sure, grab a lawyer. Either way, you can't pass both tests, it's impossible. You can't have an ash formulated oil and ashless formulated oil at the same time.
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I understand! I'll call Schaeffers today and ask again, maybe someone more knowledgable?,??
They produce some of the best petroleum products available. Been using them on the farm for 30-years without issues!
I could see some tribologist coming up with some new lubrication wrinkle that "meets or exceeds" both boat oil and aircooled oil specs, and thus making the claim, without any third party testing or meeting industry standard specs. It may be a legit breakthrough in lubrication tech and in ten years we'll all be going yup that's the new standard oil everyone runs.
More likely is that you can run any two stroke oil(or pretty much any oil) in any equipment and it won't blow up immediately, and that's all most people consider. "Ahhhve run boat oyl for ten ye-uhs and never had a prob-lem, y'all just wasting money with your fancy oyls!" Great, in that decade you've had 15 hours of trigger time spread over four saws, you could run brylcream as two stroke lube and your saws would be fine. A logger putting 15 hours trigger time on one saw in a day and a half is an entirely different animal.
More likely is that you can run any two stroke oil(or pretty much any oil) in any equipment and it won't blow up immediately, and that's all most people consider. "Ahhhve run boat oyl for ten ye-uhs and never had a prob-lem, y'all just wasting money with your fancy oyls!" Great, in that decade you've had 15 hours of trigger time spread over four saws, you could run brylcream as two stroke lube and your saws would be fine. A logger putting 15 hours trigger time on one saw in a day and a half is an entirely different animal.
There's a big part of the issue. People don't understand there are specifications for different applications, and the reasons for those specifications. No water cooled boat engine mfg says to use a jaso rated oil, just like no (nearly no) o.p.e. mfg says it's OK to use a tcw3 rated oil.
But, there been using brand x for 500 years and it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. Please. If any of these brands were as great as they claim they would do the tests, provide the test data, and be mainstream accepted by major corporations that have millions and billions invested in engine powered equipment with hundreds of thousands of running hours to back up the mfg statement of having the best oil on the market. Truth is they make up a very small percentage of oil sales and need the shoddy sales tactics to get people to buy their one for all products and bank on the consumer never using the product hard or long enough to have issues.
James G
ArboristSite Lurker
'too many saws if there is such a thing." Nope. No such thing.
Here is Schaeffer's response to having one oil being JASO FD and TCW3 rated:
JASO FD is generally considered to have higher detergency and cleaning capabilities compared to TC-W3, meaning it is better at keeping the engine clean, while TC-W3 is primarily focused on lubrication and performance in marine applications like boat engines; however, both standards ensure adequate lubrication for two-stroke engines. When comparing TC-W3 and JASO FD oil specifications, TC-W3 has significantly lower ash content requirements, meaning it is considered "ashless" and is specifically designed to be very low in ash, while JASO FD allows for a higher ash level; this is because TC-W3 is primarily intended for marine outboard engines where low ash content is crucial to prevent exhaust system fouling, whereas JASO FD is a broader specification that can be used in various two-stroke engines with potentially higher ash content needs depending on application.
Essentially, our oil meets the TC-W3 ash requirements but since it also meets the higher detergency of JASO FD, it can meet both specifications.
So it's a ashless boat oil, which is made for water cooled engines, which no matter how they try to twist it. Isn't a jaso fd oil. There's your answer. You're using a tcw3 boat oil.
They tell the same lie, and I say that after using klotz for years when dad raced unlimited offshore. Great oil, it's not made for a chainsaw.
Doesn't matter how they polish up the specs. It can't meet both specs. It's really that simple.
Have you ever used Opti2 or Stens Shield?
No, and no.
Edit: no to opti2 for 2 strokes. I have used their 4 stroke oil once. Got a jug at a yard sale and ran it in one of the old oil burning kt17 powered mowers I had at the time. Cleared the mosquitos pit just like everyother oil I put in it.
echomeister
ArboristSite Operative
The secret answer to an oil thread based on reading ALL of these SO*'s
Weighing the opinions favoring those with lots of reaction score, THIS is the answer!
Use a FD rated oil for air cooled two cycle engines that won't carbon it up when mixed 32:1
Moar oil is betta.
Weighing the opinions favoring those with lots of reaction score, THIS is the answer!
Use a FD rated oil for air cooled two cycle engines that won't carbon it up when mixed 32:1
Moar oil is betta.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/multi-purpose-2-cycle-oils-how-is-this-possible.181107/ more reading if interested.No, and no.
Edit: no to opti2 for 2 strokes. I have used their 4 stroke oil once. Got a jug at a yard sale and ran it in one of the old oil burning kt17 powered mowers I had at the time. Cleared the mosquitos pit just like everyother oil I put in it.
Modern saws at 32:1 would foul plugs, build carbon, be low on power. It's too much oil! Loggers here run 40:1 and that's on modified saws.
That's an old thread, with a lot of outdated information at this point. Api hasn't had an official 2 stroke oil standard in years, and fc was replaced with fd many years ago now.
Incorrect. FD rated oils will be fine at 16:1, as long as you tune for it.
