Craftsman 2.3
- Thread starter Opihi59
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It seems that the Craftsman/Poulan saws are always "on sale" at ebay. I don't think you can find a better chainsaw in the $30 range. If it had been a Stihl, Husqvarna or Echo top handle you could add more than $100 more for it and these Poulans are just as good, easier to service.
That saw looks like my old Sear's 2.3, I changed out the bar long ago to a 16" with thumb tension adjuster for the chain. Someone borrowed my saw, brought it back in the case and said thanks. Two years later I got it out to service it, to start trimming with it and found out it had no compression. I pulled the saw down and found they had burnt up the jug and piston. So now the saw sits in its case till one day I find a free good junked out one. Still have the owner's manual put up. One day she will run. :frown:
Frank Boyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a 70's Craftsman/poulan XXV 2.3 cu in and it is yellow. It has points, and no AV. I got it used from a tree guy for $25 in 1977 or so.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Searched more here at home, minus the firewall at work and found this thread you had posted up in last year. I'm linking it in for my own selfish purposes so I can find it later.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/120981.htm
I read thru it and downloaded the 2 page PDF that you linked into that thread, but still if you have a more pages I have planny room in the AOL address I PM'd you. Looks pretty straightforward to me, so I'll dig in to it more, pull the clutch assy etc. Yesterday I pulled the pump assembly--the black plastic piece--I hooked a spare hose to it and could blow thru it, but not suck back thru it so my impression is that aspect of the system is okay. I will pull the check valve but will not use pressurized air on it. In the link above you noted that this part was available and listed a PN 530069142 I am finding thru my usual sources I get these things that they are NLA, so if you know a source let me know about it.
I'll wait on further instructions and admonitions.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
She'll run sooner if you send her to me. I'll come up with the parts and add her to my pile. I can give you mailing addresses in Anderson SC and Henderson KY so you don't have to pay too much for shipping. It will be worth your while and save you time and angst if you just box it up and PM me for mailing addresses. I'm always ready to help. :msp_wink:
Sorry but my little girl will never leave me again, had her when she was born on the show room floor at Sears. :smile2:
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Modifiedmark, I got your email and thank you. Will work on this and post up more info, and pollute the forum with more of my photos. I'll likely send you some more questions so I can look smart and post up all your knowledge in this thread.
So I decided to give some stuff for the night crew to look at and took the thing apart. The clutch assembly on the 2.3 has two holes in it, they wouldn't fit my Angle grinder tool span, so I dug out a pin spanner from my kit of bike tools. Looks like this, spun off the clutch no problems.
So now we're looking at this. The small black hole above the single bar mount stud is the oiler outlet hole. And the shiny hex head is the check valve.
This is the check valve, removed.
If I put the threaded end in my mouth, I can both suck air and also blow air thru the thing. I don't believe that is how this is supposed to work. But Modifiedmark will have to help confirm. No bad jokes about the blowing/sucking thing. We're trying to fix saws here, and we're all grownups and professionals, right?
Here is the hole into the crankcase where the check valve has been removed.
And now on to a new post so I don't hit the photo limiter.
So I decided to give some stuff for the night crew to look at and took the thing apart. The clutch assembly on the 2.3 has two holes in it, they wouldn't fit my Angle grinder tool span, so I dug out a pin spanner from my kit of bike tools. Looks like this, spun off the clutch no problems.
So now we're looking at this. The small black hole above the single bar mount stud is the oiler outlet hole. And the shiny hex head is the check valve.
This is the check valve, removed.
If I put the threaded end in my mouth, I can both suck air and also blow air thru the thing. I don't believe that is how this is supposed to work. But Modifiedmark will have to help confirm. No bad jokes about the blowing/sucking thing. We're trying to fix saws here, and we're all grownups and professionals, right?
Here is the hole into the crankcase where the check valve has been removed.
And now on to a new post so I don't hit the photo limiter.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
More on the oiler mechanism
Now here is the cover over the oiler mech that sits in the oil tank. Remove the two screws....
There is a filter, oiler mech and the oil hose. The other end of the hose is the oil outlet just above the single bar stud.
So I can SUCK thru the hose connected to the oiler mechanism, but I cannot BLOW thru it. I believe I got my sucking and blowing confused in a previous thread, this is the correction. Can suck thru it, but cannot blow thru this hose.
This is the oiler hose, I just pulled it out and will put in a new hose, another bonus shot of the Hex head check valve as well. Interested if someone tells me whether or not my Hex check valve is toast.
All the wispy little hairs stuck to the stuff is compliments from Katie the Scottish Fold who donates hair equivalent to her body mass daily to everything I own, and barfs in my tool box as well. Meow.
Now here is the cover over the oiler mech that sits in the oil tank. Remove the two screws....
There is a filter, oiler mech and the oil hose. The other end of the hose is the oil outlet just above the single bar stud.
So I can SUCK thru the hose connected to the oiler mechanism, but I cannot BLOW thru it. I believe I got my sucking and blowing confused in a previous thread, this is the correction. Can suck thru it, but cannot blow thru this hose.
This is the oiler hose, I just pulled it out and will put in a new hose, another bonus shot of the Hex head check valve as well. Interested if someone tells me whether or not my Hex check valve is toast.
All the wispy little hairs stuck to the stuff is compliments from Katie the Scottish Fold who donates hair equivalent to her body mass daily to everything I own, and barfs in my tool box as well. Meow.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Parts
Anybody got a plug and a jug for sidwell's saw laying around? That's just too nice of a saw, with too good of a history to just let languish.
Anybody got a plug and a jug for sidwell's saw laying around? That's just too nice of a saw, with too good of a history to just let languish.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Updating
I read thru the Service manual, looked over the saw and the mechanism involved, and feel that my Check valve isn't working. It should be a one-way device which allows pressurization of the oil tank from the crankcase, but should not allow pressure to escape back into the crankcase. My read on the Service manual and interpretation of how this should work tells me I should only be able to blow thru the check valve--the hex head one--from the threaded end, but should not be able to suck back thru the check valve. Otherwise, why have a check valve if it isn't designed to "check" something? I have figured I need a check valve so will be looking for a source. Seems they have just run out of them on the world market though. I may be fabricating up some sorta bodge job or looking for a used one from my usual source...............AS..............
I read thru the Service manual, looked over the saw and the mechanism involved, and feel that my Check valve isn't working. It should be a one-way device which allows pressurization of the oil tank from the crankcase, but should not allow pressure to escape back into the crankcase. My read on the Service manual and interpretation of how this should work tells me I should only be able to blow thru the check valve--the hex head one--from the threaded end, but should not be able to suck back thru the check valve. Otherwise, why have a check valve if it isn't designed to "check" something? I have figured I need a check valve so will be looking for a source. Seems they have just run out of them on the world market though. I may be fabricating up some sorta bodge job or looking for a used one from my usual source...............AS..............
Have you tried to flush it out with carb cleaner and compressed air, maybe its just stuck for sitting and not being used. It may have a spring loaded check ball in it and is stuck. Can hurt to try, not much to lose at this point.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is my ignorance showing, or is that oiler set-up a lot more complicated than it needs to be?
Since when :msp_sneaky:?
Since when :msp_sneaky:?
Well its really a simple system that works of crank-case inpulse pressure, no gears or diaphram to wear out. Just have to losen oil tank cap when your'e done for the day so it stops pushing oil out.
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I learned the hard way on how the oiler worked, dumped oil all in my case, had oily gloves and files,,, that was a mess.
If you can blow and suck through the checkvalve, then it is bad and you need it replaced.
It must be as it is the simplest setup you could probably ever have.
As to your ignorance, I'll leave that one alone. (for now)
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Carb cleaner
I'll give it a try with the carb cleaner. I'm not real sure what's inside there, some sort of rubber butterfly valve, spring and a ball bearing? At any rate, will give it a trial with spraying it out, and/or soaking. May not get to it tonite, I'm stuck at work and may not make it home.
I'll give it a try with the carb cleaner. I'm not real sure what's inside there, some sort of rubber butterfly valve, spring and a ball bearing? At any rate, will give it a trial with spraying it out, and/or soaking. May not get to it tonite, I'm stuck at work and may not make it home.
Well did you get it to work, dying to know?..:msp_confused:
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