edited manually, meh...
Fresh canola oil not vegetable oil makes a huge difference under high heat conditions.
Used vegetable, used motor oil or used fryer oil is foolish especially in your oil tank on the saw.
Vegetable oil will become a polymer when heated or mixed with many other types of oil.
The mill bar oil in the hot summer vaporizing off the chain and rail isn't very tasty. Wearing a respirator in 100+ heat suck. I do avoid breathing the fumes and dust/chip by not milling on still air days. I do mill in shorts, no shoes and a Tshirt. Your still going to be covered in bits any way you look at it. Non toxic was a no brainer here.
$6.99 a gal at RK at regular price
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Good stuff. Used plenty of it myself and many others.
well, the unused oil hole will get plugged regardless of oil type, and the rails will get a slug down the middle almost instantly so?
One of the machine shops I worked at kept trying to get me to use the waste way oil out of one of the lathes its about the same stuff, but... its gone through the lathe, picked up who know how much junk, then sat in the coolant take for weeks to vacuumed out by a rotten old shop vack... I'd rather spend the money on stuff I know isn't going to jack up my oil pump and toast a bar and chain.
The cheap thing stuff doesn't do the trick if ya ask me, I cut 4-6 hours a day for the last 9+ years, only worn 1 bar out and it was a new Oregon POS.
Agreed for bucking and felling/falling.
It helps shed heavy saps and shows little wear on most of the metal bits imo.
Plus they pay for used cutting oil removal being it's under hazmat control at most commercial business places.
Oil laden with metal and who knows what for cutting or cleaning fluids that may have been added sounds like a disaster. Plus all the moisture it takes on isn't good.
Good advice up there imo.
I’ve done a fair amount of chainsaw milling. This is not where you want to skimp on bar oil. The process is hard enough on the saw, bar, chain, and operator. My 395xp was able to keep a 54” bar properly oiled when turned to max using good oil. I can’t imagine using cooking oil except for short bar scenarios.
For just oil money cost saying, agreed.
I've done a bunch of milling mostly large hardwoods. Once your actually milling very little canola oil flings off the sprocket nose.
Thinking 62 inch bar theirs lots of this style out there think people call them slabbing mills. A lot of guys use electric motors some use chainsaws some use 4 stroke engines. I need some 1/8 or 3/16 wall 2 inch square for the uprights I don’t think I have enough and I need angle iron for the track. Seeing what pops up for materials I seen some pallet racking that would have worked last year but didn’t have a use for it then.
With any oil milling my 084 needs to be in flood mode, button down, to keep the 60CSB wet all the way back to the power head and not smoking hot. All users of milling bars over 42" should be running an accessory oil feed system on the cutting side of the bar rail imho. More is better for less wear over time. Canola is none toxic and doesn't stain the wood very deep like petrol oil does.
and, for those of this thread who are NOT professionals.........you homeowners with a cheap saw, looking to trim the fat/cost at every turn........there is NO substitute for the correct guide bar oil.
For those of us who DO know about our chainsaws..... If you have ever serviced a POS that some cheap skate has run his oil changes thru, you know of what we speak.
Manual.......
Probably good advice for knobs and a newbie.
I won't touch those nasty things anymore or do general repair on a chainsaw for just that reason. The used or new veg oil mixed with who knows what and motor oil that just gums up the works and chews up the pump if not outright locking up the pump from sitting around.
I'll pass on that now days
I use old Landry soap jugs(cleaned out well of course)with the nozzle to hold my bar oil. right now theirs a mix of cheap red bar and chain oil(motomaster summer oil from Canadian tire) and whatever other small bottles I had plus about 1/8 quart of new SEA 30. When a jug runs empty I set it upside down to let the rest settle down and then throw it in the laundry soap jug.
Any container that squirts and doesn't drip is a win like plastic ketchup and honey bottles. Your real advantage is not picking up any bits off the bottom. The clear plastic squirt type is an advantage because you can see the oil and the bits that might get in it.
Drain oil makes a mess for sure along with other negative effects.
Veggie oil is even worse in the mess department and is very hard to clean up.
Well said.
You can add tacifiers (sp) to many oils cheap enough but remember most are loaded with zinc or toxins. I've used them before and found that they are not needed most times when milling.
Pro tip:
Flushing out the virgin canola oil once your done by dumping the saw oil tank, adding regular bar oil, even Supertec, then cycling it out to the chain has had zero adverse effect on any power head I've used for milling. Sometimes the chain will stiffen up if the canola is in the link pins and it gets cold like under forty degrees. I do use canola now during the cooler months by keeping it warm then adding it to a warm power head. It's around eight bucks a gallon here on the east coast of the United States and sold everywhere. Cleanups hasn't been an issue but I keep my tools clean inside and out. If your not willing to do that you deserve the damage it can cause to a stiff pump or worm drive assembly. You don't learn this stuff over night.
Someone should be along shortly to bash all that.
Enjoy
