buckwheat
ArboristSite Guru
The red oak I am burning has been split and stacked for two seasons. Many of the trees were/are dead before I drop them, so it's very low moisture.
max2cam said:Yep, you takes what you can obtain for the least effort and cost. I like your motto: "Max BTU; min $$".
There are ppl I know who refuse to burn "softwoods" of any description due to their belief that it will clog their chimney with creosote leading to a fatal chimney fire. They have nice dry standing dead jackpine all around their place but will BUY scrub oak or birch that they still have to cut up and split. They pay $$ plus still have most of the work to do anyway.
bwalker said:Max, the name of Negaunee, which means “pioneer” in Chippewa.
I was told Black Cherry, Walnut, Black Locust, Black/Red/White Oak in that order....any truth?
Hi, I'm new here. I have a wood burning stove in my house that I made 5 years ago (I'm also a welder). Anyhow, I mostly burn red oak and that seems to do well. However, I don't know that much about the different properties of wood and wondered what you guys burn and why? Also, does different wood take different lengths of time to season? Do some types of wood last longer before rotting while stacked and covered? What wood gives the best coals? Thanks for the help!
Ted
OSAGE ORANGE has the highest BTU rating in all north american hardwoods
I like laurel oaks and water oaks. They tend to have straight grain and thus are easy to split by hand or with a hand operated hydraulic splitter. Live oak burns hotter, but I can't stand to kill them for any reason. If I get some of one that has to be cut down I gladly take it, but it is uneconomical for my business because of the time and effort needed to split that stuff. Its tough becaue of the fibrous, twisted grain.
You mean this stuff?:jester:
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