Done with red tacky bar oil

[Husky77]

In the 80's when I was cutting, my local husqvarna/stihl dealer sold his own chain oil. One day I was there talking chain talk and wasting the day away when a lorry turned up with his oil delivery. I am talking uk sizes..... a 45gallon drum of ep90, which he would decant into one gallon containers sold as chain oil. This was sold to everyone including what was the forestry commission back then. I used many gallons of the stuff and never had any problems like excessive bar or chain ware and it was very sticky using the finger test, in fact much more than today's dedicated chain oil. I am sure ep90 oil is as good if not better than a lot of chain oils especially the many "no name" brands that seem to have popped up saying they are super tacky. EP90 is a minral gear oil I am not sure on its price these days but maybe worth looking into. It worked fine and used in the harsh forestry environment so if it wasnt any good they wouldnt have used.

 

[Gabriel1982]

In the 80's when I was cutting, my local husqvarna/stihl dealer sold his own chain oil. One day I was there talking chain talk and wasting the day away when a lorry turned up with his oil delivery. I am talking uk sizes..... a 45gallon drum of ep90, which he would decant into one gallon containers sold as chain oil. This was sold to everyone including what was the forestry commission back then. I used many gallons of the stuff and never had any problems like excessive bar or chain ware and it was very sticky using the finger test, in fact much more than today's dedicated chain oil. I am sure ep90 oil is as good if not better than a lot of chain oils especially the many "no name" brands that seem to have popped up saying they are super tacky. EP90 is a minral gear oil I am not sure on its price these days but maybe worth looking into. It worked fine and used in the harsh forestry environment so if it wasnt any good they wouldnt have used.

If its cold,like 5-10 degrees Celcius might not flow that well... But haven't used it have to admit it! I just buy decent chain oil made localy. Not much wear on bar ,sprocket or chain ,so far!
P.s. curiosity is upon me: how old are you ANYWAY?! I'm 1982 "manufactured"

 

[bwalker]

In the 80's when I was cutting, my local husqvarna/stihl dealer sold his own chain oil. One day I was there talking chain talk and wasting the day away when a lorry turned up with his oil delivery. I am talking uk sizes..... a 45gallon drum of ep90, which he would decant into one gallon containers sold as chain oil. This was sold to everyone including what was the forestry commission back then. I used many gallons of the stuff and never had any problems like excessive bar or chain ware and it was very sticky using the finger test, in fact much more than today's dedicated chain oil. I am sure ep90 oil is as good if not better than a lot of chain oils especially the many "no name" brands that seem to have popped up saying they are super tacky. EP90 is a minral gear oil I am not sure on its price these days but maybe worth looking into. It worked fine and used in the harsh forestry environment so if it wasnt any good they wouldnt have used.

I wouldn't want nasty smelling gear oil all over my saws and clothes.
I have never seen gear oil sold as bar oil either.

 

[camel2019]

In the 80's when I was cutting, my local husqvarna/stihl dealer sold his own chain oil. One day I was there talking chain talk and wasting the day away when a lorry turned up with his oil delivery. I am talking uk sizes..... a 45gallon drum of ep90, which he would decant into one gallon containers sold as chain oil. This was sold to everyone including what was the forestry commission back then. I used many gallons of the stuff and never had any problems like excessive bar or chain ware and it was very sticky using the finger test, in fact much more than today's dedicated chain oil. I am sure ep90 oil is as good if not better than a lot of chain oils especially the many "no name" brands that seem to have popped up saying they are super tacky. EP90 is a minral gear oil I am not sure on its price these days but maybe worth looking into. It worked fine and used in the harsh forestry environment so if it wasnt any good they wouldnt have used.

The don’t really sell straight up 90 weight oil anymore. would be gl1 gear oil still much needed by guys restoring old jeeps ect with bronze parts in the gear boxes also used in skillsaw worm drive saws?
Most manufacturers of saws into the 70’s listed SEA30 or SEA40 motor oil.

 

[jolj]

I have used whatever the manual stated as the correct oil.

 

[Marshy]

For cheap bar oils Walmart Supertech bar oil always worked well for me. Also used Cam2 and Poulan from Menards when it was on sale.
I have never had a bar oil not work well actually.

Walmart B&C oil is no cheaper than I can get anywhere else so I choose not to support them.

 

[bwalker]

Walmart B&C oil is no cheaper than I can get anywhere else so I choose not to support them.

When I was going through a ton of bar oil it was the cheapest around.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I wouldn't want nasty smelling gear oil all over my saws and clothes.
I have never seen gear oil sold as bar oil either.

I have supertec here and it is blood red bar oil. Yes it smells like used ATF. Another gallon put to the side smells like gear oil and might be near as thick had it not been diluted with what smells like a used motor oil mixed with gear oil. They use what they have on hand apparently.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I'll try again.
New canola oil.
You can add STP oil treatment if your looking to have a thicker mix with high zinc and more anti-sling additives but it's not needed.

 

[Marshy]

I have supertec here and it is blood red bar oil. Yes it smells like used ATF. Another gallon put to the side smells like gear oil and might be near as thick had it not been diluted with what smells like a used motor oil mixed with gear oil. They use what they have on hand apparently.

I hate red bar oil. Gets on everything and makes a red stain. I tried Echo bar oil once, never again.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I hate red bar oil. Gets on everything and makes a red stain. I tried Echo bar oil once, never again.

So your issues are with the colors?

 

[bwalker]

I have supertec here and it is blood red bar oil. Yes it smells like used ATF. Another gallon put to the side smells like gear oil and might be near as thick had it not been diluted with what smells like a used motor oil mixed with gear oil. They use what they have on hand apparently.

I've never seen Supertech that's red in color. Are you in Canada?

 

[bwalker]

I'll try again.
New canola oil.
You can add STP oil treatment if your looking to have a thicker mix with high zinc and more anti-sling additives but it's not needed.

STP isn't an anti fling additive and zinc won't do a thing for bar wear.

 

[bwalker]

I hate red bar oil. Gets on everything and makes a red stain. I tried Echo bar oil once, never again.

Never had an issue with re oil staining anything. I could care less what color bar oil is to be honest.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I've never seen Supertech that's red in color. Are you in Canada?

It came from Lawnside super Wal-Mart next to us in Cherry Hill NJ 08003

 

[Lightning Performance]

STP isn't an anti fling additive and zinc won't do a thing for bar wear.

Zinc has almost magical properties when you put it in very high friction areas. It will weld itself right to the surface of steel.

 

[bwalker]

It came from Lawnside super Wal-Mart next to us in Cherry Hill NJ 08003

Must be a recent thing. It's always been amber colored. The last Inused it was about a year ago.

 

[bwalker]

Zinc has almost magical properties when you put it in very high friction areas. It will weld itself right to the surface of steel.

ZDDP needs heat (greater than 250 degrees Celcius IIRC) and pressure to be affective.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Must be a recent thing. It's always been amber colored. The last Inused it was about a year ago.

No... i was just made from ATF. The weight is about 15 on an average day here in the summer. I save it for winter drip feed oil on the mill. Got six gallons all red a year back in the same batch for ten bucks a pop. They went up near fourteen now. Fleet motor oil changes are now available to me but I'm not sure I want that on me. In the winter it's fine if you keep it warm for mill accessory oil feed.

 

[Lightning Performance]

ZDDP needs heat (greater than 250 degrees Celcius IIRC) and pressure to be affective.

Yup
So think how hot your bars gets when it goes steel to steel. Anything left in the local area like the rail filled with dust and oil feeds the stuff right back up to the hot spot. In my experience it saved a few rails when the user makes an error such as running out of bar oil. The chain bar got hot and chain got tight not all stretched out. After it cooled down everything went back to how it was with no damage.

That old business about shorting the fuel to match the oil output works very well. When you get caught with half tanks or fuel it's best to top off the fuel and short the tank if needed then top off your bar oil. It happens with the 36 or 40 bar sometimes when you hit knots or punky wood. The usage can change a bit so it's better to have more oil in your saw than not. I've also noticed less problems in the summer on very hot days using one ounce of STP per gallon of bar oil. It seems to run cooler with less friction. Lucas oil additive changed nothing. Other brands offered no benefits either.