Can't seem to get safety chain to cut

[nomad_archer]

Here is the wheel profile. Do it look good or does it need some work and if it needs work what needs to be done.

H

 

[nomad_archer]

Unless you have a lot of chains to do why don't you stick with hand filing? Not telling you what to do just thinking out loud.
Usually when I'm done cutting I will clean up the saw(s) and sharpen the chains so its ready to go for the next time.

I don't have a lot of chains only about 7 loops. But when I started I thought a grinder would be easier to figure out than hand filing since I do not have anyone to show me. Obviously that isn't that case properly using a grinder isn't as easy as it looks. Reshaping these cutters is my first attempt at hand filing so I am interested to see how it comes out. However the grinder is bought and payed for so I am going to learn to use it properly as well. If hand filing turns out ok I may use of combination of hand filing and grinding in the future but right now I need to get one method figured out.

 

[Redoakranch]

It looks like the biggest problem is the dept of the grind. If you look at picture 4 you can see that the grind was way too deep compared to the etched guide near the back of the tooth. Its an easy mistake to do since it seems natural to get the grinding wheel to the bottom of the tooth, but its too deep.

 

[nomad_archer]

It looks like the biggest problem is the dept of the grind. If you look at picture 4 you can see that the grind was way too deep compared to the etched guide near the back of the tooth. Its an easy mistake to do since it seems natural to get the grinding wheel to the bottom of the tooth, but its too deep.

I was trying to get to the bottom of the tooth and as such buggered up the cutter pretty good. Now I see that is not the way to go about this now that I see the profile that I get using a round file.

 

[Philbert]

Here is the wheel profile. Do it look good or does it need some work . . .

Your wheel profile should be half-round.

Some .325 chain works better with a 1/8" wheel; some with a 3/16" wheel*. See which one is closer to your preferred cutter shape.

*some guys grind new chain with the larger wheel, then switch to the smaller wheel as the cutter height decreases.

Philbert

 

[redfin]

It's a Science. More accurately stated, it is Physics. Don't buy into that art ********.

The physics behind the results of a "good cutting chain is science.

The technique of the filer is the art. Some just can't duplicate what others can.

I used to shoot archery with a gentlman that was a coach for Olympic teams many moons ago. One of his adivces that stuck in my head was "practice does not make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect".

 

[nomad_archer]

Your wheel profile should be half-round.

Some .325 chain works better with a 1/8" wheel; some with a 3/16" wheel*. See which one is closer to your preferred cutter shape.

*some guys grind new chain with the larger wheel, then switch to the smaller wheel as the cutter height decreases.

Philbert

Is there an example of what this should look like? The wheel is half round "U" shaped. I was only going off the the gauge the came with the grinder. But then again I could be using that incorrectly as well.

 

[Philbert]

The wheel is half round "U" shaped.

That's what you want.

Philbert

 

[SierraWoodsman]

that chain looks like a bunch of upside down spoons like it has been rocked

+1

 

[Philip Wheelock]

...when I started I thought a grinder would be easier to figure out than hand filing ... Obviously that isn't that case properly using a grinder isn't as easy as it looks... If hand filing turns out ok I may use of combination of hand filing and grinding in the future but right now I need to get one method figured out.

I'd work on the hand filing first and save the grinder for chains that you want to revive after they've been rocked beyond all recognition. Best of both worlds.

 

[Trx250r180]

A tip if you hand file ,keep a little of the file above the top of the cutter when swiping ,having the file down in the gullet will make too much hook and not fix the top plate

 

[nomad_archer]

A tip if you hand file ,keep a little of the file above the top of the cutter when swiping ,having the file down in the gullet will make too much hook and not fix the top plate

I am using the stihl guide that rides on top of the top plate so that should be setting the file height correctly. I picked up the file guide holder today to help me get the angles more accurate then using the guide alone. I will say that it takes a while on each cutter and they are looking much much better and are much sharper to the touch. I am really looking forward to trying this chain once I am done. Then I want to learn to use the grinder so I have more methods at my disposal. I never imagined that hand filing could get the chain so sharp.

 

[Trx250r180]

you can test the sharpness of the chain with notebook paper ,if it cuts the paper nice without tearing it ,you are sharp

 

[Philbert]

I never imagined that hand filing could get the chain so sharp.

You can't understand what 'dull' is, until you have cut with a sharp chain.
You cannot appreciate what 'sharp' is, until you have cut with a dull chain.

Philbert

 

[Trx250r180]

when you graduate round this is next ...........

 

[Chris-PA]

you can test the sharpness of the chain with notebook paper ,if it cuts the paper nice without tearing it ,you are sharp

View attachment 344014

You can also use a knuckle or finger tip - a sharp chain will cut them well too!

 

[lambs]

Here is the wheel profile. Do it look good or does it need some work and if it needs work what needs to be done.

H

Note that you do not quite have the template at a right angle to the wheel in the picture. Make sure you do, then check to see if the profile actually fits the template. Also make sure that the template meets the wheel aimed right at the arbor of the wheel. In other words, don't "lean" the template on the wheel. That can be deceiving too. You can't get it perfect though. I shine a penlight through from the backside of the template to see the gaps around the wheel. That seems to help me judge it better.

Also, you mentioned using an angle finder to check the head. That will work. But if you don't already have one, you might be able to set it for 58 degrees and see how you like it, then adjust until you are getting the right amount of hook in the cutters, then mark that spot on your grinder angle scale with a sharpie.

 

[farmer steve]

I am using the stihl guide that rides on top of the top plate so that should be setting the file height correctly. I picked up the file guide holder today to help me get the angles more accurate then using the guide alone. I will say that it takes a while on each cutter and they are looking much much better and are much sharper to the touch. I am really looking forward to trying this chain once I am done. Then I want to learn to use the grinder so I have more methods at my disposal. I never imagined that hand filing could get the chain so sharp.

N. A. not to far from you over here in east berlin. i'm not the best but have been hand filing 99% of the time. pm me and see if i can help you out. another option is the PA GTG May 3 in Marysville,PA. there will be plenty of guys there that should be able to help you out. FS

 

[nk14zp]

That sharpen job doesn't look too good. I don't use a grinder, so I can't help with your technique. The top plate appears quite blunt from here. I use exclusively the cheesy little file guides from stihl, and have to be careful not to take too much Raker because my teeth are so sharp. It works the same on PM, PS3, RM1, RM3, RM, and RS for me.

All stihl owners have to be careful with rakers. Now us J-red guys snap the rakers off with a pair of vise grips.

 

[farmer steve]

It's a Science. More accurately stated, it is Physics. Don't buy into that art ********.

I like the art in your sig line B A. i knew an old russian immigrant that carried his wood home like that.i'd see him 2 miles from his house carrying wood home on his back.every body called him pappy.