Craftsman 2.3

[Opihi59]

I replaced the oil lines on the Poulan version of one of those a couple of weeks ago. I scratched my head trying to figure out how it works. Must be the vibration of the saw or something. Maybe if Mark gets in the mood to type he can explain it.

The pressure from the crankcase is fed thru a one way valve (the check valve) into the oil tank. In the oil tank there is a one way valve which then feeds oil out thru the oiler line to the oiler hole, and Bob's your Uncle. Pretty straight forward. Look at my pictures and read the narrative and it will make sense.

 

[Opihi59]

check out this web page(http://www.superxpower.com/pages/Oe...r/2300AV_Gas_Saw/POWER_UNIT/2300AV/0648280001)

Part #10 on their list. I ordered one from a place like this and paid for it, then 2 days or so later got a notice they didn't have it. I'd call before ordering again, or email with them. My friend in Canada just confirmed for me that he ordered one of the 2 they have, and I suppose it'll be here by Thanksgiving..................

 

[s sidewall]

Glad to hear, let me know how it works out.

 

[Opihi59]

I put the old/bad check valve back in it, just so I could crank it up and run it. I needed to have at least a minimal feeling of success at something. Today was just not a good day in the Chainsaw perspective for me. If you're following my Roper rebuild thread, you'l prolly understand.

I did fix the Jeep though. That's points on the scoreboard.

 

[s sidewall]

A Jeep Jeep or a jeep, like the old Willys. Thats a Jeep 2 me.

 

[Opihi59]

93 Wrangler. I've built it body off. Put in a D44, rebuilt the trans, converted to external clutch slave, locker, SYE in the transfer, you name it. I like the old Willys, but have to sell the Vette prior to any more project vehicles so sez the Dragon Lady. No space in the garage for another body off build.

 

[ZeroJunk]

The pressure from the crankcase is fed thru a one way valve (the check valve) into the oil tank. In the oil tank there is a one way valve which then feeds oil out thru the oiler line to the oiler hole, and Bob's your Uncle. Pretty straight forward. Look at my pictures and read the narrative and it will make sense.

Cool. I didn't know about the valve from the crankcase. I knew it had to get pressure form somewhere.

BTW, my father heated his house with wood for several years after he retired and until my mother started complaining about it LOL.

Anyhow, all he ever used was one of those type saws. He would wear one out and go get another one. Pretty amazing the size of some of the trees he worked up with the thing.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

93 Wrangler. I've built it body off. Put in a D44, rebuilt the trans, converted to external clutch slave, locker, SYE in the transfer, you name it. I like the old Willys, but have to sell the Vette prior to any more project vehicles so sez the Dragon Lady. No space in the garage for another body off build.

Vettes don't appear to be an easy sell like they used to be. I need to sell mine but I hate to give it away just for the space. Certain models still do well, however.

 

[s sidewall]

The last Vette I worked on was a 64' with a 327, short throw shift with a dual pumper Holly. Was a trade in at my dealership, she would fly when we got done going over her. Never felt that many g's from a car, and would do almost everything that was on the speedo.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The last Vette I worked on was a 64' with a 327, short throw shift with a dual pumper Holly. Was a trade in at my dealership, she would fly when we got done going over her. Never felt that many g's from a car, and would do almost everything that was on the speedo.

Mine runs pretty well but I tried to sell in on CL and never got any calls. I was trying to get within a few k of what I had in it. It's an 85 which is one of the worst years for price.

 

[Opihi59]

Valve considerations

So I am considering a method of replacing the duck-bill valve inside the check valve. I brought home 2 small one-way valves that are in pieces of throw-away hand pump type devices from work. I thought they were small, but not small enough. I figure though I could drill out the inside of the check valve to accomodate this item, stuff it in there and then seal over the end with the wire mesh, etc. The inside of the check valve is a brass insert, the rest of the check valve is aluminum. It seems reasonable that I could use this even though it isn't duck-billed. The Homelite part number 69451 (Sten's part # 610-345) that was suggested at one point is available, but they want $13 for it at the local shop. That's just obscene so I'm not going to try that unless I can come up with one way way cheaper. Not sure I want to drill out my check valve though until I get an assortment of various valves so I can then go with what appears to be the best option. Posting this up now since I won't be able to work on the saws this weekend, I don't have any of the parts I am awaiting for my other builds, but they are inbound on the slow boat to Hawaii.

 

[DSS]

$13 is nuts for one of those little tiny duckbills. Check this out...

CHAINSAW DUCK BILL CHECK VALVE HOMELITE 69451 UP06862 | eBay

10 PACK DUCK BILL CHAIN SAW CHECK VALVES HOMELITE 69451 | eBay

I've got a few of those in the shop. I'd send you one for the price of an envelope from Canada. I thought prices were crazy around here.

 

[Opihi59]

$13 is nuts for one of those little tiny duckbills. Check this out...

CHAINSAW DUCK BILL CHECK VALVE HOMELITE 69451 UP06862 | eBay

10 PACK DUCK BILL CHAIN SAW CHECK VALVES HOMELITE 69451 | eBay

I've got a few of those in the shop. I'd send you one for the price of an envelope from Canada. I thought prices were crazy around here.

I appreciate the links you shared, I believe I'll order one or 2 from the first site so I have something to fiddle with; shouldn't have to have you ship any from Canada, though thanks for the offer on that. Things do cost a lot more here. A lot of places feel it is okay to charge 10X more than something is really worth since it would cost to ship it here in individual quantities, and take more than a week to get. There is a significant rip-off factor and so many people are just accustomed to this Paradise Tax that they just accept it and move on. I don't personally like feeling gouged, so frequently I come up with alternatives, or wait til either I make a trip to the mainland or til family comes to visit. I do have to take a pass on tons of otherwise good deals on ebay, etc since very frequently the shipping costs several times more than the product. You're likely familiar with at least some of this in trying to get things across the border into the Great White North.
I do have a new check valve coming, getting shuttle shipped in from Newfoundland, but I feel obligated to try and see if I can fabricate a replacement and post that result into this thread.

 

[s sidewall]

What ever you do, please don't drill out that vavle, you know what NA means if you catch my driff. My be a reason for that brass insert.

 

[Opihi59]

What ever you do, please don't drill out that vavle, you know what NA means if you catch my driff. My be a reason for that brass insert.

It does not appear to be a functional element of the device, the one-way part of the thing is the duckbill. I did order the Homelite duckbill from the earlier link, may have to drill the brass a bit, but likely not all the way out. I prolly won't get into that aspect of investigation until I have a replacement in my hand and won't have much to lose then since the piece would be rubbish otherwise.

 

[Modifiedmark]

All this talk got me motivated to tear into these valves to see what was what.

I found there are at least 3 different versions of these valves and have not come up with a good procedure for removing the factory crimp on the end to remove the parts inside.

It seems the duckbills are just a little different then the normal Poulan duckbills for the fuel caps and tank vents. The flange on them are a different thickness and might be a little shorter overall.

I see no good way to retain the new ones in place at this time yet, though I do have a couple ideas running.

I think when I get time and get this lathe up and running I may experiment with drill/ream the step inside the valve a little deeper, use a shorter Homelite valve and may make a tool to recrimp the end to hold the valve and spacer securely in place.

It may take some time till I can get to it but I'll let you know what I come up with.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I used my last duckbill valve so went ahead and used your link to order some more. That's not a bad price compared to others.

 

[Opihi59]

I figure that I can drill a hole thru a piece of 1/4" steel scrap, cut threads into that and tighten the check valve into that. Then I can clamp the thing in my vice and start peeling back the crimp with a small drift and hammer. Haven't messed with it further yet, but that is a plan of action at least.

 

[Opihi59]

New Checkvalve

So I got a new check valve in the mail today, but have an embarassment: how can any self-respecting CAD afflicted lunatic let himself run out of bar oil? I can't test this and give you a result, but can share photos. I may just pour in some motor oil to see it work, but may just have to wait for next weekend to get out to the shop.
New checkvalve of course on the left, it has a screwdriver slot in it for installation/removal rather than a hex head. Threads are the same, 3/8 24 NF.

And here it is installed........

This cost me $20 to get in my hand. I don't consider it a problem even though I only spent $36 on the saw. I am glad to get the part, and we'll have to see how it all turns out. To me, it's worth it. It's all about the saw...................

 

[JimMorrison]

I just installed one of these today. On a Craftsman 2300CVA. It worked, thank goodness. Finally, oil to the bar. This thread helped. Thanks.