You are running nearly as much snake oil in your mix as two stroke oil.
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Viscosity, film strength
Let’s clear this up, as there seems to be some confusion about the difference between film thickness and film strength, and how that relates to viscosity. First of all, viscosity and film strength are material properties. They can be measured independently of operating conditions in an engine. Viscosity is the ratio of shear stress to velocity gradient, and is commonly stated as cP or mPa-s, and has dimensions of (mass/length*time). It can be measured on a simple viscometer, or for non-Newtonian fluids, a rheometer can be used. Viscosity itself does not necessarily determine lubricity. STP oil treatment, honey and glycerin all have similar viscosities but not equal lubricating properties. Film strength is the compressive strength a fluid can undergo before it is squeezed out of a gap under quasi-static conditions. It has units of Pa or psi. It has dimensions of (mass/length*time squared), so it clearly is not the same thing as viscosity. Some ways that have been devised to measure it are the Timken apparatus and the 4-ball test. Yes, these tests do not resemble operating conditions in an engine. But what matters in an engine is film thickness, not film strength per se. The film thickness should be great enough to prevent metal-to-metal contact. The film thickness depends on a lot of things, including viscosity, density, film strength, roughness of the parts being lubricated, relative velocity of the parts, surface tension and the geometry of the parts. The latter can be very important. An example of how important that can be is a product from another industry: dry-running mechanical seals. These seals have two flat faces, one of which has inwardly-facing spiral grooves. Under dynamic conditions, above a certain rotational speed, the grooves cause pressure in the air film to be enough to slightly separate the seal faces, resulting in an air film sufficiently thick to prevent the seal faces from contacting, resulting in long seal life. No one would ever say air is a good lubricant. Yet the seal design and operating conditions create a hydrodynamic condition of virtually no wear. Yes, this is a bit of a nerdy post but I hope it will clarify the terminology a bit. As for 2-cycle oil, use whatever JASO FD oil you prefer.
Let’s clear this up, as there seems to be some confusion about the difference between film thickness and film strength, and how that relates to viscosity. First of all, viscosity and film strength are material properties. They can be measured independently of operating conditions in an engine. Viscosity is the ratio of shear stress to velocity gradient, and is commonly stated as cP or mPa-s, and has dimensions of (mass/length*time). It can be measured on a simple viscometer, or for non-Newtonian fluids, a rheometer can be used. Viscosity itself does not necessarily determine lubricity. STP oil treatment, honey and glycerin all have similar viscosities but not equal lubricating properties. Film strength is the compressive strength a fluid can undergo before it is squeezed out of a gap under quasi-static conditions. It has units of Pa or psi. It has dimensions of (mass/length*time squared), so it clearly is not the same thing as viscosity. Some ways that have been devised to measure it are the Timken apparatus and the 4-ball test. Yes, these tests do not resemble operating conditions in an engine. But what matters in an engine is film thickness, not film strength per se. The film thickness should be great enough to prevent metal-to-metal contact. The film thickness depends on a lot of things, including viscosity, density, film strength, roughness of the parts being lubricated, relative velocity of the parts, surface tension and the geometry of the parts. The latter can be very important. An example of how important that can be is a product from another industry: dry-running mechanical seals. These seals have two flat faces, one of which has inwardly-facing spiral grooves. Under dynamic conditions, above a certain rotational speed, the grooves cause pressure in the air film to be enough to slightly separate the seal faces, resulting in an air film sufficiently thick to prevent the seal faces from contacting, resulting in long seal life. No one would ever say air is a good lubricant. Yet the seal design and operating conditions create a hydrodynamic condition of virtually no wear. Yes, this is a bit of a nerdy post but I hope it will clarify the terminology a bit. As for 2-cycle oil, use whatever JASO FD oil you prefer.
Lot of money you are wasting.
.....
Vacation and other stuff.
You waited five weeks to bring this up? Get a life dude.
Glad to see you have admitted what I have said all along...
Should have stayed on vacation.
Guys love the snake oil.
I don't use it and everything is good !
barfer
I like chopping wood
Seafoam is just water… (I mean I know it’s more than that but really it’s mostly water)
I’d *never* deliberately add water to a fuel tank.
But you could pour seafoam directly into a running carburetor… same way you can pour a beer can full of water into a carburetor and it’ll supposedly clean out carbon from your pistons, valves and exhaust manifold and whatnot (shrug) I wouldn’t do it but I’ve seen it done.
My youngest brother (who has maybe the worst common sense of anyone I know) has a chemical engineering phd and he *loves* seafoam (?!)
But mostly I think he just likes showing off silly party tricks like boiling water in a paper bag and pouring water into a running carb and the like (shrug)
Sea Foam has no water in it. Don't post things like this that are blatantly untrue. It might not work as you like but to compare it to pouring beer into a carb, don't do that, is ridiculous.
Per the current MSDS, Sea Foam is 40-60% Pale Oil (CAS 64742-54-7), 25-35% Naphtha, and 10-20% Isopropyl Alcohol "IPA".
If Sea Foam did contain water it wouldn't show up on a MSDS because it isn't toxic.
With that said Sea Foam doesn't do a damn thing as far as removing carbon goes.
