Chain loosening

[Bludenz]

Cleaned bar sprocket etc today and dressed the bar. Cleaned out bar rails as well.

Put bar on, took chain out of oil and put it on, supported the tip of the bar and tensioned the chain, put on clutch cover and finished tensioning with the tip of the bar being supported. I think that this was my problem. A few test cuts and the chain was still as I set it. Previously by this time it would have been hanging down.

Will test it in the tree on Monday so hopefully it doesn't play up. Thanks again.

 

[barfer]

Cleaned bar sprocket etc today and dressed the bar. Cleaned out bar rails as well.

Put bar on, took chain out of oil and put it on, supported the tip of the bar and tensioned the chain, put on clutch cover and finished tensioning with the tip of the bar being supported. I think that this was my problem. A few test cuts and the chain was still as I set it. Previously by this time it would have been hanging down.

Will test it in the tree on Monday so hopefully it doesn't play up. Thanks again.

Woot! Yay !

 

[J D]

There is enough wear on your spur sprocket that if the chain isn’t centrally located in the wear grooves when you first tension it the chain will become loose after it rotates a few times & finds it's way into the wear marks. You may also find if you have any inconsistency in your drive links & the clutch drum has movement in & out the chain may ride in & out of those wear grooves (getting tighter & looser as it does).
The advice to clean & dress the bar is valid but as others have mentioned, the bar tip has wear around the nose sprocket that shouldn't be there & indicates an issue.
If it's working well enough now (& you're not using it a lot or concerned greatly about it's reliability) I would run it until that chain is spent & then replace the clutch drum with a rim drive type, replace the bar, & buy 3 new chains to rotate through it. When all 3 chains are done it'll probably be time to replace the rim drive & buy a few more chains.
There are likely to be Oregon kits with a bar & some chains suitable for your saw that are reasonable quality & will save you some money. Other brands are likely available too so it pays to shop around a bit

 

[Bludenz]

There is enough wear on your spur sprocket that if the chain isn’t centrally located in the wear grooves when you first tension it the chain will become loose after it rotates a few times & finds it's way into the wear marks. You may also find if you have any inconsistency in your drive links & the clutch drum has movement in & out the chain may ride in & out of those wear grooves (getting tighter & looser as it does).
The advice to clean & dress the bar is valid but as others have mentioned, the bar tip has wear around the nose sprocket that shouldn't be there & indicates an issue.
If it's working well enough now (& you're not using it a lot or concerned greatly about it's reliability) I would run it until that chain is spent & then replace the clutch drum with a rim drive type, replace the bar, & buy 3 new chains to rotate through it. When all 3 chains are done it'll probably be time to replace the rim drive & buy a few more chains.
There are likely to be Oregon kits with a bar & some chains suitable for your saw that are reasonable quality & will save you some money. Other brands are likely available too so it pays to shop around a bit

Thanks for your detailed reply. I mainly need this saw to trim up 1 tree, and then I should be fine.

Will be buying a big saw to fell trees soon, so then this saw will be basically out of action, until it is needed the next year to trim trees again. I personally can't justify the cost of 3 chains that will be rarely used, although for my big saw I will have a couple.

I'll see how it handles in the tree and then I'll see if I need anything.