Best 2 Stroke Oil?

[norbert77]

My saws I tried Castrol, ECHO, Stihl and a few others, none of them made it run as good as the Lucas semi synthetic, of which I run the marine version . My friend with a few hundred acres of bush told me about it I figured it was a gimmick. Nope.

 

[bwalker]

My saws I tried Castrol, ECHO, Stihl and a few others, none of them made it run as good as the Lucas semi synthetic, of which I run the marine version . My friend with a few hundred acres of bush told me about it I figured it was a gimmick. Nope.

I've seen enough evidence that Lucas air cooled oil is terrible stuff, let alone the Lycas made for boats.
Oil doesn't really effect how a saw runs. It may effect tuning, but you should be tuning for your fuel and atmospheric conditions often anyways.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

My saws I tried Castrol, ECHO, Stihl and a few others, none of them made it run as good as the Lucas semi synthetic, of which I run the marine version . My friend with a few hundred acres of bush told me about it I figured it was a gimmick. Nope.

Why are you using the marine version when they make one for air cooled engines like chainsaws?

 

[Ed Penney]

After reading all of these post I'm sticking to the one I have been using. I like the fact that even when the engine is hot or cold the oil film stays on the cylinder, piston and in the ports. I run a little bit more oil in the fuel just for the peace of mind. 45:1 Make sense to me that if the oil is clinging the possible dirt, fines, carbon etc. isn't. Torn down one engine (a clone) just to see the wear patterns on cheap stuff. After approx 40 solid hours on FT clone 460 very little wear and no carbon even on the plug, comparatively that means my real saws are not wearing at all. Proof enough for me, ECHO RED ARMOR, BARR NONE

 

[bwalker]

After reading all of these post I'm sticking to the one I have been using. I like the fact that even when the engine is hot or cold the oil film stays on the cylinder, piston and in the ports. I run a little bit more oil in the fuel just for the peace of mind. 45:1 Make sense to me that if the oil is clinging the possible dirt, fines, carbon etc. isn't. Torn down one engine (a clone) just to see the wear patterns on cheap stuff. After approx 40 solid hours on FT clone 460 very little wear and no carbon even on the plug, comparatively that means my real saws are not wearing at all. Proof enough for me, ECHO RED ARMOR, BARR NONE

You won't have an issue that oil related with that oil. It's amongst the best for saw use.

 

[sean donato]

After reading all of these post I'm sticking to the one I have been using. I like the fact that even when the engine is hot or cold the oil film stays on the cylinder, piston and in the ports. I run a little bit more oil in the fuel just for the peace of mind. 45:1 Make sense to me that if the oil is clinging the possible dirt, fines, carbon etc. isn't. Torn down one engine (a clone) just to see the wear patterns on cheap stuff. After approx 40 solid hours on FT clone 460 very little wear and no carbon even on the plug, comparatively that means my real saws are not wearing at all. Proof enough for me, ECHO RED ARMOR, BARR NONE

It's certainly a very good oil. Been quite impressed with it since I switched over. Always a strong oil film on internal parts, pooling in the crankcase and burns very clean with little carbon build up. Other then the price, I'm a fan of it.

 

[Sidecarflip]

I might add that the ONE thing I always do when filling the fuel and oil tanks is, before I fill them or remove the caps, I take a small brush and remove any accumulated swarf from around them. Never had to replace the in tank fuel or oil filters either. I really like the creamer bottles for bar oil. They fill without mess and are very controlable plus the snap close lids don't leak. Far as gas cans are concerned, all the EPA mandated ones are crap so I toss the crap spouts and replace them with aftermarket ones.

 

[Sidecarflip]

After reading all of these post I'm sticking to the one I have been using. I like the fact that even when the engine is hot or cold the oil film stays on the cylinder, piston and in the ports. I run a little bit more oil in the fuel just for the peace of mind. 45:1 Make sense to me that if the oil is clinging the possible dirt, fines, carbon etc. isn't. Torn down one engine (a clone) just to see the wear patterns on cheap stuff. After approx 40 solid hours on FT clone 460 very little wear and no carbon even on the plug, comparatively that means my real saws are not wearing at all. Proof enough for me, ECHO RED ARMOR, BARR NONE

Thats me but with canned gas.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

Red Armor is very popular. Has anyone tested Echo's Gold oil? That's what they give you in the box with a new tool.

 

[sean donato]

small landscaper I do work for occasionally runs echo gold. Same quality as redmax/ husqy oil imo. I'd run it.

 

[Ed Penney]

I might add that the ONE thing I always do when filling the fuel and oil tanks is, before I fill them or remove the caps, I take a small brush and remove any accumulated swarf from around them. Never had to replace the in tank fuel or oil filters either. I really like the creamer bottles for bar oil. They fill without mess and are very controlable plus the snap close lids don't leak. Far as gas cans are concerned, all the EPA mandated ones are crap so I toss the crap spouts and replace them with aftermarket ones.

I am a diehard for military Jerry cans. I use 1 gallon bar oil jug to carry my fuel in the field working. I don't use alkalate type premix, I can go through five gallons of premix in less than 2 weeks. 5 gallons 92 octane and a bottle of R.A. about the same price as a gallon of canned fuel. Maybe two seasons left in me at 69, I know you never did it for a living. I would probably buy canned fuel if I didn't. But I also wouldn't have all my wood harvesting equipment to fuel up 2 trucks 2 trailers 2 splitters and too many saws if there is such a thing.