Well, how do you feel about switching brands on them...as in your example of the 260/290 being switched to the similar performing other brands? I mean, should the question be taken for what it is, or for what you want it to be?
Do you guys think maybe
- Thread starter wood rat
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Well, how do you feel about switching brands on them...as in your example of the 260/290 being switched to the similar performing other brands? I mean, should the question be taken for what it is, or for what you want it to be?
West Texas
ArboristSite Guru
First off I think we should take the question for 'what it is' and then if we feel other considerations may be better or a good alternative, then offer that information for their benefit. As bad as I hate the 290/390 saw series, I try to be objective about answering questions about them, I try to keep my bias in check if possible, or when I do express it, I tell them I have a bias and why so. For example I've used some darn good performing 290/390 saws; but, taking a 290 apart and putting a new top end on it last year cured me of every wanting to do that again. ha!
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SawTroll
Information Collector
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Balanse for tha SawTroll!!!!! :spam:
Just kidding Nikko,,,,,
as for your question Jhellwig,,, I havent a clue,,, really!!!! :monkey: :monkey: :monkey:
I haven't a clue either - I don't like the 13" bars that are common here on 50cc saws (with small mounts) either - they make the saw rear heavy.
On the 339xp it feels just right though....
Stihl is an exception, as they use the same mount on the 024 as on the 660.
outdoortype
ArboristSite Guru
The one perfect saw theory gets us in trouble...
In my limited firewood cutting experience I just don't see how you can get by with just one saw and be efficient. I had to cut a large willow tree 20" that had fallen across a road. I used a poulan pro 40cc saw and not only did it take forever, my back was killing me from leaning over so long. Two years later, I spent about an hour limbing a White Oak (blow down). I wished like hell I had an 044 or 7900 for that willow but I would have not been able to lift a glass of water after using an 044 to limb that Oak.
In my limited firewood cutting experience I just don't see how you can get by with just one saw and be efficient. I had to cut a large willow tree 20" that had fallen across a road. I used a poulan pro 40cc saw and not only did it take forever, my back was killing me from leaning over so long. Two years later, I spent about an hour limbing a White Oak (blow down). I wished like hell I had an 044 or 7900 for that willow but I would have not been able to lift a glass of water after using an 044 to limb that Oak.
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wood rat
ArboristSite Operative
I cut 20 inch trees with a Husky 141 16 " bar all the time with my bad back, no problem -really. I have a Stihl 360 with a 24 inch bar that would be easier to cut the tree down with , but that 141 Husky is a dream to limb with and it isn't wearing me down as I work the tree into chunks.
Doing that with a Stihl 44 or 46 would be an unnecessary work out, you just don't need to be swing that much weight around - the smaller saw will do the job.
sILlogger
Addicted to ArboristSite
an 046BB is my small saw(my dad has an ms290 that i maintain so i call it mine) and an 066 and 660 are my big saws, sure i can cut the same 4 ft trees with a smaller saw, will take longer, but i could do it. but im a logger, my job is to put the trees on the ground, thats what i get paid to to, so i run a saw with the power to do it. and i actually wear myself out more running a smaller saw than i do a big one, because i have to work at it longer to get the same job done and make more movements in the process
wood rat
ArboristSite Operative
And I understand that completely. You're making money swinging that saw about.
No arguments here
