic, Amsoil Saber, VP Racing full synthetic, or more Lucas semi synthetic (it's only semi synthetic, bit it is the cheapest). I'm open to any other brands too.
Thanks in advance!
Courage
I run Shaeffer's 9000 synesthetic 32:1 with E free gas this is my milling saw I have been using for over 4yrs
 

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How much hotter above where they normally run would be a problem? What is the cyl temp on a working saw, and when is it getting into too hot a temp to operate?
never bothered to check a saw. Not uncommon to 400*f under the plug on my rc 2 strokes during extended wot operations when ita 90+ * out. Temp taken with a plug sensor. I'd get worried if it get too much hotter then that. They idle between 150-200*f. Mild temps days sustained wot won't hit 340*f Egt gauge would be more accurate and better way to tell whats going on inside the the cylinder. It's just impractical to worry about it on low output engines. Should be more worried about blocking cooling air when it's cold out then overheating it when it's hot. Most guys runs saws rich to begin with, so even less of a worry as the surplus fuel will help with cylinder cooling.
 
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