Best value in chainsaw files

[deye223]

I stay away from any glassed over saw teeth. Thats what will wreck a file in short order.

So will trying to run a file over a tooth that still has bar oil on it .

 

[sean donato]

So will trying to run a file over a tooth that still has bar oil on it .

So just out of curiosity, your in the woods and knick your chain, do you just replace the slightly dull chain, degrease it and file, or grab the file and touch it up?
I havent had any lifespan issues by just grabbing the file and going over the chain, nor when I'm in the woods do I have time to clean each cutter to make sure its oil free. Now if there was dirt that the oil glued to the chain, that may be a different story, but just oil doesnt concern me a bit. When the files dull it just needs replaced. Imo.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I personally never really.. cleaned my chains before sharpening them. That said in the filing room we cleaned each saw be it band saw or my sash gang's with either Kerosene or something called Tap Free . It was really made for use when tapping threads in metal to clean the swarth out of the hole while tapping. Tree / Pine tree sap would quickly plug a file and glaze over the face of our grinder wheels. We kept the Kerosene in trigger pump sprayer bottles similar to like a 409 or Windex bottle but only industrial. I don't put the same value on a $16.00 chain saw chain as I did on my Laser cut Gang Saws or a 40 foot long double cut band saw blade.

However cleaning your saw chain would definitely help keep your file cleaner and cutting better longer.
Another thing we did was use blocks of blue carpenters chalk to lube the saw teeth before swaging and shaping. The chalk also served an untended second benefit, something no one here has mentioned so I will.
When the chalk is applied to a file it fills the tooth "gullet" of the file thus preventing metal filings from building up and plugging up the file.

The chalk we used was the same blue chalk that you use in a carpenters chalk line,.. but in a solid "puck type" form. Picture a tennis ball made of blue carpenters chalk then cut in half like the cake shaped portion of a whoopie pie,.....whoopie pie... in my best Homer Simpson voice "ararrrrrgargle"

 

[deye223]

So just out of curiosity, your in the woods and knick your chain, do you just replace the slightly dull chain, degrease it and file, or grab the file and touch it up?
I havent had any lifespan issues by just grabbing the file and going over the chain, nor when I'm in the woods do I have time to clean each cutter to make sure its oil free. Now if there was dirt that the oil glued to the chain, that may be a different story, but just oil doesnt concern me a bit. When the files dull it just needs replaced. Imo.

You just run the chain in clean wood for about 3 seconds clean the oil off the Cutters and I've never been able to even get half way around a 24 inch bar if the Cutters have oil all over them a brand new file will be buggered .
Must be the bar or will we get here in bulk in Australia it's not actually oil it's what they flash through the pipes at the refinery with a lot of tackifier added.

And all my sharpening is on the go with a file do not even own a grinder never will and a chain comes off when is buggered brand new one goes on day in day out

 

[sean donato]

You just run the chain in clean wood for about 3 seconds clean the oil off the Cutters and I've never been able to even get half way around a 24 inch bar if the Cutters have oil all over them a brand new file will be buggered .
Must be the bar or will we get here in bulk in Australia it's not actually oil it's what they flash through the pipes at the refinery with a lot of tackifier added.

And all my sharpening is on the go with a file do not even own a grinder never will and a chain comes off when is buggered brand new one goes on day in day out

Cant say I've had major clogging issues with the oil I use, grinder use the chains get cleaned as not to gum up the stone, but I typically just touch up the chain and get at it again. Changing chains normally only gets done if I rock it, or just something in the log. I also dont do production felling, so there may be some differences in how we do things.

 

[sbhooper]

Files are cheap. Why bother spending the time and money to acid bath them, or whatever gimmick someone can dream up? Good grief.

 

[Philbert]

I personally never really.. cleaned my chains before sharpening them.
Another thing we did was use blocks of blue carpenters chalk . . . When the chalk is applied to a file it fills the tooth "gullet" of the file thus preventing metal filings from building up and plugging up the file.

Not to change a 'filing thread' into a 'grinding thread', but I prefer to clean chains before grinding, when I can, to prevent filling up of the grinding wheel. Hard to do in the field (yes, I have set up grinders in the field on multi-day storm cleanup responses). I tried the wax stick ('Kool-Grind'), but was not impressed.

Chalking files has been mentioned several times in these threads, over the years. I have not personally tried it.

Files are cheap. Why bother spending the time and money to acid bath them, or whatever gimmick someone can dream up? Good grief.

If a simple brushing, or brief soak in a degreaser, extends the utility of the file, why not do that? That said, if you use a water based detergent dry them good: they can rust fast!

Files are absolutely a consumable. but that is no reason to not try and get the full life out of them. I keep them in the original packaging, or plastic drinking straws, or wrap them in cloth or paper, to keep them from banging into each other in tool boxes, etc., where the brittle teeth collide, Not like my friends at Harbor Freight.



Philbert

 

[Jeff Lary]

I started using soda straws a few years back and as a benefit I am able to write the file size in marker on the straws it works well for me. My eyes are not like they were years back and 7/32nds in big black letters on a white straw is easy to read.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Philbert might like this tip. I use a 5/32" round file to enlarge the holes in a drive link because sometimes they are a hair small for the preset link as you go from one brand of chain to the next. The file seems to work better than a drill bit and seems much faster. It doesn't take much.

 

[windthrown]

I'd be interested to know if you do find out. I happen to be a fellow in New Zealand too...

Well, I dug through my box of old saw parts and dead files, and found the name. They are Save Edge files out of Ohio. Not made here though, they are marked Portugal, as in Made in Portugal. They are great sharp files. Fast filing, and they last longer than my Stihl files. They are highly regarded on several of the other tree butcher forums. Amicks seems to have the best price for them online.

 

[sundance]

Has anyone had any experience renewing their files with acid? Would it change the diameter enough to be significant?

In past years there were several threads claiming that soaking in white vinegar sometimes restored files. Never tried it but a site search for "vinegar and files" will find some of the threads.

 

[sean donato]

Well, I dug through my box of old saw parts and dead files, and found the name. They are Save Edge files out of Ohio. Not made here though, they are marked Portugal, as in Made in Portugal. They are great sharp files. Fast filing, and they last longer than my Stihl files. They are highly regarded on several of the other tree butcher forums. Amicks seems to have the best price for them online.

Save edge is my preferred file, but they must have changed sources for materials, the blanks are claimed to be made in Europe, and machined here in the states. Idk what's been going on with them, but they arw mostly out of stock, and the few files they have in stock have soared in price. I've kicked back to pferd files when I run out of my current stash of save edge files.

 

[windthrown]

Portugal is in Europe. Save Edge files are still made in Portugal according to their web site and Amazon/Facebook and other places. I think it is just a EU labeling or exporting/importing thing is all. Accordingly the file blanks are made in Portugal and they are sharpened in the US (in Ohio). They make all kinds of files and rasps for forestry, woodworking and cabinetry.

 

[J D]

In past years there were several threads claiming that soaking in white vinegar sometimes restored files. Never tried it but a site search for "vinegar and files" will find some of the threads.

I just did a fairly crude experiment on a few files that were about ready for the scrap bin... Soaked em in brake parts cleaner first, then filed an old bar with half a dozen strokes. To my surprise they all worked considerably better, the Bacho 4mm performed almost as new. I then dipped them in an acid solution (phosphoric + HCl) for about 20 mins. Neutralized, dried & repeated the test. All performed worse than after the cleaning (especially the Bacho). I suspect I left them in the acid a bit too long, but it got me thinking... I wonder if the acid working for people is more to do with it cleaning/dissolving gunk than it sharpening the cutters

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I just did a fairly crude experiment on a few files that were about ready for the scrap bin... Soaked em in brake parts cleaner first, then filed an old bar with half a dozen strokes. To my surprise they all worked considerably better, the Bacho 4mm performed almost as new. I then dipped them in an acid solution (phosphoric + HCl) for about 20 mins. Neutralized, dried & repeated the test. All performed worse than after the cleaning (especially the Bacho). I suspect I left them in the acid a bit too long, but it got me thinking... I wonder if the acid working for people is more to do with it cleaning/dissolving gunk than it sharpening the cutters

Try a light spray of CRC or WD40- will clean gunk and not damage/round over the cutting edge.

 

[Philbert]

Have not used either of these brands, but wanted to note the file storage: plastic sleeves inside a hard plastic case.
Notch - Treestuff.com


Forester - Alhborn Equipment


Several years back, I looked into buying just the telescoping plastic cases, to use for storing saw chains (like the ones Home Depot sells theirs in). It was something like $2-$3 a piece, and I had to buy a large quantity, So, easier to save whatever packaging your files come in, and re-use it, if possible.

EDIT: Note that Notch will also sell you an empty plastic box for $4.99!

Philbert

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Have not used either of these brands, but wanted to note the file storage: plastic sleeves inside a hard plastic case.
Notch - Treestuff.com


Forester - Alhborn Equipment


Several years back, I looked into buying just the telescoping plastic cases, to use for storing saw chains (like the ones Home Depot sells theirs in). It was something like $2-$3 a piece, and I had to buy a large quantity, So, easier to save whatever packaging your files come in, and re-use it, if possible.

Philbert

Ramset brand masonry drill bits used to come in telescoping cases like that- more square section that rectangular- but a 12 X 200 or 250mm case would hold a few files in drinking straw sleeves. Find yourself a buddy in construction.......

 

[J D]

Plumbing suppliers have ridgid plastic tube for connecting water coolers etc (1/4" & 3/8") for a dollar or 2 per meter. You can cut it to length, heat & squeeze the ends slightly & they will deform so it will retain the file (just squeeze the oval back to a circle to insert/remove file).
I have also used electrical appliance lead in the past... Remove the outer insulation by cutting it down it's length, trim to suit & slot file into it.
Disclaimer: Be sure the lead is not plugged in or attached to something your wife likes before trying this.

 

[SteveSr]

A tale of 4 Files... From the bottom up!

1. Oregon P/N 70503 3/16" (4.8mm) Swiss Made. The box that this one came from is probably 3-5 years old.

2. Stihl 3/16" Came in an "orange wrap" sharpening kit. Also probably 3-5 years old.

3. Vallorbe 3/16" (4.8mm) 12x DX - Part number LC10000-03-316. Bought less than 3 months ago.

4. Pferd 13/64" (5.16mm) Classic Line Part number 17048. Bought less than 3 months ago.

So far I have mainly tried the Oregon and the Pferd. Not tremendously pleased with the longevity of either and this is sharpening mostly Stihl chains. Another issue with the Pferd (and maybe Vallorbe) is that the file tang is too amall to grab in a Stihl wooden file handle. I had to shim a toothpick to use the wooden handle.

I also notice that the Stihl appears to be a coarser single cut file. The Oregon and Vallorbe are double cut and I have no idea what the Pferd is as it appears to be unique. Also it would appear that neither Pferd or Vallorbe make files for Stihl unless Pferd has a considerably different process for making Stihl files.

 

[cookies]

pferd makes stihl files to stihl's requirements, pferd seems to be using a spiral cut for the second cutting edge, their "premium" files are very similar to the original version but finer with a hair more teeth. I did a experiment on a set of pferd files, I pulled the round files from one of my 2 in one files that have been used a lot, covered in metal particles embedded in the teeth. I rubbed them with strait dawn dish soap using my hands/fingers under running water in the sink. This seemed to remove the majority of the metal filings from their teeth and they filed like new again. Will it last? are they dulled any? idk but it definitely improved their cutting!