Chainsaw_Maniac
ArboristSite Operative
*** Would you believe I had to split this post in half cuz the forum wont exempt a post this long? 
***
Other ways to save time:
I don't use one, but I've seen people that do. I've also seen a factory made wood splitter with it's own conveyer at an equipment show. (A very nicely built unit with lots of speed, power and durability, and you can even drive it around, but it was pricey at $9000 CAN).
My opinion is that it is only efficient you are buying scrap logs from a sawmill or you gather up all your wood together on a big pile before you split it. You don't want to have to move the conveyer more than a few times a day,a and even then you don't want to move it very far. Obviously when you move the conveyer you're going to have to move your truck or trailer to be directly under the conveyer so the wood falls in it.
So basically after you split a piece drop it on the conveyer and it goes in the trailer. If the wood is already split then you'd be better off using a loader tractor (if you have one). Also, normally when you split it you aren't bringing it direct to the customer, so in that case you'd have to unload it again and then load it back up again when it's seasoned. Bottom line I don't recommend a conveyer.
Um, 372 XP I guess, but I don't even want to get sucked into the saw vs saw debates.
40-50 hp? That's plenty. Tractors in that size have a PTO and hydraulic remotes standard and most of them are available with loaders and/ or 4WD. The only disadvantages you'd have with a 40 hp as opposed to a 65 hp is: (1) The hydraulic flow is normally less than so you'd have slightly slower less powerful woodsplitter (2) The pulling power is less (3) PTO attachments like a winch will be less powerful. (4) You wont be modding the front bucket any time soon to hold more wood cuz the loader power will be slightly less. (You should still be able to get a full cord loaded in 2-4 bucketfuls though)
The pulling power is still enough to pull whatever you normally want to pull and you can always cut the tree in half in pull the halves separately. I'd actually saw that 40-50 hp is ideal for this kind of thing unless you want to cut 300 + cord or you do heavy farm work on the side with it.
Like I said I think hydraulic remote is better if you have can attach it. (Some tractors don't have it). If you do go that rout, then tell me how you like it cuz as I said I've only seen that style very rarely.
As for 4 way wedge, it works well on wood up to 12" in diameter but when you get into gnarly or large diameter wood then it tends to get stuck and not be able to split it. I use the plain old 2 way most of the time. (If you get 4 way make sure it's detachable and you can put a 2 way in).
That's a good set up. I wouldn't feel disadvantaged in the least using that for a part time operation. I don't use chains either.
***Other ways to save time:
- Make sure your saws are sharp and in perfect working order. Keep extra chains in your toolbox and sharpen the dull ones in your workshop.
- Don't try and limb with a saw that's too heavy and makes you tiered or buck with a saw that's too small and takes too long. I frequently switch back and forth between saws when I'm limbing and bucking the tree.
- If possible skid the tree to where you want to block it up and split the wood right there.
- Plan it right and you can get away with never stacking up the wood at all during the entire process. (If you dry it in a loose pile and you measure it loosely). Note that drying it in a loose pile takes longer and you have to watch out for fungus and rot. In a good spot sunny and windy spot you can still dry a loose pile for sale the next fall if it's winter or spring cut or after a full year if it's summer or fall cut. The summer months are the essential drying period. A pile that has had June, July, August and September to dry in a good spot will be dryer than a pile sitting for a full year in a less than ideal spot. Wood gets worse rather than better if it sits for over a year.
- If you are selling it as 16 inch pieces try and keep the pieces 15-17 inches. Don't cheat yourself and cut them overly long because that requires more wood and more transport. Also when rough estimating a cord by dumping it in a truck or trailer loosely don't give them way too much wood. Just make sure you aren't giving them too little.
- A modifies loader bucket can be constructed which is made to so you can stack in half a cord (or whatever) or make one where you can throw the wood in loosely. (That style requires some careful testing and calculation though if you want to measure it that way).
- You waste a lot of time if you deal with people that only want small amounts, especially if you have to deliver.
I don't use one, but I've seen people that do. I've also seen a factory made wood splitter with it's own conveyer at an equipment show. (A very nicely built unit with lots of speed, power and durability, and you can even drive it around, but it was pricey at $9000 CAN).
My opinion is that it is only efficient you are buying scrap logs from a sawmill or you gather up all your wood together on a big pile before you split it. You don't want to have to move the conveyer more than a few times a day,a and even then you don't want to move it very far. Obviously when you move the conveyer you're going to have to move your truck or trailer to be directly under the conveyer so the wood falls in it.
So basically after you split a piece drop it on the conveyer and it goes in the trailer. If the wood is already split then you'd be better off using a loader tractor (if you have one). Also, normally when you split it you aren't bringing it direct to the customer, so in that case you'd have to unload it again and then load it back up again when it's seasoned. Bottom line I don't recommend a conveyer.
Originally posted by wolfman
I have to do now is figure out whether I should by the 372 or the Dolmar 7900 and I am good.
Um, 372 XP I guess, but I don't even want to get sucked into the saw vs saw debates.
40-50 hp? That's plenty. Tractors in that size have a PTO and hydraulic remotes standard and most of them are available with loaders and/ or 4WD. The only disadvantages you'd have with a 40 hp as opposed to a 65 hp is: (1) The hydraulic flow is normally less than so you'd have slightly slower less powerful woodsplitter (2) The pulling power is less (3) PTO attachments like a winch will be less powerful. (4) You wont be modding the front bucket any time soon to hold more wood cuz the loader power will be slightly less. (You should still be able to get a full cord loaded in 2-4 bucketfuls though)
The pulling power is still enough to pull whatever you normally want to pull and you can always cut the tree in half in pull the halves separately. I'd actually saw that 40-50 hp is ideal for this kind of thing unless you want to cut 300 + cord or you do heavy farm work on the side with it.
Like I said I think hydraulic remote is better if you have can attach it. (Some tractors don't have it). If you do go that rout, then tell me how you like it cuz as I said I've only seen that style very rarely.
As for 4 way wedge, it works well on wood up to 12" in diameter but when you get into gnarly or large diameter wood then it tends to get stuck and not be able to split it. I use the plain old 2 way most of the time. (If you get 4 way make sure it's detachable and you can put a 2 way in).
That's a good set up. I wouldn't feel disadvantaged in the least using that for a part time operation. I don't use chains either.
