Craftsman 2.3

[Opihi59]

Just say no to carb cleaner

Well did you get it to work, dying to know?..:msp_confused:

Well..........short answer, no. :bang:

We shouldn't be using carb cleaner on these, whatever rubber duck-valve mechanism that's in there dissolves into a gooey tarry mass of booger. I suppose I'll be inventing some sort of plug for this opening in the case, then running a pulse line externally to pressurize the tank somehow. Either that, or a duct taped oil can to the blade side of the wrap handle so you can squirt it ghetto style somewhere in the vicinity of the bar/chain. I think the duct tape shows promise.

I've got parts coming in for 3 other saws, so will likely put that one aside while I grumble about my dead check valve. On a lighter note, that little saw sure runs nice.

 

[s sidewall]

Well I'm sorry to hear that, well now we knows not to flush it out with carb cleaner. I have been online looking for you a valve but no luck yet, but I will keep looking.

 

[Opihi59]

Well I'm sorry to hear that, well now we knows not to flush it out with carb cleaner. I have been online looking for you a valve but no luck yet, but I will keep looking.

I have a line on a few sources, don't burn yourself out looking. These things take time, it is a labor of love. I know I'll find one. I did get a hit on choochoo something or other parts place and ordered it, 2 days later got a refund as they did not have it, couldn't get it but still had it advertised on their webpage. Now that's annoying.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I have a line on a few sources, don't burn yourself out looking. These things take time, it is a labor of love. I know I'll find one. I did get a hit on choochoo something or other parts place and ordered it, 2 days later got a refund as they did not have it, couldn't get it but still had it advertised on their webpage. Now that's annoying.

Thats more then annoying. If the website don't list a phone # that I can call to verify stock, then they will not get a order from me ever again.

I think its a scam to ride on your credit card money for awhile. Ever see how it takes about 7 days to refund your card after a order?

I just went threw that with a order from Mowparts I think it was. Lets just say when they called to tell me they didnt have it they couldnt wait to get off the phone with me.

 

[Eccentric]

Thats more then annoying. If the website don't list a phone # that I can call to verify stock, then they will not get a order from me ever again.

I think its a scam to ride on your credit card money for awhile. Ever see how it takes about 7 days to refund your card after a order?

I just went threw that with a order from Mowparts I think it was. Lets just say when they called to tell me they didnt have it they couldnt wait to get off the phone with me.

The same damn thing happened to me three times (with three online parts houses) when I tried to order a drag link for my 1988 vintage Sears/AYP garden tractor. Showed that it was in stock, and the order went all the way through. Then a day or two later I got the "we're sorry" message and a refund. The damn part was used on a million diffferent Sears/Poulan/Husky/whatever garden tractors over a 20 year period, but NOBODY really had one in stock anymore. Ended up making my own....

 

[Chris J.]

Thats more then annoying....I just went threw that with a order from Mowparts I think it was. Lets just say when they called to tell me they didnt have it they couldnt wait to get off the phone with me.

Mark, that surprises me, I've never known you to be grumpy :msp_wink: :msp_biggrin:.

 

[s sidewall]

I know what you mean, if they got it, list it, if not they need to remove it off the listings. Make me made to go to a site showing they sale it only to find out they no longer have it. Ticks me off. :mad2:

 

[s sidewall]

CHECK OUT THIS (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/53367.htm) MAY BE A FIX :smile2:

 

[s sidewall]

CHECK OUT THIS (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/53367.htm) MAY BE A FIX :smile2:[/QUOTE Heres something I found (Parts Depot)

 

[Opihi59]

Exceptional good find there, and thanks for linking in that thread.

I had pulled off that screen when I got gummy black tarry goo flowback with the carb cleaner, and figured that all that was in there was a duck-bill valve. I Googled up duck-bill valves and found one hairy ton of options, but it is the kinda process where you need to have your hand in a bin of assorted duckbills so you can try for fit. My plan was to un crimp the end since it only appears to be aluminum, figure out a way to put in a new duckbill with or without the screen and give that a try. I am grateful you found that old thread, since there was a part number linked in for a duckbill that has already been determined to work. I'll be scouring around local places to see if they have that duckbill.

I managed to find a place in Canada that had 2 of those check valves, it was the same PN but listed as a Husqvarna part. Catch is that they will only ship within Canada, and will only accept a Canadian Credit Card. I have a friend who lives in Newfoundland though who is buying and receiving the part for me, then he will mail it to Hawaii. Remember that this little saw only cost me $36 to be on my doorstep, so I feel I have one helluvalotta leeway on buying parts and still will feel I have a cherry deal. So far I only have piddling around time in it, a carb rebuild kit, and whatever the costs for getting the check valve which will likely run around $25 or so. I feel that is still in the range of pocket lint.

Thanks for finding and linking that thread, sending you a well deserved rep bomb.

 

[Modifiedmark]

CHECK OUT THIS (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/53367.htm) MAY BE A FIX :smile2:

You know, I have one laying in the shop that I was going to tear into to see if that could be done. I suspected it could be. I never heard of someone doing that. The Poulan duckbill valves are easy and cheap to get. There only like $2 from the dealer.

 

[s sidewall]

check out this web page(http://www.superxpower.com/pages/Oe...r/2300AV_Gas_Saw/POWER_UNIT/2300AV/0648280001)

 

[s sidewall]

check out this web page(http://www.superxpower.com/pages/Oe...r/2300AV_Gas_Saw/POWER_UNIT/2300AV/0648280001)

for got about this one too (http://www.psep2.biz/pages/oemparts...r/2300AV_Gas_Saw/POWER_UNIT/2300AV/0648280001)

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The same damn thing happened to me three times (with three online parts houses) when I tried to order a drag link for my 1988 vintage Sears/AYP garden tractor. Showed that it was in stock, and the order went all the way through. Then a day or two later I got the "we're sorry" message and a refund. The damn part was used on a million diffferent Sears/Poulan/Husky/whatever garden tractors over a 20 year period, but NOBODY really had one in stock anymore. Ended up making my own....

I probably would have done that first..

 

[ZeroJunk]

I replaced the oil lines on the Poulan version of one of those a couple of weeks ago. I scratched my head trying to figure out how it works. Must be the vibration of the saw or something. Maybe if Mark gets in the mood to type he can explain it.

 

[Eccentric]

I probably would have done that first..

Yeah. The drag link on those tractors is a stupid design. It has a dogleg bend in it (to clear part of the mower deck), and non-replaceable ball ends. The link rod has sockets bored into it, and the metal was swaged around the narrow sections of the ball studs. The tie rods on the other hand are threaded at each end, and take replacement ball joints. Why they didn't do that with the drag link is a mystery to me. The swaged ball sockets in the link rod wear out over time, and eventually won't hold the ball studs in place anymore. At the time, I didn't have much free time to cob something together. Needed to get the rest of the grass cut, as fire season was approaching. Ordering a replacement was the best way to go...................except it turned out that it was NLA...

 

[s sidewall]

I got a LT2000, same tear model...94 model sears/ayp, links can be repaired if you really wanted to repair them, fixed both on my derre rx73

 

[Eccentric]

I got a LT2000, same tear model...94 model sears/ayp, links can be repaired if you really wanted to repair them, fixed both on my derre rx73

How did you repair yours? The sockets in the links get plain worn out. There is no replaceable rod end. It's all one non serviceable assembly. Not talking about the two tie rods that go between the spindles and the bellcrank at the front of the tractor. Talking about the drag link that goes from the sector gear to the bellcrank below the engine.

As a redneck 'fix', I drilled through the worn out socket and ran a a grade 8 bolt through it. Had a grade 8 flat washer on each side of that link end, and attached the bolt to the sector gear with a couple grade 8 bolts and washers. Worked fine (except for a bit of slop) until I had time to make up a propper drag link.

 

[s sidewall]

Split a hard washer to go over the neck of the ball stud and weld the washer to the link,, to hold the ball in the socket. On the deere all I had to do was steak around the socket after I pushed the ball end back in.
Just call me tight-wad . If I can fix it for free, I will. Oh, if you're a redneck you must be from Georgia too.....:

 

[Eccentric]

Split a hard washer to go over the neck of the ball stud and weld the washer to the link,, to hold the ball in the socket. On the deere all I had to do was steak around the socket after I pushed the ball end back in.
Just call me tight-wad . If I can fix it for free, I will. Oh, if you're a redneck you must be from Georgia too.....:

Hadn't thought of that one. Pretty slick. There are rednecks in northern Ca too. We ain't all city folks here on the left coast...