Copper cooling plates.

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Stihlproincky

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Hi guys, just wanted to share an experience I've had with copper cooling plates. So I rebuilt a ms390 and a ms310 about 6 months ago, I ordered some aftermarket bucking spikes off ebay for both saws, while on the sellers page, I saw these copper cooling plates. Being something I wasn't familiar with, I thought what the heck, why not? They're advertised to help keep engine temps down, so I thought why not take a gamble. Today I was sharpening the 390 and was hearing a rattling noise, upon investigation I found it was the copper cooling plate, I was kinda shocked, like how could it have broke like that? Heat stress is all I can come up with. I did notice that both saws did seem to stay cooler vs before the cooling plates, but now I'm questioning if this is a made up scam to get some fool like me to spend $20 thinking it'll help his saws. Here's pictures of the cooling plate.20240721_160646.jpg20240721_160701.jpg20240721_161122.jpg
So maybe I got a flawed plate, or are these things just a scam?
 
Hi guys, just wanted to share an experience I've had with copper cooling plates. So I rebuilt a ms390 and a ms310 about 6 months ago, I ordered some aftermarket bucking spikes off ebay for both saws, while on the sellers page, I saw these copper cooling plates. Being something I wasn't familiar with, I thought what the heck, why not? They're advertised to help keep engine temps down, so I thought why not take a gamble. Today I was sharpening the 390 and was hearing a rattling noise, upon investigation I found it was the copper cooling plate, I was kinda shocked, like how could it have broke like that? Heat stress is all I can come up with. I did notice that both saws did seem to stay cooler vs before the cooling plates, but now I'm questioning if this is a made up scam to get some fool like me to spend $20 thinking it'll help his saws. Here's pictures of the cooling plate.View attachment 1192378View attachment 1192379View attachment 1192380
So maybe I got a flawed plate, or are these things just a scam?

Mostly scam. The objective of these "cooling plates" is not to directly cool anything but to channel airflow around the cylinder. The increased airflow does the actual cooling. Doesn't matter if it is copper, brass, or aluminum which is likely used by the OEMs for light weight and cost reasons.
 
Lightly used? Maybe, but not 'lightly' cleaned anytime recently. Myself, I'd never let my saws degrade to that point and I'd never post up a picture of them in that condition on a public viewed forum for all to see. You post a picture like that, you can fully expect negative comments, the way it works. I don't post pictures as a rule on any site and so you can take me on my word that none of my saws look like that, even my 40+ year old Stihl 028 WB. The paint might be faded from decades of use and it does wear a different bar as the old one wore out long ago, but filthy, no way.

Far as the non ferrous copper plates are concerned, all non ferrous metals (aluminum. copper, brass and alloys, all of them are prone to cracking as vibration will work harden them and while the do conduct heat well, however the negatives outweigh the positives in that particular application and I've never seen that application before, anywhere.

Far as my 'kit' is concerned, when I'm out cutting storm damage which is what I primarily do as our property is heavily treed with mostly maples and oaks and a smattering of long and short needled pines, my 'kit consists of the 'scrench, a quart non dairy creamer (empty of creamer of course bottle) filled with bar oil and another one filled with canned gas, both suitably marked with paint marker so I don't mix them up and the creamer bottles have nice, securely fitting snap lids so the don't leak plus it's much easier to fill the saw and not use a gas can or gallon bottle of bar oil which is always messy anyway, a spare loop of sharpened chain and my ever present chip brush which I always use to remove any swarf or sawdust from around the fuel and oil filler caps prior to opening them. In fact, I've NEVER replaced any in tank fuel or bar oil filters on any of my saws and that includes my 40+ year old 028 which I use a lot. If I see pitch building on the heel of the cutter teeth, I always switch loops and when I do, I always flip the bar over as well and I'll take an old expired credit card and run it down between the bar rails to remove any accumulated swarf as well. All my bars have greaseable roller noses as well and they get greased every time I put the saws away after using them, preceded by blowing them off with compressed air prior to putting them away.

My mileage may vary from others but I'm happy with my regimen and it works fine for me. You won't find any crud buildup on any of my saws, ever and of course I only run canned gas and quality bar oil. Interestingly, the 40+ year old Stihl 028 WB I own still has the original spark plug in it as do my other saws I use regularly. The air filters get cleaned often and I remove the clutch cover and clean under that as well often, however. I really like the empty and refilled non dairy creamer bottles because they have snap caps and make refueling and adding bar oil much easier and less messy. Kind of anal about keeping them clean and ready for the next time I need them and of course they live in my climate controlled machine shop with humidity controlled at 50% and temperature stabilized at 70 degrees, always but that is more for the precision machine tools I have and not the saws. Stabilized and consistent temperature as well as humidity are important when it comes to precision machine tools and precision measurement. tools. The saws just reside in that controlled environment.

Even my 2 shelf queens, the 090 and the 075 that I don't ever use are clean and well kept and basically devoid of paint chips on the cases and bars. Bought them new and even over 40 years ago, neither were a cheap date.

That all fits quite nicely in a small wooden open top container I carry with me when I'm out cutting storm damaged limbs.
 
Lightly used? Maybe, but not 'lightly' cleaned anytime recently. Myself, I'd never let my saws degrade to that point and I'd never post up a picture of them in that condition on a public viewed forum for all to see. You post a picture like that, you can fully expect negative comments, the way it works. I don't post pictures as a rule on any site and so you can take me on my word that none of my saws look like that, even my 40+ year old Stihl 028 WB. The paint might be faded from decades of use and it does wear a different bar as the old one wore out long ago, but filthy, no way.

Far as the non ferrous copper plates are concerned, all non ferrous metals (aluminum. copper, brass and alloys, all of them are prone to cracking as vibration will work harden them and while the do conduct heat well, however the negatives outweigh the positives in that particular application and I've never seen that application before, anywhere.

Far as my 'kit' is concerned, when I'm out cutting storm damage which is what I primarily do as our property is heavily treed with mostly maples and oaks and a smattering of long and short needled pines, my 'kit consists of the 'scrench, a quart non dairy creamer (empty of creamer of course bottle) filled with bar oil and another one filled with canned gas, both suitably marked with paint marker so I don't mix them up and the creamer bottles have nice, securely fitting snap lids so the don't leak plus it's much easier to fill the saw and not use a gas can or gallon bottle of bar oil which is always messy anyway, a spare loop of sharpened chain and my ever present chip brush which I always use to remove any swarf or sawdust from around the fuel and oil filler caps prior to opening them. In fact, I've NEVER replaced any in tank fuel or bar oil filters on any of my saws and that includes my 40+ year old 028 which I use a lot. If I see pitch building on the heel of the cutter teeth, I always switch loops and when I do, I always flip the bar over as well and I'll take an old expired credit card and run it down between the bar rails to remove any accumulated swarf as well. All my bars have greaseable roller noses as well and they get greased every time I put the saws away after using them, preceded by blowing them off with compressed air prior to putting them away.

My mileage may vary from others but I'm happy with my regimen and it works fine for me. You won't find any crud buildup on any of my saws, ever and of course I only run canned gas and quality bar oil. Interestingly, the 40+ year old Stihl 028 WB I own still has the original spark plug in it as do my other saws I use regularly. The air filters get cleaned often and I remove the clutch cover and clean under that as well often, however. I really like the empty and refilled non dairy creamer bottles because they have snap caps and make refueling and adding bar oil much easier and less messy. Kind of anal about keeping them clean and ready for the next time I need them and of course they live in my climate controlled machine shop with humidity controlled at 50% and temperature stabilized at 70 degrees, always but that is more for the precision machine tools I have and not the saws. Stabilized and consistent temperature as well as humidity are important when it comes to precision machine tools and precision measurement. tools. The saws just reside in that controlled environment.

Even my 2 shelf queens, the 090 and the 075 that I don't ever use are clean and well kept and basically devoid of paint chips on the cases and bars. Bought them new and even over 40 years ago, neither were a cheap date.

That all fits quite nicely in a small wooden open top container I carry with me when I'm out cutting storm damaged limbs.
I'm not reading all that.. but the saw in question has been used yes, but it's not filthy by any means.
I think if you took a look at a few loggers saws you would tip over.
 
I'm not reading all that.. but the saw in question has been used yes, but it's not filthy by any means.
I think if you took a look at a few loggers saws you would tip over.
Not germane to this discussion at all but if you think it is, I have no issue with it. Every layer of filth impedes efficient heat transfer las time I checked.
 
Not germane to this discussion at all but if you think it is, I have no issue with it. Every layer of filth impedes efficient heat transfer las time I checked.
The majority of a two strokes cooling is from the fuel. The rest mostly comes from the cylinder head...
I can assure you most professionally used saws are much dirtier than that.
What dirt is present would require the muffler to be removed to clean it out.
Have you considered that maybe your just OCD?
 
The majority of a two strokes cooling is from the fuel. The rest mostly comes from the cylinder head...
I can assure you most professionally used saws are much dirtier than that.
What dirt is present would require the muffler to be removed to clean it out.
Have you considered that maybe your just OCD?
OCD or not, I'm not about to change at this late date. Being 74, I'm set in my ways and neither you, nor anyone else will change my opinions.
 
I'm not reading all that.. but the saw in question has been used yes, but it's not filthy by any means.
I think if you took a look at a few loggers saws you would tip over.
I agree, polishing saws is for old women, real men have better things to do.
 
Not germane to this discussion at all but if you think it is, I have no issue with it. Every layer of filth impedes efficient heat transfer las time I checked.
This was not a question about saw cooling, it was a question about cooling plates and people's experience with them, as far as if they are a scam. I know and understand that built up crud does insulate the saw thus causing more heat retention, I did clean it up before I reassembled it.
 
This was not a question about saw cooling, it was a question about cooling plates and people's experience with them, as far as if they are a scam. I know and understand that built up crud does insulate the saw thus causing more heat retention, I did clean it up before I reassembled it.

Kind of is a question about saw cooling- you didnt buy a heating plate now did you?
Regardless- you forked out $20 for something no manufacturer ever added to a saw- a copper plate.
PLENTY of saw model came from the factory with aluminium plates between cylinder and muffler- but never copper.
So scam? Quite possibly.
 
Lightly used? Maybe, but not 'lightly' cleaned anytime recently. Myself, I'd never let my saws degrade to that point and I'd never post up a picture of them in that condition on a public viewed forum for all to see. You post a picture like that, you can fully expect negative comments, the way it works. I don't post pictures as a rule on any site and so you can take me on my word that none of my saws look like that, even my 40+ year old Stihl 028 WB. The paint might be faded from decades of use and it does wear a different bar as the old one wore out long ago, but filthy, no way.

Far as the non ferrous copper plates are concerned, all non ferrous metals (aluminum. copper, brass and alloys, all of them are prone to cracking as vibration will work harden them and while the do conduct heat well, however the negatives outweigh the positives in that particular application and I've never seen that application before, anywhere.

Far as my 'kit' is concerned, when I'm out cutting storm damage which is what I primarily do as our property is heavily treed with mostly maples and oaks and a smattering of long and short needled pines, my 'kit consists of the 'scrench, a quart non dairy creamer (empty of creamer of course bottle) filled with bar oil and another one filled with canned gas, both suitably marked with paint marker so I don't mix them up and the creamer bottles have nice, securely fitting snap lids so the don't leak plus it's much easier to fill the saw and not use a gas can or gallon bottle of bar oil which is always messy anyway, a spare loop of sharpened chain and my ever present chip brush which I always use to remove any swarf or sawdust from around the fuel and oil filler caps prior to opening them. In fact, I've NEVER replaced any in tank fuel or bar oil filters on any of my saws and that includes my 40+ year old 028 which I use a lot. If I see pitch building on the heel of the cutter teeth, I always switch loops and when I do, I always flip the bar over as well and I'll take an old expired credit card and run it down between the bar rails to remove any accumulated swarf as well. All my bars have greaseable roller noses as well and they get greased every time I put the saws away after using them, preceded by blowing them off with compressed air prior to putting them away.

My mileage may vary from others but I'm happy with my regimen and it works fine for me. You won't find any crud buildup on any of my saws, ever and of course I only run canned gas and quality bar oil. Interestingly, the 40+ year old Stihl 028 WB I own still has the original spark plug in it as do my other saws I use regularly. The air filters get cleaned often and I remove the clutch cover and clean under that as well often, however. I really like the empty and refilled non dairy creamer bottles because they have snap caps and make refueling and adding bar oil much easier and less messy. Kind of anal about keeping them clean and ready for the next time I need them and of course they live in my climate controlled machine shop with humidity controlled at 50% and temperature stabilized at 70 degrees, always but that is more for the precision machine tools I have and not the saws. Stabilized and consistent temperature as well as humidity are important when it comes to precision machine tools and precision measurement. tools. The saws just reside in that controlled environment.

Even my 2 shelf queens, the 090 and the 075 that I don't ever use are clean and well kept and basically devoid of paint chips on the cases and bars. Bought them new and even over 40 years ago, neither were a cheap date.

That all fits quite nicely in a small wooden open top container I carry with me when I'm out cutting storm damaged limbs.
Buddy, I'm glad you got time for all that, but you're 74 and using saws for personal use. I'm running a business professionally, all day, every day, I don't have the time to do all that, I've gotta get things done, and by the end of the day I don't have the time or energy to "polish" my saws, these are working saw, not shelf queens, they will be dirty, and that really shouldn't mean nothing to you as it will not cost you a thing if I or anyone runs a dirty saw, that's our problem.
I mean that as respectfully as possible, it sounds like you really do care for your equipment.
 
Kind of is a question about saw cooling- you didnt buy a heating plate now did you?
Regardless- you forked out $20 for something no manufacturer ever added to a saw- a copper plate.
PLENTY of saw model came from the factory with aluminium plates between cylinder and muffler- but never copper.
So scam? Quite possibly.
Yes you are correct, but I know that the plate did seem to help air flow, so it wasn't necessarily a question about the effectiveness of the plates. I was just sharing my experience for anybody that might have considered getting one, and thought we could talk through pros and cons of them, again so others can get educated on them, because I wasn't obviously.
 
Yes you are correct, but I know that the plate did seem to help air flow, so it wasn't necessarily a question about the effectiveness of the plates. I was just sharing my experience for anybody that might have considered getting one, and thought we could talk through pros and cons of them, again so others can get educated on them, because I wasn't obviously.


Okay- what about galvanic reactions in disimilar metals?
What can happen in the relarionship of aluminium and copper if placed together and used/stored in a damp or humid environment?
 
Okay- what about galvanic reactions in disimilar metals?
What can happen in the relarionship of aluminium and copper if placed together and used/stored in a damp or humid environment?
I honestly didn't think that far into it, copper and aluminum both corrode under said circumstances.
Again, I'm sure this is going to help educate people on cooling plates.
 
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